I need to replace a 2" suction valve, and for one thing, I can't find a matching one being sold (Colonial III seems to be the model/series, white pvc, probably cheap), and another issue is that our valves seem susceptible to jamming up. We have a sand beach close by and lots of it ends up in the pool, so I'm assuming lots of sand being vacuumed is the root of the jamming issue. Is anyone familiar with a valve designed to facilitate easy disassembly and cleaning? Bear with me, I'm new to pools, got conscripted into taking care of the subdivision pool. Thx, Bill
recommendation for brand of suction valves
- Thread starter AMHOA
- Start date
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,242
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
Post a picture or two of these suction valves?
If they are either 2-way or 3-way valves to either isolate or divert water flow, look into the Jandy Never-Lube valves.
Post a picture or two of these suction valves?
If they are either 2-way or 3-way valves to either isolate or divert water flow, look into the Jandy Never-Lube valves.
a couple pics showing model #'s, etc. I'd prefer to replace parts and leave the valve body in place, but I haven't found anyone selling this brand and style. A found a catalog of Colonial valves, but there is nothing shown like these, and it may not even be the same company. I'm not crazy about the existing ones here regarding how often they need to be opened up for maintenance.Welcome to TFP!
Post a picture or two of these suction valves?
If they are either 2-way or 3-way valves to either isolate or divert water flow, look into the Jandy Never-Lube valves.
Attachments
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,242
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Honestly, those ball valves and other like them are junk.
I'd replace them all with Jandy 2-way valves. The Jandy valves are rebuildable. I'm on my original Jandy valves - installed in 1999 and they are in the Arizona sun. The only thing i've done to them is replace the lid and shaft O-rings.
I'd replace them all with Jandy 2-way valves. The Jandy valves are rebuildable. I'm on my original Jandy valves - installed in 1999 and they are in the Arizona sun. The only thing i've done to them is replace the lid and shaft O-rings.
In Jandy's catalog, I don't see anything but ball valves with unions, which I need to assemble the manifold. Jandy literature says ball valve seals can be replaced without special tools,
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,242
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The MARK III TYPE replaces older versions of the White SUBV.
The numeral III appears on the handle after the Colonial Name.
The part numbers in this series remains unchanged.
The numeral III appears on the handle after the Colonial Name.
The part numbers in this series remains unchanged.
Don't get ball valves of any brand. Short-lived. Jandy 2-way is likely your best bet.
Thanks, James, that appears to be a supercede/equiv of what I have now. Some of the parts may be interchangeable (I'll check parts availability Monday). If I could get a stem for my existing valve, I'd just redo that, and not need to modify the piping. I'd rather use a Jandy 2way, but they don't appear to have one with a union. If I must change out the whole valve body, I have room for a repair coupling, but probably not for a separate union, thus nixing the option to replace just the one valve with a Jandy 2way. I may need to think about replacing all four.
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do you know how well the Jandy's tolerate sand? We have a beach nearby so a lot of sand is vacuumed, which I feel accounts for problems with our ball valves.
You should never vacuum sand into your system.
You should use a skimmer sock in the skimmer basket to catch the sand.
You should use a skimmer sock in the skimmer basket to catch the sand.
2" Socket PVC Single Union Ball Valve | U.S. Plastic Corp.
Single Union Ball Valves are an economically priced solution for irrigation, water treatment, pool/spa, and commercial plumbing applicati...
POOL360 - BALL VALVE 2" SUBV PVC/EPDM SxS WHITE
BALL VALVE 2" SUBV PVC/EPDM SxS WHITE
pool360.poolcorp.com
Features a blocked seat carrier, to prevent blowout if union nut is removed while valve is under pressure in the closed position.
Carrier is also adjustable for seat-wear.
Seat carrier is threaded into the body.
The handle can be removed and used as a spanner wrench to tighten the carrier to adjust for seat wear.
It can also be used to unthread the carrier to disassemble the valve.
Thanks, James. I had no experience at all with pools and was thrown into the situation where I got minimal training from my predecessors (who I now see were untrained themselves). I've learned quite a lot already from this one thread and have a plan for the short term, at least. Thanks a lot. Bill
I ordered the 2" V20131W valve and as it turns out, my existing ones (pics in my top posting) are identical. The curious thing is that the physical numbers on the product have no resemblance at all to any catalog part numbers. One must wonder if introducing confusion is intentional. LOL My next challenge will be removing the seat carrier on the existing valve so I can replace the stem, if that's possible. Tried it on a new valve with the plastic handle, and I don't think that will pop it loose.
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The seat carrier is threaded and you use the handle to unscrew the seat carrier.
Can you show the seat carrier?
It should have a spot for the handle to lock in so that you can unscrew the seat carrier and remove the parts.
This is not the exact same valve, but it is basically the same.
You can see that the seat carrier is threaded and it has notches where the handle top tabs will fit in so that the part can unscrew.
Use the handle as a wrench to unscrew the seat carrier.
You can see that the seat carrier is threaded and it has notches where the handle top tabs will fit in so that the part can unscrew.
Use the handle as a wrench to unscrew the seat carrier.
I will be trying to repair previously installed valves, but I bought a new one and am trying out the disassembly procedure on it. The blue handle engages the pockets on the seat just fine, but we've managed to put maybe 50 lb-ft of torque on the blue handle and nothing budges. I'm assuming the seat has ordinary right hand threading. I'll probably need to craft some kind of cheater bar to go over the blue handle, but I'm concerned that the lugs on the handle will shear off, or worse yet, the pockets in the seat will be gouged out, in which case it would be impossible to do maintenance on the valve.
