Reuse unions????

[akenis]

Gonna replumb everything for new heat pump. The Pentair pump and filter have unions. Looks like I have 3 options:

1. Buy new union parts for the pipe end.

2. Just cut the pipe before the union and use couplers to put them back.

3. Attempt to remove pipe from unions and reuse them Saw a post about applying heat via hole saw and peeling the old pipe out.

Same for the housing on Jandy SWG. Either try to unglue the pipe from the housing, or just cut the pipe and use couplings.

Couplings seem easy way to go. But they introduce a bit of flow restriction. Negligible?

 

[midlifecrisis]

I'm not a plumbing expert but my limited knowledge on hydraulics from my firefighting days says the slip couplings are going to cause minimal friction loss at the pressure and volume we are working with here.

Athstetics is a different story. When I installed my SWCG I mis-undercalculated and needed a couple of inches and went with couplings. Functional yet less pretty.

You can get aftermarket unions on Amazon for $20 and it is a two pack. I bought for a spare.

 

[akenis]

I'm not a plumbing expert but my limited knowledge on hydraulics from my firefighting days says the slip couplings are going to cause minimal friction loss at the pressure and volume we are working with here.

Athstetics is a different story. When I installed my SWCG I mis-undercalculated and needed a couple of inches and went with couplings. Functional yet less pretty.

You can get aftermarket unions on Amazon for $20 and it is a two pack. I bought for a spare.

Need to see if I can get just the pile end of the union?

 

[akenis]

I'm not a plumbing expert but my limited knowledge on hydraulics from my firefighting days says the slip couplings are going to cause minimal friction loss at the pressure and volume we are working with here.

Athstetics is a different story. When I installed my SWCG I mis-undercalculated and needed a couple of inches and went with couplings. Functional yet less pretty.

You can get aftermarket unions on Amazon for $20 and it is a two pack. I bought for a spare.

What do you think about the SWG housing? Pretty much the same as a Jandy check valve or diverter.

 

[markayash]

I do couplers, if you do it right you can but the coupler up to the union end( if that makes sense ) so it looks like it’s made together.

 

[akenis]

Thanks. That saved some money. Forgot the reducers for the HP unions. Also used couplers glued flush to reuse SWG housing and Pentair 3 way diverter.

The old inlet plumbing is in front of the pad. Plan to reposition that to the back right corner of pad for new pump position. Gonna keep the 2 returns where they are (both just feed return jets I think).

The main inlet is gonna come off the wall at top right corner of pad (this serves the skimmer which is old school. The main drain is plumbed through the skimmer.) The other suction line, which is now in front of the pad is just a vac port on side of pool. I don't use it. Will plumb that back to the new pump inlet with 3 way.

Return from the HP.... dunno. Has to come up at some point through a check valve/flow meter, and then into SWG which will be parallel to house, and to the T'd return lines at top right corner of pad.

Lots of work. But the HP is kind of made to be on the left side of things the way the access panel and inlet/outlet are positioned.

 

[markayash]

Thanks. That saved some money. Forgot the reducers for the HP unions. Also used couplers glued flush to reuse SWG housing and Pentair 3 way diverter.

The old inlet plumbing is in front of the pad. Plan to reposition that to the back right corner of pad for new pump position. Gonna keep the 2 returns where they are (both just feed return jets I think).

The main inlet is gonna come off the wall at top right corner of pad (this serves the skimmer which is old school. The main drain is plumbed through the skimmer.) The other suction line, which is now in front of the pad is just a vac port on side of pool. I don't use it. Will plumb that back to the new pump inlet with 3 way.

Return from the HP.... dunno. Has to come up at some point through a check valve/flow meter, and then into SWG which will be parallel to house, and to the T'd return lines at top right corner of pad.

Lots of work. But the HP is kind of made to be on the left side of things the way the access panel and inlet/outlet are positioned.

You plan better than me. I just start at one and and try to end where I want it to That’s usually when I realize I need another 90 and off to HD.