pulling trigger on t15cell, goodbye hauling CL jugs !

tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
2,186
Houston, TX
Hello to all,

Here's my materials list w a few questions:

Note: SWG & flow switch will both be well under 15' to install in to ProLogic PL-8 controller
SWG - SwimPure Plus Salt System - Replacement Cell up to 40,000 Gallon – (T-CELL-15-SWP)
2 2" Unions - do the Unions come w the collars that you glue to the 2" PVC or are those separate?
2 2" O-rings
flow-switch - I have read about all diff types and brands. Does someone have a recommendation on which make/model to purchase?
-one 2" T-PVC to screw in flow-switch - is this an industry std type piece of PVC that you can purchase at good plumbing supply store, or is there something specific about it?

Once I firm up all of the mandatory materials, I will then pick 1-2 places on the equipment pad and run that by you for a proper install.

Thank you very much for your feedback,
tstex
 
Ahh ok that is because that listing is just for the cell replacement and nothing else. If you were just replacing a cell then the unions would already be glued onto your plumbing. Is there a reason you are buying parts separately as opposed to a complete kit?
 
James, thank you very, very much, greatly appreciate everything you did !!

djd said: "Is there a reason you are buying parts separately as opposed to a complete kit?"

I would surely prefer to purchase everything from one vendor w inclusive kits. However, when i see pricing for a single O-ring of $10.99, I believe that is kind of excessive. I do not mind spending more to obtain quality parts from preferred vendors, but if I can save $140 here and there, I will do that.

James, when it states "AquaRite", does this mean that it has to be w an Aquarite Controller too? I've noticed SwimPure from Hayward on t15 cells and the aquarite t15 cell. Since I have the ProLogic PL-8, that should be plug'n'play w all of the products your outlined, yes? Apologies if I seem redundant, but when I start this project in 98-103 degree heat, I absolutely need to make sure that I have all the correct products once the 2" PVC return lines are cut.

Finally, I looked at both kits and none of them say if the O-rings come w them, or inside the union threads. Does anyone know?

Last thing is if I need to do a vertical install, is there a specific kit for this? And, what are the minimal dimensions that are required for this type of install? I have a puck dispenser that I could replace. Or, I have a 24" straight run but has a check valve that will need to be reconfigured. Also, at both ends of this run, there are no unions so I will have to leave enough for couplings. I would also like to put the flow switch in there too. Do I have enough room?

Thanks again for both of your feedback.
 

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James, on your posts 6 & 8, there are two diff flow switches/kits. One is hayward OEM $200+ [post 6] and the other is a
Hayward - Goldline P-KIT, GLX-FLO-RP Flow Switch With 2" Unions, Made by Harwil. $69, post 8. Does the ProLogic require that the flow switch be a Hayward or is the compatible just as good?

Finally, to dot every "i" etc., is there a certain software level on my ProLogic PL-8 that is has to be in order for the SWG & flow switch to work? Mine controller was installed in the fall of 2014.

Thanks again, really appreciate it !!
 
Hayward does not make flow switches.

They buy them from Harwil.

The ProLogic will work.

Perfect on flow-switch and prologic.

James stated from 24 available inches:

"You need 19.75" for everything."

The flow switch is 4", SWG 13" but I also have a 7" ck-valve on this run....does Jandy make a ck-valve w a smaller footprint?
 

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Hello to all.

Going to install a SWG. Should the cell be on the upside or down side of the “inverted U”?

I know Hayward wants 12” of straight pipe after flow switch, where in the vertical install should it go?

Finally, here’s a very install, but it uses short 90’s:


I would prefer the 90’s w a longer sweep, such as in attachment to reduce head loss. Any thoughts on the matter?

Thank you very much
 

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