Pressure increase from valve configuration

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RenATL

RenATL

Gold Supporter
May 12, 2023
16
Atlanta, GA
it’s my first post! And my first pool! I’ve been consuming all the Pool School info I can, my water is testing and looking great, and we enjoyed our first swim this past weekend! So, thank you to this entire community, and now to my actual question.

The pool has two cascade water features that run from the sole single speed 2HP pump. I wanted the option to filter water without the water feature as it’s all quieter. I figured out there’s a multiport valve I can also set it to just the cascades or the return jets. When I set it to just the jets, the filter pressure increases to around 26 from its usual 20-21. Can I run it that way without concerns? Wanting to make sure! The pressure goes up even more if I set it to water feature only, though that’s not really of interest to me.

Thank you for your help in advance!

Rene
 
I see no issue 21 to 26. Besides the noise I'd recommend leaving the cascades off as they'll drive the PH through the roof too so only run the a few minutes a day on days you're not using them so it wouldn't cause a stagnant water issue.
 
Rene,

I suggest that you show us several pics of your equipment pad so that we can understand your plumbing set up.

Maybe we can find a better way to do what you want or lower your filter pressure.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Edit: Just realized you asked for "several" but I think this shows the setup pretty well. Happy to take and upload more!
Note: The bottom left valve is set to jets only here.

Here it is. Thank you!
I don't use the cleaner pump on the left. The previous owners left me their Dolphin cleaner.

Equipment.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ok, just wanted to verify when it was last cleaned.

You should clean it whenever the pressure rises 25% over clean pressure.
If clean pressure was 20, clean when at 25.
With the pressure rising from 20-21 to 24 in just a few weeks, you may have a nascent algae bloom brewing.

Review:
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels

In your signature, what is a TF-2005 test kit? Did you mean TF-100 or TF-Pro?
Also, add model numbers of all your equipment to your signature.

I know this isn't directly related to your initial post, but let's be sure your test results are good.
Post a full set of current test results from your test kit.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature
 
Rene,

One pic was fine. My guess is that your pressure is normal with a single speed 2-HP pump. But you could look at..

1. How old are the cartridges and what shape are they in??
2. When is the last time you looked at your cell? You want to make sure it is not full of calcium.
3. A single speed pump is the opposite of what you need when you have a SWCG. You need a VS pump that you can run at a slow RPM.

Thanks for the pic,

Jim R.
 
proavia said:
Ok, just wanted to verify when it was last cleaned.

You should clean it whenever the pressure rises 25% over clean pressure.
If clean pressure was 20, clean when at 25.
With the pressure rising from 20-21 to 24 in just a few weeks, you may have a nascent algae bloom brewing.
Click to expand...
The pressure is still at 20. It's only increasing when I change the valve position, which makes sense to me since there's less plumbing resisting the flow, but I wanted to make sure that wouldn't be an issue for the system.
proavia said:
In your signature, what is a TF-2005 test kit? Did you mean TF-100 or TF-Pro?
Also, add model numbers of all your equipment to your signature.
Click to expand...
Ah. I meant K-2005! Corrected it. Thanks for catching that
proavia said:
I know this isn't directly related to your initial post, but let's be sure your test results are good.
Post a full set of current test results from your test kit.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature
Click to expand...
I've been pretty meticulous so far with balance and haven't had any major issues, so I'm happy to report all the ranges are currently within the Pool Math allowed ranges at least, or even within the ideal ranges. No need to use up your time on those. I'll save that help for when I inevitably have an issue! :)
 

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Jimrahbe said:
My guess is that your pressure is normal with a single speed 2-HP pump. But you could look at..

1. How old are the cartridges and what shape are they in??
2. When is the last time you looked at your cell? You want to make sure it is not full of calcium.
3. A single speed pump is the opposite of what you need when you have a SWCG. You need a VS pump that you can run at a slow RPM.

Thanks for the pic,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Thank you!!

1. They look pretty good to me. Couldn't get them to a beautiful light color, but I also didn't use any acid, just some filter cleaner I got at Lowe's and hose pressure. There is no obvious damage to the material.
2. The cell looks great. Looked at it maybe a month back and did a quick cleaning of what little scale was there.
3. I wish the previous owners had put a VS one in! I won't be able to upgrade until I can justify it. I suppose the pump will outlast the cell, and I could make the cell last longer with a VS pump, so maybe there's a breakeven in there with the added energy savings. Tough pill to swallow with a perfectly running pump though.
 
Last edited:
Rene,

How many hours a day do you run your current pump?

I have a large VS pump that I run 24/7, mostly at 1200 RPM for less than $20 bucks a month.

I suspect that your electrical bill for the pump is quite a bit more than that.

Some electrical providers will pay for a good chunk of switching over to a VS pump. Something to think about anyway...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Georgia Power isn't offering a rebate anymore. So many other utilities are.

I'm running it 8 hours a day with the cell around 40-50%. 4-6 hours in the off-seasons. Well, I've been at this for about 6 months, but that's what I've been doing so far.
 
Rene,

If your electricity is 15 cents per KWhr, then it costs you about $75 bucks a month to run your pump.

poolenergyuse.gif


Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Rene,

Well... Maybe not... :mrgreen:

The idea that you have to turnover your pool water X times a day is just an old myth and it is not true. Chemicals keep your pool water clear, sanitized and algae-free, not the number of times the water passes through your filter. Your filter is only there there to capture the 'junk' that falls into your pool each day. It is not there to prevent algae. Once your filter starts to pick up algae, it is too late and you have already lost the algae war.

We believe that you should run your pump for an actual reason and not some old myth.

The main reason to run the pump is to generate the amount of chlorine your pool needs if you have a SWCG or a (shudder) tab feeder.
The next reason to run the pump is to keep the surface of your water skimmed the way you want.
Another reason to run your pump is to run any suction side or pressure side cleaner.

Running x turnovers per day does not hurt anything... but by itself it a useless metrics.

One of the great things about having a VS pump is that you can run it at a low RPM for next to nothing. As I said above, I run my pump 24/7 because I love to make a little chlorine all the time. I also love to have the pool constantly skimmed. I kind of like to see a little water movement when I look at the pool, and running 24/7 means I never have to worry about freeze control as the pump is always running. I have no clue if I get .1 turnovers per day or a 1000 turnovers a day.. It just does not matter to me or my pool.

It is certainly not a requirement to run 24/7, it is just something I like to do. It is not something that I could afford to do if I had a single speed pump.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I'd still need to figure out the hours and speed, based on preference and otherwise so that's more what I meant for the calculator. Either way, why run at 1200 rpm, like you do, versus, say, 1750. I'd like running longer at a lower speed and could figure out the swg production, but the speed is less clear. We don't need to get into it now since the calculator gave me a rough idea, but I'd have to figure it out later for sure.
 
Rene,

The basic idea of running a VS pump is to run it as slow as you can and still get the job done.

For me, 1200 RPM is what I need to close the SWCG's flow switch and a little extra just to make sure. The is the slowest speed I ever run. It makes no sense to me to run my pump if I'm not making chlorine.

The cell's output is not based on the amount of flow.. As long as the cell's flow switch is closed, it will make the same amount of chlorine no matter the speed.

People who have heaters normally have to run 1500 to 1800 to close their flow switch, because the heater restricts the water flow.

Each pool is different, and each pool owner is different. When the time comes, you will just have to experiment to find out what works best for you.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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