Replacing SWG flow sensor - matching wires

[JamieP]

Hello,

I'm troubleshooting a persistent 0 salt reading on my Pentair IC-60 by attempting to replace the flow sensor following instructions on this site. However, my non-Pentair sensor has 4 wires instead of the 3 that are original to the unit. Could someone please advise how I am to match these up? Photo included. Thank you!

 

[Jimrahbe]

Jamie,

You can use a 3-wire switch on a 4 wire cell, but you can't use a 4-wire switch on a 3 wire cell..

Sorry,

Jim R.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Replacement IC-40 flow, temp sensor with aftermarket

Has anybody tried Optimum Pool Technologies for replacement sensors? They are at least half off original parts.

www.troublefreepool.com

Hope it helps

 

[JamieP]

Jamie,

You can use a 3-wire switch on a 4 wire cell, but you can't use a 4-wire switch on a 3 wire cell..

Sorry,

Jim R.

Darn! Thank you for that information, though, Jim. I had this sensor on hand from a while back. I'm not sure why I bought it but I never used it.

I'm not sure if I would be able to tell how many wires the next one has if I were to buy another one. Unless I bought original Pentair. I'd rather not spend the extra money on Pentair if I can help it since I have a back up cell to use if I need it (I got it after a warranty claim but I'd really rather not use it because the cell should still work!) What would you do?

 

[JamieP]

Great news!!

I'm not sure exactly what's going on, but I re-installed the salt cell just to get my pump running again. The original sensor wire has been cut so my salt cell shows zero flow as would be expected. The salt level is flashing between green and red. Through my drop test I know my salt is at 3200. The output for the Cell is set to 100% and I am actually getting bubbles from my returns! ScreenLogic still says zero salt, but if I am producing chlorine, then I'm a happy camper! So, as it stands now I'll leave it like this and see how long I can be operational on my current cell.

Thank you for your help!

 

[Jimrahbe]

Jamie,

When the salt reading is Zero... it really has nothing to do with the actual salt level, it has to do with glitch in how long it takes for the cell to tell the EasyTouch what the salt level is.. When the EasyTouch does not see the reported level at the right time, it reports zero..

As long as your cell shows a green salt level, then the cell knows what the salt level is and should work fine.. Often replacing the flow switch 'fixes' the problem, but replacing almost anything in the SWCG system has fixed the problem and replacing the flow switch does not always fix the issue.

As a note... When the cell is in the cold water mode, it will also report zero salt then, but that is normal..

The flashing red and green lights should happen every time you power up the cell, as this is when the cell measures the salt level. It also does this every 12 hours after power up.

Edit.. Another problem, this time of year, is the water temp.. anytime the water temp is below about 65 degrees, the accuracy of the reported salt reading is often way off.. The problem is that the cell works off of what it 'thinks' the salt level is, not what the actual salt level is..

Glad it is working for you.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamieP]

Jamie,

When the salt reading is Zero... it really has nothing to do with the actual salt level, it has to do with glitch in how long it takes for the cell to tell the EasyTouch what the salt level is.. When the EasyTouch does not see the reported level at the right time, it reports zero..

As long as your cell shows a green salt level, then the cell knows what the salt level is and should work fine.. Often replacing the flow switch 'fixes' the problem, but replacing almost anything in the SWCG system has fixed the problem and replacing the flow switch does not always fix the issue.

As a note... When the cell is in the cold water mode, it will also report zero salt then, but that is normal..

The flashing red and green lights should happen every time you power up the cell, as this is when the cell measures the salt level. It also does this every 12 hours after power up.

Edit.. Another problem, this time of year, is the water temp.. anytime the water temp is below about 65 degrees, the accuracy of the reported salt reading is often way off.. The problem is that the cell works off of what it 'thinks' the salt level is, not what the actual salt level is..

Glad it is working for you.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks for that explanation, Jim. My current water temperature is 62. I'll be interested to know if the flashing salt reading goes away when it gets a little warmer. Interestingly, the ScreenLogic still says my salt is zero. But as long as I'm getting bubbles, I'm OK with that!

