replacing mechanical timer with digital timer

Jump to latest Follow Reply
C

crackers8199

Bronze Supporter
Jun 5, 2014
288
Lake Elsinore, CA

Attachments

  • 280514902_2025253137657312_867281618452339177_n.jpg
    280514902_2025253137657312_867281618452339177_n.jpg
    408 KB · Views: 31
Poolbreh said:
We would need exact timer model. Just curious why the change? It looks like you have maybe a heater.
Click to expand...

where can i find the exact model number? i don't see any markings on the timer itself. i do have a heater, but the timer only controls the salt cell.

as for the reason, i'm just looking to upgrade it to something that's easier to make changes on. i'm sick of the stupid little trippers falling off, want something electronic.
 
Without further details about where each wire goes we can only assume. Line is vs pump and maybe heater is on a breaker? Swg is load side of timer? We would need the exact model of timer you are planning on installing instead of “something like this” wiring diagrams differ so to be precise, precise information is needed. The tags don’t usually fall off intermatic timers if they are tightened enough they are usually really reliable.
 
Poolbreh said:
Without further details about where each wire goes we can only assume. Line is vs pump and maybe heater is on a breaker? Swg is load side of timer? We would need the exact model of timer you are planning on installing instead of “something like this” wiring diagrams differ so to be precise, precise information is needed. The tags don’t usually fall off intermatic timers if they are tightened enough they are usually really reliable.
Click to expand...

as far as i know, the double pole breaker is pump / salt cell / heater. single pole breaker is just the lights and GFCI outlets.

the trippers are fine if i go get a set of pliers and tighten the Darn out of them, yes...i'm sick of having to do that every time i want to make any changes. it's so much easier to just program a digital timer.

the only thing that is controlled by the timer switch is the salt cell. the pump has its own schedule, and the heater isn't automated at all.

i'll try to find the exact timer model.
 
Poolbreh said:
We would only need the model of the digital timer you are planning on using. If the link is exact I’m sure we can look it up. But the wording was “something like this” so it seemed undetermined.
Click to expand...

i'm not sure which model of digital timer i'd need, that's what the "something like this" was for. was hoping someone would chime in and let me know exactly which model i need along with the wiring schematic. to be honest, i wasn't even aware there were multiple mechanical timer models until you brought it up...
 
The timer model should be printed on the back of the mechanism. Take a look at this link for directions on how to remove the mechanism. Confirm that power is off before handling the timer.

How to Replace an Intermatic T104 Mechanism - INYOPools.com

The following steps show you how to replace the T104 Mechanism.
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

It does look like a T-104 wired for 240 volts. Line voltage from the breaker goes to Terminals 1 and 3 and are always hot. The second set of wires connected to these terminals go the pump which receives constant power. Terminals 2 and 4 are load and are controlled by the timer. Your SWG (set up for 240 volts) should be connected to these terminals. Each component should have a green ground wire. Try to trace it to the wires back to the breaker and components to which they are connected to confirm.

It is a good idea to set up the swg on a timer that will resync time after power outages. There are non-wifi digital timers that would work for that, as shown in your link, or Wi-Fi devices that you could control with an app. Any idea which direction you want to go?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Poolbreh

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
The timer model should be printed on the back of the mechanism. Take a look at this link for directions on how to remove the mechanism. Confirm that power is off before handling the timer.

How to Replace an Intermatic T104 Mechanism - INYOPools.com

The following steps show you how to replace the T104 Mechanism.
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

It does look like a T-104 wired for 240 volts. Line voltage from the breaker goes to Terminals 1 and 3 and are always hot. The second set of wires connected to these terminals go the pump which receives constant power. Terminals 2 and 4 are load and are controlled by the timer. Your SWG (set up for 240 volts) should be connected to these terminals. Each component should have a green ground wire. Try to trace it to the wires back to the breaker and components to which they are connected to confirm.

It is a good idea to set up the swg on a timer that will resync time after power outages. There are non-wifi digital timers that would work for that, as shown in your link, or Wi-Fi devices that you could control with an app. Any idea which direction you want to go?
Click to expand...

i'm fine with anything i can more easily make changes on than the stupid little trippers that fall off unless i get pliers out and tighten the Crud out of them...not to mention that if there's ever a need to reset the clock (either power outage or DST), it's impossible to get it to match the pump's time exactly.

my ideal endgame is to eventually go to the intellicenter at some point, but i don't know when i will ever get the time / funds set aside to get that done...so i figure this is a good intermediate step. i'm fine with just a digital timer (non-wifi) like the one i linked to, as long as it'll work...but if there's a good and decently priced wifi version, i'm open to that too.
 
crackers8199 said:
my ideal endgame is to eventually go to the intellicenter at some point,
Click to expand...
Consider first keeping the mechanical timer in place. I used pliers to tighten the dogs to keep them in place. Save your money for future automation. Just make sure you're vigilant about checking to make sure it's keeping time and that the trippers are in place.

