SLAM Confession/Question
- Thread starter DLBjr
- Start date
as someone else said, they will keep for a VERY long time, I kept most of a 21lb bucket when I found this site, I now use them when I can't attend the pool everyday, just remember to account for everything they will do to your chemistry when you use them.
Update:
Put 2 jugs in last night to bring 16FC to 20.
This morning:
FC: 18
CC: 0
pH: 7.8
Backwashed too. Had not risen by more than 20% but it has been over 2 days since I've done it.
Added 75oz of 8.25% and scrubbed the pool down. Skimmer way down so adding lots of water so I can vacuum tonight. Can finally see outline of pool drain.
What does the 2FC loss since late last night mean? It was 12FC at around 7:30 and I didn't add anything until midnight. What I added should have brought it to 20.
Put 2 jugs in last night to bring 16FC to 20.
This morning:
FC: 18
CC: 0
pH: 7.8
Backwashed too. Had not risen by more than 20% but it has been over 2 days since I've done it.
Added 75oz of 8.25% and scrubbed the pool down. Skimmer way down so adding lots of water so I can vacuum tonight. Can finally see outline of pool drain.
What does the 2FC loss since late last night mean? It was 12FC at around 7:30 and I didn't add anything until midnight. What I added should have brought it to 20.
With a sand filter, it is best to wait until the pressure rises 25%. Sand filters work better when they are a little dirty and backwashing too soon inscreases the time to filter out all of the dead algae.
The loss of 2 FC overnight and having 0 CC means that you are getting closer to killing all of the algae. Make sure that you are brushing frequently because algae has a protective film that protects it from the chlorine. You are getting to the point where you need to wait for your sand filter to remove the dead algae.
Some folks with a sand filter add a little DE powder to speed up the filtration: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/133-add-de-to-a-sand-filter
The loss of 2 FC overnight and having 0 CC means that you are getting closer to killing all of the algae. Make sure that you are brushing frequently because algae has a protective film that protects it from the chlorine. You are getting to the point where you need to wait for your sand filter to remove the dead algae.
Some folks with a sand filter add a little DE powder to speed up the filtration: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/133-add-de-to-a-sand-filter
Update:
12FC when I got home last night, so an 8FC drop.
Added enough 8.25% to get it back to 20. Getting a little clearer and I can see the drain a little more. Not green anymore.
This morning:
FC 22 (so maybe last nights FC test of 12 was off?)
pH: 7.8
I noticed patches of white staining on parts of the liner--a bleached out faded look. Never noticed it before. If I had to guess, it might be where leaves sat on the floor of the pool for months during the winter? Could it be the bleach I am adding? The patches are pretty big patches. Not a total eyesore but noticeable.
12FC when I got home last night, so an 8FC drop.
Added enough 8.25% to get it back to 20. Getting a little clearer and I can see the drain a little more. Not green anymore.
This morning:
FC 22 (so maybe last nights FC test of 12 was off?)
pH: 7.8
I noticed patches of white staining on parts of the liner--a bleached out faded look. Never noticed it before. If I had to guess, it might be where leaves sat on the floor of the pool for months during the winter? Could it be the bleach I am adding? The patches are pretty big patches. Not a total eyesore but noticeable.
Bleach is heavier than water and tends to sink when you add it. Are the light patches where you have been adding bleach? Are you adding the bleach slowly in front of a return? You might want to brush after you add bleach help mix it up faster. Do you think the stains might have been caused by the cal-hypo you were adding before you made the switch to bleach? Cal-hypo and other solid forms of chlorine can bleach a liner if it settles in one spot before dissolving. This is especially true with colder water.
Another idea is that you've overestimated the volume of your pool and which causes you to add more bleach than needed to get to slam level. You might want to double check you volume using these helpful calculators:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
I am not too familiar with vinyl liner, but you might want to add a photo of the spots. I have a painted plaster pool and leaves don't fade, but cause dark stains.
Another idea is that you've overestimated the volume of your pool and which causes you to add more bleach than needed to get to slam level. You might want to double check you volume using these helpful calculators:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
I am not too familiar with vinyl liner, but you might want to add a photo of the spots. I have a painted plaster pool and leaves don't fade, but cause dark stains.
Quick question on the cya test. Have you done it outdoors with the sun at your back yet?
If not you should do that when you have time / sun. It can make a big difference in the reading.
If not you should do that when you have time / sun. It can make a big difference in the reading.
Mostly indoor light this week but maybe one or two morning tests. Just took one in blazing sunlight to my back and it was still around 40. It gets very close for my eyes between 50 and 40, but the haze of the black dot doesn't truly disappear until 40. I did it multiple times too, with sun in front and in back; did it at waist level and right up to my eye. Ha.
- - - Updated - - -
Went back out there now, and it's less obvious. Almost like morning shadows were causing it. Hopefully a false alarm. I've been pouring slowly but will start brushing it up too. Thanks!