 

[JamieP]

I should add that Screenlogic no longer gives me a low salt reading even though it is saying this all to zero. That's probably why the Cell is making chlorine when it wasn't before with the low-salt error showing up.

 

[JamieP]

Update: This morning my weather and water temperature were the same as yesterday but the SWG is no longer creating chlorine. I shut off the breakers for several minutes and restarted the system. Bubbles temporally appeared again but then disappeared. I did this twice with the same results. So it seems that there is a communication problem, since the Cell is obviously capable of creating chlorine.

As a reminder, I currently have a non-functional flow sensor installed since I cut the wire intending to replace it. I do have a new cell as back up, but this one is not very old and I'd like to keep it going if I can. Am I out of luck? Thank you for any further insight you can offer.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Jamie,

Something is not right in what I think you are saying.. Here are a few rules about your SWCG..

Nothing will work, if the flow switch is not closed.. Nothing.

Without flow, the salt test will never pass.

If the cell 'thinks' there is very low salt, the cell will not work.

My suggestion would be to get a new 3-wire flow switch and then get your old cell running.. Once it fails, keep the new flow switch as a spare.

You could just install the new cell now, so that you are up and running, and then get the old cell repaired and install it..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamieP]

Jamie,

Something is not right in what I think you are saying.. Here are a few rules about your SWCG..

Nothing will work, if the flow switch is not closed.. Nothing.

Without flow, the salt test will never pass.

If the cell 'thinks' there is very low salt, the cell will not work.

My suggestion would be to get a new 3-wire flow switch and then get your old cell running.. Once it fails, keep the new flow switch as a spare.

You could just install the new cell now, so that you are up and running, and then get the old cell repaired and install it..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hi Jim. I think that's a good idea about getting a new 3-wire switch to try to fix this cell but using my spare cell in the meantime.

I was also confused about why I was getting chlorine production all day yesterday even though my cell had the red no flow light illuminated. Obviously I have flow, but the cell doesn't know it if the wire is cut and the light is on.

With the Cell turned on, both yesterday and today, I am having the red and green lights flashing alternately on the salt level. My last saw test not long ago was 3200 and I just added another bag so I should be close to 3400 now. Is the constant alternating flashing because it thinks I have low salt or because I can't take or salt reading if it thinks there's no flow? I know it does this at start up. My ScreenLogic still shows 0 ppm for the Intellichlor which it also showed yesterday when I was getting bubbles all day.

Finally, I seem to have a new problem and I wonder if it's all related. I came out to the equipment to describe what was happening and spontaneously my pump lost communication with my ScreenLogic. I assume it's also lost communication with the EasyTouch control panel because turning it on at the panel does not do anything. So currently, the pump won't run.

Thanks for any advice and helping me resolve this new problem!

 

[JamieP]

Pump Communication is established again and pump is up and running. Strange for that to happen, though.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Jamie,

First... the Zero salt display is not really a salinity problem at all.. It is just a system error and has nothing to do with the actual salt level in the water.

Second... When you initially turn on the SWCG, you will see the flashing "railroad crossing' lights as the system tests for salt... this can take up to five minutes.. I do not know if this just goes on forever, if there is no flow or no salt.. But normally, the flashing lights stop when the salt level is measured and you either get a green (Good) salt light or a low (Red) salt light..

If I were in your shoes, I'd install the new cell and see if everything works like it should. Actually, if I were in your shoes, my feet would hurt..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamieP]

Jamie,

First... the Zero salt display is not really a salinity problem at all.. It is just a system error and has nothing to do with the actual salt level in the water.

Second... When you initially turn on the SWCG, you will see the flashing "railroad crossing' lights as the system tests for salt... this can take up to five minutes.. I do not know if this just goes on forever, if there is no flow or no salt.. But normally, the flashing lights stop when the salt level is measured and you either get a green (Good) salt light or a low (Red) salt light..

If I were in your shoes, I'd install the new cell and see if everything works like it should. Actually, if I were in your shoes, my feet would hurt..

Thanks,

Jim R.

My new cell is installed and running. The initial salt reading is spot on as well. I'll see if I can track down a three-wire flow sensor without spending an arm and a leg and try to get the old Cell running again too. Thank you again for your help, Jim!