Thank you! I’ll work on this in the morning Pacific time and get back to you ASAP
Resolved: Heater makes an awful igniting sound when it shouldn’t come on
- Thread starter dennisfarm
- Start date
I hear you on the user error, and I have no ego about that.
I went back and checked old videos (that I made for myself to help remember) and the jandy heater stopped respecting the intellitouch a few weeks ago.
But that makes sense to you, probably, because it wasn’t in the “remote tstat” mode, so why would it.
Like I said before I’ve never noticed the heater being in remote tstat. The only displays I’ve seen are the screens that show “gas heater is off” (like in the YouTube you had me post) and then when it’s on the water temp and set point (though I can’t swear I didn’t miss something) and all last summer and this winter I was able to easily program and control the heat via Intellitouch.
Before making changes to the comms, I changed the scheduled pump time and set up the heater as you’ve instructed to see if for any reason that would turn it on when manually asking the pump and heater to turn on doesn’t work. But no change.
I’ll work on changing the comms plugs next.
I went back and checked old videos (that I made for myself to help remember) and the jandy heater stopped respecting the intellitouch a few weeks ago.
But that makes sense to you, probably, because it wasn’t in the “remote tstat” mode, so why would it.
Like I said before I’ve never noticed the heater being in remote tstat. The only displays I’ve seen are the screens that show “gas heater is off” (like in the YouTube you had me post) and then when it’s on the water temp and set point (though I can’t swear I didn’t miss something) and all last summer and this winter I was able to easily program and control the heat via Intellitouch.
Before making changes to the comms, I changed the scheduled pump time and set up the heater as you’ve instructed to see if for any reason that would turn it on when manually asking the pump and heater to turn on doesn’t work. But no change.
I’ll work on changing the comms plugs next.
Before making the comms hardware change, I went into the iOS app to look up the history. This just feels like a programmatic issue, the way it was working and then stopped.
In this chart from the end of February and early March, we can see the heat kicking on from time to time in the bar chart as red. I had the intellitouch set at 45 degrees, and the set point on the Jandy heater at like 83 or so (couldn’t imagine ever wanting the water hotter than that). I had the pump running all day except for 1 minute at 7:59-8am, which is why we see the line in the pool pumps bar chart.
So all that looks as expected and what I’m used to seeing. And this was before the original issue of the actuator kicking open.
It’s odd to me that the spa is even showing up here, March 2-3.
Around mid March the ambient temperature was high enough that I just turned off the heat to save propane — didn’t matter if the water temp dipped below 45 because we were out of the woods on a hard freeze.
I might be over communicating but it’s just odd that this would work as expected for so long and then just not. But I’ll be happy to be wrong!
In this chart from the end of February and early March, we can see the heat kicking on from time to time in the bar chart as red. I had the intellitouch set at 45 degrees, and the set point on the Jandy heater at like 83 or so (couldn’t imagine ever wanting the water hotter than that). I had the pump running all day except for 1 minute at 7:59-8am, which is why we see the line in the pool pumps bar chart.
So all that looks as expected and what I’m used to seeing. And this was before the original issue of the actuator kicking open.
It’s odd to me that the spa is even showing up here, March 2-3.
Around mid March the ambient temperature was high enough that I just turned off the heat to save propane — didn’t matter if the water temp dipped below 45 because we were out of the woods on a hard freeze.
I might be over communicating but it’s just odd that this would work as expected for so long and then just not. But I’ll be happy to be wrong!
I think it’s valid to question, why it worked before and now it doesn’t. I don’t know the output of having it connected to spa/com. I would imagine it would work the same as pool/com but the manual specifically says to use pool/com. It should work hooked up to pool/com in rstat mode. As far as it working before, I can only speculate.
I’m psyched. Sure appreciate the help! Do I need to mark this thread as resolved somehow? Also I’ll be making a donation to the community — grateful for the support.
You can change the header if you want. I think the threads stay open. Thank you for your contribution.
@Poolbreh -- so the original issue is back or still present: when the pump is off I hear that loud clicking/switching as if something is telling the versaflow to close bypass.
We had good weekend weather so I ran the heat up to 83 degrees (from 60) and we swam on Saturday. No sounds or issues -- just the pump happily humming along and the water was at the target temp.
The switching sound is far less common now than last week but I heard it a few times last night when the pump wasn't running. The easy workaround is to just have the pump run all the time, but would that put unnecessary wear and tear on it? Is the versaflow closing the bypass another wear and tear issue? It's only a mildly annoying sound when I'm out relaxing on the patio and it seems like it's a lot less frequent (perhaps because the pool temp is now higher? no idea why that would be...) So if this is just a sound I should learn to live with and not stress about, that's an okay answer. I just don't want to ignore a symptom of a bigger issue.
Another clue or issue: when I programmed the heat to 83 from the Intellitouch, it the heater would only click on to heat the pool if the pump was already running as per the schedule. It seems like even if the pump isn't scheduled to run, if the pool temp drops below target, the system should start up and get the water up to temp and then shut down.
Maybe this is an intellitouch issue (which I think is a different sub forum if I should post there, just lmk)?
We had good weekend weather so I ran the heat up to 83 degrees (from 60) and we swam on Saturday. No sounds or issues -- just the pump happily humming along and the water was at the target temp.
The switching sound is far less common now than last week but I heard it a few times last night when the pump wasn't running. The easy workaround is to just have the pump run all the time, but would that put unnecessary wear and tear on it? Is the versaflow closing the bypass another wear and tear issue? It's only a mildly annoying sound when I'm out relaxing on the patio and it seems like it's a lot less frequent (perhaps because the pool temp is now higher? no idea why that would be...) So if this is just a sound I should learn to live with and not stress about, that's an okay answer. I just don't want to ignore a symptom of a bigger issue.
Another clue or issue: when I programmed the heat to 83 from the Intellitouch, it the heater would only click on to heat the pool if the pump was already running as per the schedule. It seems like even if the pump isn't scheduled to run, if the pool temp drops below target, the system should start up and get the water up to temp and then shut down.
Maybe this is an intellitouch issue (which I think is a different sub forum if I should post there, just lmk)?
No, plenty of members run their pool 24hrs a day.
This is how it was designed. The heater is bound to the pool feature in the easytouch. The easytouch reads the temperature, checks if the desired temperature is higher than the pool water, connects the 2 low voltage wires together through a dry relay on the easytouch board, which turns the heater on(first closing bypass).
If the you are hearing the bypass close without the pump on, there is something wrong with the low voltage, dry relay on easytouch, or heater board.
If you want to look further into, I would make sure the low voltage is in good shape, no rodent chew marks etc. you can check the continuity of the low voltage and dry relay by removing the 2 wires from the heater and see if the dry relay opens and closes by turning on and off pool feature with the heater enabled from easytouch. We have had a few posts of members running these tests and I believe the jandy jxi boards may be causing the short. We won’t know until the issue is logged or jandy sends out some kind of notice.