Been a while since a post, as we've been trouble-free. Had to evacuate Sat and left around noon. I turned off the pump breaker before we left. Got back Mon around noon, turned breaker on, then pump. It ran fine for about ten minutes; I know the water was getting to the filter as I opened the air valve after it had started running. After the ten min or so, I smelled an electrical burning smell and heard the motor making a very loud not-right whirring noise. It was smoking a lot also. I turned off the breaker and haven't touched it. Do I need a new motor? Full disclosure, it's very old and theres been a few times in the last couple of months where it was louder than normal. Although it did receive heavy rain I don't think it was ever under water, even partially.
Post Irma - Pump Motor Burned Up
- Thread starter ashley79
- Start date
CJadamec
TFP Expert
An electronics professor once told me this " All electrical devices need magic smoke to work. This magic smoke is installed when the device is made and is always trying to escape. If for any reason you manage to let the magic smoke out of the machine it will never run again. Unfortunately it is near impossible to catch all the smoke and put it back into the machine."
You sound like you are in the market for a new motor. Wind driven rain can effectively "flood" a motor if the rain is driven horizontal.
You sound like you are in the market for a new motor. Wind driven rain can effectively "flood" a motor if the rain is driven horizontal.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,318
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
There is a high probability you need a new motor. You'll have it off to replace it anyway so try to disassemble it and dry it. If any of the 4 long bolts that hold the end plate on are frozen you'll have a lot of work to salvage it.. probably not worth it for such an old motor. But if you're very lucky you may just need a bearing... $25. Don't get your hopes up though, it doesn't sound likely. If you go the new motor route consider pulling the 4 long bolts one at a time and using Permatex anti-seize or Tef Gel (West Marine or other boat stores). This will eventually wear out and drip water on your motor bearing that causes premature failure. This should allow you to remove the plate when your bearing need replacement next time. Also, either way you go replace the pump seal while you have it apart. There are also lots of good video's on YouTube that show how to do these procedures.
I hope this helps.
Chris
Thanks very much for the prompt replies. I have a tech coming out tomorrow to replace it. (I dont mess with electricity).
On a separate note, since it will have been off for almost 6 days, do I just need to chem test after its run for a couple of hours and see if i need to slam or not? My pumps never been off for this long before.
On a separate note, since it will have been off for almost 6 days, do I just need to chem test after its run for a couple of hours and see if i need to slam or not? My pumps never been off for this long before.
You should still be maintaining your FC and pH. You can use your brush to mix them in.