Raypak r406a won't spark

Jul 2, 2013
74
Wesley Hills, NY
Pool Size
39000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Our Raypak 406a stopped working at the end of last season, but I figured better to wait to reopen to fix it. Basically as soon is it calls for heat, the SPK code shows (occasionally flashing with CFH and/or CLK), but rather than hearing the clicking at the pilot, I hear it at the PC board (seems to be at the relays). A little jigging at the ignitor got the pilot to light for a second, but mainly seems to be stuck at the board. Other than replacing the whole board, is there another approach to fixing the problem?
 
If the igniter isn’t plugged in all the way it will spark at the board. That’s probably what you are hearing. I would pull the plug out and make sure wire isn’t damaged or corroded and reconnect with a good connection.
 
When you remove the igniter plug from the board do you see a spark? Is the male connector the igniter plugs into at the board loose? If you see a spark and the male connector is sound I would suspect the igniter assembly and ground not the board.
 
The manual says to pull the wire at the board and see if there is a spark. I did this on one of my heaters can confirm there is no spark unless you run the ground like you did. I think it’s a bad board like you suspected.
 
The spark is created from the wire at the circuit board through the electrode at the pilot assembly to the pilot assembly ground. Any dirt/corrosion in the electrode, pilot assembly or pilot assembly ground will inhibit the spark and it will seek an easier path if possible.
 
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Our Raypak 406a stopped working at the end of last season, but I figured better to wait to reopen to fix it. Basically as soon is it calls for heat, the SPK code shows (occasionally flashing with CFH and/or CLK), but rather than hearing the clicking at the pilot, I hear it at the PC board (seems to be at the relays). A little jigging at the ignitor got the pilot to light for a second, but mainly seems to be stuck at the board. Other than replacing the whole board, is there another approach to fixing the problem?
CFH - Call For Heat
CLK - fireman's switch open
If you don't have a remote connection or a true "fireman's" switch and see the CLK code, the board is bad.
 

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I've replaced this board once before. Not worth it in my opinion to do it again, which is why I'm trying to pinpoint the culprit. If not the relays, I suspect it's the ignitor assembly at the board, but I have no idea what the proper name for that component is or how to find a replacement. I don't see any markings on it to indicate a part number.
 
Pilot housing and where it contacts cabinet and ground wire. What ground did you connect to when testing spark at board?
Honestly don't remember as that plumber was the one who tested that. I believe he pulled the ignition wire from the board and ran a new one from there to the area where the ground wire is connected to the base if that makes sense.
 
If it was the same ground the pilot uses and that ground path is bad it would be a faulty test. I would clean housing and ground path with stainless steel brush. Make sure it’s nice and clean and has good contact.
 
Maybe I didn't explain it properly. Basically he ran a wire from the ignitor piece on the board to the area on the base of the heater where the ground wire is attached, and looked for the spark there, as a way to get a better view of the spark if it occurred and also to rule out the wire running to the ignitor as the problem.
I will try again after cleaning when I get home. Other than the contact locations of the ground wire, where else should I be cleaning? What do you mean by housing?
 

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