The digital Intermatic timer will work, but $164 is a good hit on your automation fund. I don't know how to wire it, but I'm sure you'll find help when the time comes. It should drop in place where the mechanical timer is located. It has a battery back-up which should keep time in-sync with the pump.

Check out link below for a $14 option. The Sonoff Basic R3 has worked flawlessly for me. Two wires in from 240 volt power and two wires out to the SWG. If you have a good Wi-Fi signal at the pad, you should be able to mount it inside box next to the mechanical timer. If you have a weak signal in the box, you'll need to add a plastic weather proof box outside or you metal box. It connects to the EweLink app which performs well, and integrates with Alexa, Google Home, and Smart Things. It automatically syncs to real time when power is restored.

Low Budget DIY Automation

When we built the pool, I decided against full automation for a variety of reasons including cost, the proprietary nature of available devices, and the fear an expensive system would quickly become obsolete and unsupported. I've seen a few forums members using Raspberry PI and Arduino...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Other options include stand-alone Wi-Fi smart boxes like the Dewenwils Pool Pump Timer. I used one of these for a waterfall pump and now use it for my spa blower. The app is a bit clunky, but it hasn't failed me in 4 years. The Suraielec Timer is another option. I haven't used this box.

Now that your head is spinning...what do you think?
 
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
The digital Intermatic timer will work, but $164 is a good hit on your automation fund.
Click to expand...

my thought process was that i can probably get some of that money back once i go to the intellicenter, which is why i was considering it. i don't know that i'll get the intellicenter this summer or even next summer, might be a few years down the road unfortunately...so many projects higher up on the list.

the sonoff is an interesting thought in that i have a home assistant install already up and running, and could manage it through that rather than using another app. i wish there was a way to get the pump and valves automated from HA without spending a fortune, if there were i'd probably go that route rather than even bothering with the intellicenter.
 
Check out the low-budget automation link in my signature. The valves are relatively easy. The VS pump would require a Pentair IntelliComm interface between the relays and the pump. Cost on that unit is about $260.
 
Yes. I used a Sonoff th16 with probe connected to 120 volts. The switch passes power through to the relay side, so I used a dry contact relay between the sonoff switch and the fireman's switch in the heater.

The [Sonoff] switch itself costs about $36 on Amazon. It's currently out of stock and the only way to get it now is from China. I suspect it will come back up on Amazon.

Here's a screenshot of my ewelink dashboard. I generally use Alexa routines to control scheduled actions.

1653260288320.png
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: crackers8199 and Poolbreh
Here's a recent discussion on the temperature sensor. It'll save me some typing.

Wifi Water Temperature Sensor

I am looking to add a WIFI pool water sensor so I can remotely check my water temp from my iPhone... Doing research... it looks like I can use a Sonoff TH16 and a ds18b20 sensor plumed into my system to achieve this... I am not looking to do any type of automation... just read water temp... I...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
  • Like
Reactions: crackers8199
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Here's a recent discussion on the temperature sensor. It'll save me some typing.

Wifi Water Temperature Sensor

I am looking to add a WIFI pool water sensor so I can remotely check my water temp from my iPhone... Doing research... it looks like I can use a Sonoff TH16 and a ds18b20 sensor plumed into my system to achieve this... I am not looking to do any type of automation... just read water temp... I...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...

do you just turn the heater on/off based on what the sensor says (effectively not using the sensor on the heater itself)?
 
crackers8199 said:
do you just turn the heater on/off based on what the sensor says (effectively not using the sensor on the heater itself)?
Click to expand...
You can turn the heater on/off manually. The heater is set to max heat (104 degrees). The switch has the ability to turn the heater on/off a few different ways. When the switch is turned on, the heater turns on and gets a call to heat to 104. It'll keep going to 104 until the Sonoff switch is turned off.

You can set the switch to auto mode. You set min/temp to turn heater on and and max/temp to turn off during a scheduled time. It only allows one auto setting to be saved, so it's a bit inconvenient if you want separate pool and spa settings. Here's a screen shot of the set-up screen.

1653266815651.png

There is also a schedule setting which ignores temp and only runs during programmed days/times. This works, but you'd want to set the heater temp (on the heater panel) to your desired temp as opposed to full heat. The heater would operate just as it would without the smart switch within the programmed time.

Other options I don't use are a standard countdown timer and a loop timer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: crackers8199

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply