I also battled the continuous pool problems until I found this forum. The methods advocated here work well and will save you a ton of money! Keep up with the chlorine, brush, brush, brush and your pool will be clear in no time. :-D
The only thing I have to add is don't make adjustments to your pH or CYA at this point. Cloudy/murky water will affect the accuracy of the CYA test (false high) so don't be surprised if your CYA level is actually lower than the PS test. High levels of chlorine will bleach out the pH reagent.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
The only thing I have to add is don't make adjustments to your pH or CYA at this point. Cloudy/murky water will affect the accuracy of the CYA test (false high) so don't be surprised if your CYA level is actually lower than the PS test. High levels of chlorine will bleach out the pH reagent.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Hmmmm ..... interesting ! But I bet you if you went in there with a water sample and told them your pool was green they would sure sell you some of that crummy powdered shock they use .... 
Please get the TF-100 test kit. It has everything you need. I just re-ordered the CYA tester cause I ran out keeping everything up to date. From what I have learned, test strip are generally not as accurate as testing with chemicals (did I mention, get the TF-100 :lol: ).
As I try to get rid of my algae, it is critical to check my readings for chlorine along the way to keep the levels high. Shocking one time may not do it. You will need to follow directions on getting rid of certain algae by monitoring chlorine. Search for algae. Lots of good posts.
I started to work on mine this morning and I started to see a difference already thats to the help of these guys.
As I try to get rid of my algae, it is critical to check my readings for chlorine along the way to keep the levels high. Shocking one time may not do it. You will need to follow directions on getting rid of certain algae by monitoring chlorine. Search for algae. Lots of good posts.
I started to work on mine this morning and I started to see a difference already thats to the help of these guys.
I will be ordering my test kit today.
An interesting note: I stopped by a local small PS to see what they might have for test kits. The man (kid) behind the counter showed me what he had (the same kit I have) and I told him it did not go up high enough for the FC. He asked what I had to go to and I said 20. He said there was no reason to ever go that high in a pool. He said I didn't have an algae problem since algae won't survive above a 3.0. He said I either had a metals problem or a filter problem.
I walked out...
An interesting note: I stopped by a local small PS to see what they might have for test kits. The man (kid) behind the counter showed me what he had (the same kit I have) and I told him it did not go up high enough for the FC. He asked what I had to go to and I said 20. He said there was no reason to ever go that high in a pool. He said I didn't have an algae problem since algae won't survive above a 3.0. He said I either had a metals problem or a filter problem.
I walked out...
The Leslie's around here uses a Taylor total DPD test kit - but not the FAS-DPD. I think a high chlorine level does throw off some tests, like the Ph. The CYA test reads okay, even if the chlorine level is high, though.Edge said:
Hi Edge last week my pool was greener than the picture i see here . Frustratedmom ,a member here helped me to clear my pool .Edge said:
these people here know what they are talking about so listen to them . you work 12hours a day so you dont have time to brush your pool . iam in the same shoe , here what i suggest get some one to brush your pool twice a day. ,add the bleach at night and run your pump 24/7 for now , get your water sample to Lesli`s and get them to tell ya what the CYA is . do not put anything in your pool . only bleach , use the pool calculator on this site ,go to pool school on top of the home page and see what you need to bring your FC=free Chlorine to shock level. i bet your shock level is 20ppm. I tell ya brush the entire pool twice a day ,it worked for me my water today was so clear i could see a dime 7 feet deep. do not give up it will turn light green then light yellow and green then cloudy blue and then clear just add bleach regular store brand
once you find out what your cya is then backwash filter once per day for 2 minutes . the other thing is AQUACHECK has the strips that checks the CYA plus six other things , if you do not have the TF100 kit , it will help for now . good luck any questions just post it and one of these good people will help you , you are not alone
My TF100 is waiting on my doorstep for me to get home and get to work on the swamp. I will post my numbers on the forum when I get them.
FINALLY! I have some real readings to report and I am not happy about them.
FC - 0
pH - 8.0
TA - 80
CH - 160
CYA - 100+
The high CYA readings were double tested and you can bet that I am steamed, mostly at myself. I let myself be talked into adding a bunch of conditioner this year at the PS instead of holding my ground whenI didn't think it was right. :grrrr:
I am assuming that unless I get my CYA levels down, I am going to be facing a losing battle with the chlorine. Am I correct?
FC - 0
pH - 8.0
TA - 80
CH - 160
CYA - 100+
The high CYA readings were double tested and you can bet that I am steamed, mostly at myself. I let myself be talked into adding a bunch of conditioner this year at the PS instead of holding my ground whenI didn't think it was right. :grrrr:
I am assuming that unless I get my CYA levels down, I am going to be facing a losing battle with the chlorine. Am I correct?
That is correct, you need to get the CYA level down. PH needs to come down a little as well, but that is trivial in comparison.
I did filter my water as suggested in the Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparking Oasis post and did get a better reading of 70 - 75 for the CYA. I am also going to fill the pool up 3 inches as it was getting low. All said, that should bring it down to 70 or less. Is that good or do I need to get it down farther?
