Question on Filter cycle time and ‘minerals’

Fugazi

Well-known member
Apr 9, 2015
80
Saint Augustine Fl
I have a new spa that came with a frog Chen dispenser I was going to let it run until it runs out but use liquid chlorine to make adjustments

But on the frog it was the blue section of the ball has minerals

What exactly is minerals

I don’t add anything to my pool other than Chlorine and acid

So new to spa care

Do you know what they mean by minerals?

Also the spa’s manual callls for 3 hour filter run 2x. A day is that excessive?

It’s a 347 gallon tub

Thanks
 
What exactly is minerals
Copper and silver.

Copper is an algae preventer but stains surfaces and swimmers after too much is added. It's not terrible in a hot tub where the water is replaced every 3-6 months but it's terrible for pools. It also only helps before and cannot keep up with the exponential growth once you do have algae.

Silver is a disinfectant but not at the levels added to pools/spas and even if it was, it takes a long time to do its job.

For being zero effective, they are way too expensive and we reccomend removing the cartridges or using an old depleted one as a dummy cell.
 
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Also the spa’s manual callls for 3 hour filter run 2x. A day is that excessive?
Another perfect example of 'turnover' being unnecessary. Your tub needs what your tub needs based on environmental debris and use. If you're using it alot, or leave it open frequently, you'll need more runtime. When it sits closed for a few weeks, you'll need less.

It's a moving target and if the water is polished, you're filtering enough. If the chems test good and it's slightly hazy, you likely need more filter time. Adjust as necessary.
 
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One of the cafeteria people at work used the frog system and couldn't get it to work long term. Also, people report problems more often here in this forum trying to get that system to work for them. I'd suggest researching here if you plan on making the frog system your main sanitation system...

Mine (515 gallons) was factory set for three hour cycles X2, but I changed it to 2 hour cycles. If I start seeing issues I'll up it, but as said by @Newdude, it's need based, and dependent on how you use your tub.
 
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One of the cafeteria people at work used the frog system and couldn't get it to work long term. Also, people report problems more often here in this forum trying to get that system to work for them. I'd suggest researching here if you plan on making the frog system your main sanitation system...

Mine (515 gallons) was factory set for three hour cycles X2, but I changed it to 2 hour cycles. If I start seeing issues I'll up it, but as said by @Newdude, it's need based, and dependent on how you use your tub.
Ok I’ll lower it to 2 hr x 2 and see if it remains clear

Right now it’s clear Looking
 
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For being zero effective,
I disagree. They are quite effective for what they do, which is not to replace chlorine (even though they have been approved for exactly that when used with mps).
It seems to me that there were like 2.5 people here who disliked them on this forum some 20 years ago and now everyone else just parrots back what those guys said. You don't like it (in spite of never trying it)? Fine. You have heard of problems with it (here where people come with problems, as if you don't hear about chlorine problems too)? Fine. Not effective? Bull****. Prove it. If you can't, without quoting this forum, stop saying it. That's all I ask, is that opinions not be expressed as fact. Thousands upon thousands of people use this system with no troubles or complaints. But here it's junk? Makes this forum look bad, if you ask me.
 
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Prove it.
Here's a quick find:

Drawbacks

Copper-silver affectivity depends on the pH value of the water. At a pH value of 9, only one tenth of all Legionella bacteria are removed. When dissolved solid concentrations are high, silver will precipitate. This means silver ions are no longer available for disinfection.
Silver ions easily react with chlorines and nitrates that are present in the water, causing them to no longer be effective.

Read more: Copper-silver ionization as a disinfectant

We can debate the science all day but the simple fact is that you cannot test it, so you cannot know if you are actively accomplishing anything. All in the hopes of reducing chlorone usage, which needs to be fully used either way.

Again, the residual staining drawbacks are less of a issue in a hot tub which is drained at regular issues, but it's still alot of money to spend on a question mark at best.
 
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I added chlorine this morning snd it registered 6 FC

I didn’t know the CC as I didn’t have my kit

I got my kit and retested this afternoon

It says 1.5 FC
9 CC
TA 50
cYa was around 20 I couldn’t tell for sure as the kit only went from 30 up and black dot was still visible at 30

Is there a way to lower the CC?
I guess it’s the human soup that’s causing it to be high?
 
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Have you ever used a surfactant in your plumbing to remove biofilms?
How long since you emptied, cleaned and refilled the tub?
Do you clean the filter(s) regularly or have clean spares?
If you have a cover then exposing your water to the sunlight will help lower your CCs but if you are testing 9ppm CC you need to get more aggressive. What is your pH?
 
Do you use any type of nonchlorine shock?
I did add the oxidizer ( I think it was 1.5 oz) two days back when it was cloudy
Have you ever used a surfactant in your plumbing to remove biofilms?
How long since you emptied, cleaned and refilled the tub?
Do you clean the filter(s) regularly or have clean spares?
If you have a cover then exposing your water to the sunlight will help lower your CCs but if you are testing 9ppm CC you need to get more aggressive. What is your pH?
I don’t believe I have used any surfactant(not sure what that is
The spa was filled last Monday as it’s new
Filter scheduled to be cleaned this Sunday as it’s new
I don’t have any spares as it’s a new spa
I have a cover that’s on when not in use and the spa is under a covered patio
Taylor 2006 says ph is 7.0 the Taylor 1000 kit says 7.2 with the spa not running.
 
Nonchlorine shock will read as CC.

Ozone can also sometimes cause CC readings.

Possibly heavy use has caused high CC readings.
They did throw in some shock on Monday when they filled it and I didn’t have the test kit to check then.
I don’t. Have any shock here I just have my pool chlorine and the chlorine granular they gave me with the spa
So maybe it’s the shock still hanging around since Monday?
 
in the hopes of reducing chlorone usage, which needs to be fully used either way.
That's the issue right there. I say it every time.

which is not to replace chlorine
I understand you feel it's useless and expensive, but, as you said, it's untestable so you don't know it's NOT working. That is YOUR OPINION. As a technician I see the normal spa users spa, and let me assure you they need every layer of protection they can get. If there were more ways, I'd recommend those too. And at about $3 a week, I don't consider it expensive. Maybe it's not worth it to you, but it is to me and many others.
Thanks for the link. I feel it makes my point quite well. I always suspected it deterred biofilm from my own experiences but had never seen a study saying so. And it's not a quote from this forum either.👍
 
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So if I use the frog mineral thing and a zebra has never been in my pool, I can say that the frog is effective in keeping zebras out of my pool?

Proof requires something positive, not something untestable.
 
So if I use the frog mineral thing and a zebra has never been in my pool, I can say that the frog is effective in keeping zebras out of my pool?

Proof requires something positive, not something untestable.
You really should ask the zebra about that.
 
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