Good deal - go with 40. No reason to retest unless you replace copious amounts of water. ... Just remembered you added trichlor. Test in a week to confirm 40. It should be e same ... Chem geek or Dave would be the authorities on how fast cya from tri chlor should show up in the test.
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How soon after a SLAM is it safe to swim? I think I remember reading on here that you can swim up to SLAM levels.
Let's say that when I am done with the SLAM the FC is 20. Is that okay to swim in? Do I need to wait until it burns down to a certain FC before throwing the kids in?
Let's say that when I am done with the SLAM the FC is 20. Is that okay to swim in? Do I need to wait until it burns down to a certain FC before throwing the kids in?
You can swim up to SLAM level for your CYA, but don't let anyone swim if it is over SLAM level. The biggest safety issue is whether the water is too cloudy to see the swimmers underwater. Just make sure everyone rinses off when they get out. Also, use old swimsuits because they can fade a little faster at SLAM levels.
Swimming while SLAMing will increase the time it takes to finish SLAMing. Otherwise, go for it!
Swimming while SLAMing will increase the time it takes to finish SLAMing. Otherwise, go for it!
To an extent, but still much less than would happen in an unstabilized public pool.
The shallow is very clear and clean but every morning I see clumps of what I assume are dead algae. Kind if a brown color. I sweep it to the deep and the floor is clean. However, when I return in afternoon, I see the clumps again. It has a yellow/brown appearance. Rest of shallow is very clean. In fact, except for deposits in the deep which I'm waiting to vaccuum, and these clumps, the pool surface looks great. Nothing visibly growing anywhere.
Update:
I filled the pool way up and then vacuumed a good bit to waste (it almost got to bottom of skimmer). I then filled it back-up again.
Waited an hour to test, as follows:
FC: 11.5 (good bit of loss from all of the water replacement and sun?)
CC: .5
CYA: 25 (if that is a valid reading; otherwise 30) (figured all of the water drain and replace might drop it down).
Might be wrong, but I think I am now just waiting for the water to clear-up totally. Water is nice and blue now and the drain is visible. Still a little cloudy in the deep.
If my CYA is at 30, then should I adjust the FC shock target consistent with 30? I've been shocking based on a CYA of 50 throughout the week (20 FC). Have not put any bleach into today since I started the day at 22. Thinking about leaving it at 11.5 (since I'm running low on R-0871) and then testing again in the AM.
I filled the pool way up and then vacuumed a good bit to waste (it almost got to bottom of skimmer). I then filled it back-up again.
Waited an hour to test, as follows:
FC: 11.5 (good bit of loss from all of the water replacement and sun?)
CC: .5
CYA: 25 (if that is a valid reading; otherwise 30) (figured all of the water drain and replace might drop it down).
Might be wrong, but I think I am now just waiting for the water to clear-up totally. Water is nice and blue now and the drain is visible. Still a little cloudy in the deep.
If my CYA is at 30, then should I adjust the FC shock target consistent with 30? I've been shocking based on a CYA of 50 throughout the week (20 FC). Have not put any bleach into today since I started the day at 22. Thinking about leaving it at 11.5 (since I'm running low on R-0871) and then testing again in the AM.
Yes, adjust to a 30 CYA. There are really no 5's in CYA. Read the closest number. For a 30 CYA your shock level is 12, but what is .5 among friends. Test in the AM and adjust, you won't have any loss to the sun.
Keep the filter running and with a little luck the water will clear up and you will have 11+ FC
Keep the filter running and with a little luck the water will clear up and you will have 11+ FC
You should not stop the SLAM unless you lose less than 1ppm FC over night as outlined here :lookhere: Overnight FC Loss Test.
A tip on getting all the air out of the vac hose is to let the return fill the hose and push all the air out and then, while the hose is still under water, attach to the skimmer.
A tip on getting all the air out of the vac hose is to let the return fill the hose and push all the air out and then, while the hose is still under water, attach to the skimmer.
Update This Morning:
FC: 15 (I only put in enough late last night to get it to 12; second day waking up to more FC than expected; hopefully I'm doing the test right)
CC: .5
pH: 7.5
I can see the drain and one of those diving stick toys in the deep, but the deep could be more clear.
Some dead algae residue along the edges in the deep where the walls meet but the floor seems clean. Water is a dull blue (no green at all); not sparkly yet.
Hoping I can get some more R-0871 locally here in Macon.
FC: 15 (I only put in enough late last night to get it to 12; second day waking up to more FC than expected; hopefully I'm doing the test right)
CC: .5
pH: 7.5
I can see the drain and one of those diving stick toys in the deep, but the deep could be more clear.
Some dead algae residue along the edges in the deep where the walls meet but the floor seems clean. Water is a dull blue (no green at all); not sparkly yet.
Hoping I can get some more R-0871 locally here in Macon.