70 is livable, though not ideal. It is very difficult to get precise CYA readings when the water is murky. Chances are it is actually a little below 70, I remember an earlier pool store test that said 50, but let's call it 70 for now.
With CYA of 70, shock level is 20. Raising FC by 20 in 30,000 gallons takes almost 4 gallons of bleach. Follow the directions in this post and you should be fine. The key is to find some concentrated time to test and add chlorine frequently and really get ahead of the algae.
With CYA of 70, shock level is 20. Raising FC by 20 in 30,000 gallons takes almost 4 gallons of bleach. Follow the directions in this post and you should be fine. The key is to find some concentrated time to test and add chlorine frequently and really get ahead of the algae.
Being in Grand Rapids, you'll be closing your pool in the not to distant future..... 
weather and all...
I'd try to run with the higher number for the rest of the season, and if necessary lower it come spring.
I can't believe I'm already talking about Winterization and spring openings.....
weather and all...I'd try to run with the higher number for the rest of the season, and if necessary lower it come spring.
I can't believe I'm already talking about Winterization and spring openings.....
Closing ?? Man this year is going by SO fast, it seems just yesterday everyone was taking covers off pools and getting them ready for the swim season ..
Man this year is going by SO fast, it seems just yesterday everyone was taking covers off pools and getting them ready for the swim season ..Once I get this baby clear, I'll be swimming until the end of September. We will still get our Indian Summer with a week or two in the 80's. Even a month with good swimming will be worth it.
I did drain the pool 1 1/2 feet and am re-filling just to help with the CYA. I will take fresh readings tomorrow when I get home from work and start commiting algaecide myself... :lol:
I did drain the pool 1 1/2 feet and am re-filling just to help with the CYA. I will take fresh readings tomorrow when I get home from work and start commiting algaecide myself... :lol:
- Apr 27, 2008
- 48
Edge said:
Can I make some suggestions... Looking at the photo, the pool don't like too bad. With the pH being too high, its perfect for alum. Your pool store should have it. Steps on using it:
-Vac out any algae in the pool to waste.
-Pour 5lbs. granulate shock around the pool's edge.
-Scrub walls & floor if needed.
-Broadcast 10lbs. of alum into the pool.
-Allow the pumps to run for a few hours.
-Let the pool set for 24 hours, nothing in it (toys & funiture).
-Slowly vac the pool to waste.
-Backwash the filter for a few minutes.
-fill it up... the water tables will be lowered.
-Adjust the water chemistry, alum will lower pH & alkalinty levels.
I use this method whening opening pools or adjusting funky pools. When using alum, the pool will turn a milky white, that's ok, just take your time vacuuming. If you have alot of trash in the pool, rake it out & the alum will settle to the bottom of the pool again.
The approach Nasty90 is suggesting is commonly called a floc treatment (plus a few additions). That can help speed things up and gives fast results when the algae is already dead, but often only works for a day or two if the algae is still alive. You have to be able to vacuum to waste for it to work correctly.
One way to narrow down what the issue is would be to do an overnight FC loss test. Raise the pool to shock level in the evening. Let it mix for an hour and do a FC test. Early the next morning do a FC test again. If the FC level remains the same (or within 1.0) overnight then the algae is all dead.
One way to narrow down what the issue is would be to do an overnight FC loss test. Raise the pool to shock level in the evening. Let it mix for an hour and do a FC test. Early the next morning do a FC test again. If the FC level remains the same (or within 1.0) overnight then the algae is all dead.
I've often heard it referred to as 'shock and floc'. IF the shocking is enough to kill all the algae it will work but sometimes vacuuming to waste is a major chore itself. It's a technique that many 'pool service guys' use to quicly clear a green pool with a sand filter (doesn't work with a cart and using floc with DE is tricky at best). Personally, with a really green swamp I would reach for the anhydrous ammonia!JasonLion said:
(reference to another way professionals clear green pools quickly! We use it at the commercial installation I work at--or should say we keep it on hand and WOULD use it if we ever let one of our pools turn green )With a pH of 8.0 this is perfect for the formation of monochloramine, which is very effective at killing algae so this is a case where I would suggest an ammonia based algae product such as yellow out in cunjuction with a lot of chlorine or a bromide based product because nof the high CYA. Either of these will kill the algae quickly but will create a bit of a chlorine demand for a few days to a week.
In either case, after the algae is dead I would suggest lowering the CYA by some partial drains and refills.
Pool has come a long way this last week since I had to wait a few days for the test kit and pool went back to a full grass green bloom. I wasn't seeing too much results until yesterday morning.
But now my new question. I have run out of DPD reagent (did a lot of testing
) and need to get some more at the PS (Leslie's). Will these chemicals worktogether with the TR100 that I have, or should I just get their DPD kit? I really need to take measurements today or risk going back to a full bloom tomorrow.
Any (more) advice?
But now my new question. I have run out of DPD reagent (did a lot of testing
) and need to get some more at the PS (Leslie's). Will these chemicals worktogether with the TR100 that I have, or should I just get their DPD kit? I really need to take measurements today or risk going back to a full bloom tomorrow. Any (more) advice?
