Rewiring a 2-speed Pump to a VS Pump

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Drb1

Drb1

Member
Jul 11, 2020
23
Buffalo New York
I currently have a 2-speed Hayward TriStar pump [SP3215EE] which is being replaced by a Hayward TriStar XE pump [SP3210X15XE]. I use my AutoPilot [7503] as the controller of the 2-speed pump. Whie the speed of the new pump will be controlled by the pump itself the power will still be running thru the AutoPilot.. I do however have a question on the wiring. The old wiring was set up on a 4-prong 230 line from the AutoPilot, green was ground, red[a] is low speed went to y on the plug, black[L1] is high speed went to x on plug, white[L2]is common power and went to w on the plug.

Now the new pump will be on a three-prong plug. Would I now wire this with both the red and black going to L1, white to L2, and ground to ground?

Thanks in advance forany and all help.
Daren
 
Why not disconnect the pump hot wires from the autopilot and run them directly into the 240V outlet?

Show us pics of how the pump wires connect in the autopilot.
 
You'll use the black and white wire (better if you can change the white to red). If the AutoPilot is set to control a 2-speed pump it has to be configured for a single speed. Use the black for one leg and the red for the other of 240v. Get rid of the white as it can be confusing to someone servicing the pump. If this is a 4-conductor "extension cord" installation, just cut it flush with the insulation. White is usually neutral. Four-wire 2-speed pump installations are one exception.

When power is sent to the new pump it starts its internal cycle. The manual tells how to set speeds. Make sure the "on" time from the AutoPilot is long enough to allow the new pump to run at the lower speeds for a long time. The built in timer has a 24-hour cycle that resets each time the power turns off and then back on.

If you send power to the new pump continuously, turn the power on at a time you want to have filtration start and let it continue using its built-in cycles. According to the manual, either way works. This is one of the few VSP that don't have to have continuous power.
 
Here are some pics, I wired this myself six years ago. I attached a four-wire whip with plug to the two-speed pump so I can unplug and bring pump inside for the winter. The plan is to attach a whip to the new pump but even though I only need three wires it will still attach to the 4-wire receptor previously installed.
 

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Drb1 said:
The plan is to attach a whip to the new pump but even though I only need three wires it will still attach to the 4-wire receptor previously installed.
Click to expand...

Identify the two 240V hot wires and ground that run through the Autopilot and connect them to the new pump through the receptor.
 
Drb1 said:
"Identify the two 240V hot wires"

Wouldn't there be three 240 hot wires? The red [low speed], the black [high speed], and the white [common power].
Click to expand...
Only two wires are hot at any one time. If wired correctly the white was always hot when the pump was energized. Whatever switched between high and low sent power to only one of the others at a time.
 
Drb1 said:
"Identify the two 240V hot wires"

Wouldn't there be three 240 hot wires? The red [low speed], the black [high speed], and the white [common power].
Click to expand...

There are two 240V hot wires from the CB.

You now have a regular 240V connection for your VS pump that connects to the two hot wires from the CB plus the ground wire.
 
Thanks all for your input. While one of my options is to get an electrician to put a new 230 outlet I think I will try to avoid that because of the cost. My old pump is on it's last legs which is why I am getting a new one. I plan on getting the pump and motor rebuilt so I have a spare.

That all being said I think my plan is to wire the the new pump with a 4-wire plug but using only 3 wires [not using either the hi or low speed power]. I was then gonna just leave the AutoPilot program with pump as is. My thinking here is to leave power from timer always on and the pump will get power from either high or low lead. Then all programing can be tru the pump itself as intended. This way after my old 2-speed is rebuilt I will have a back-up that would be pretty much plug and ply.

Now this is how I see it and not being a pro there may be a major or even minor oversight on my part. I have made big blunders before so if there is anything wrong please let me know.

I appreciate everyone's help and valve all your opinions so by all means express why or why not I shoud or shouldn't do this.

Again Thanks for all the help

Daren
 

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Drb1 said:
My thinking here is to leave power from timer always on and the pump will get power from either high or low lead. Then all programing can be tru the pump itself as intended. This way after my old 2-speed is rebuilt I will have a back-up that would be pretty much plug and ply.
Click to expand...

You can do that. Just get your wiring for the VS pump correct using 3 wires on the plug.

Only downside is you have created more points of failure and complexity when things don't work correctly. If you are the only one who ever touches your pool equipment that it may be fine.
 
Again thanks. I do have one more option and that would be to set the new pump to 115V since I already have an outlet. When I rebuilt the pools years ago I think I read 230V was much more efficient and better for the pump motor than 115v and that is why since than I have written off 115V.

Would you always use 230v or do you think 115v would work just as well.

Daren
 
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