poor circulation

[da324]

Hi,
I have an 8000 gallon above ground pool here in Florida. I replaced the original 1 hp motor and have a sands filter on it. I have my pool levels checked at the pool store regularly and they are perfect, but the water is cloudy. The only thing I can think is that the circulation has a design flaw. This pool literally came with a fitting about 8" from the top lip of the pool and was just a hole that shot straight out, not adjustable at all. I removed it and reduced the hole size with a new fitting so the water had more force and I can also direct the water. I angle it to try and make the pool circulate, but after I go about 2 feet underwater, I cannot feel the jet pushing water anymore. I get in it daily to move the water around, but it never seems to get better. It's very swim worthy, but I want it clear. My next thought is to put an extension on the new valve I've installed to try and circulate the water from the bottom instead of the top 1/3 that currently circulates now. I bought the pool from a guy I met as he was moving. It cost 3000.00 new and it seems there would be two valves pushing water, one up top and one down low, instead of one jet up top to move 8000 gallons of water around. In my opinion, circulation shouldn't be an issue for a pool that costs that much. Any ideas, am I doing something wrong? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[cantplay]

When did you backwash last?

 

[da324]

When did you backwash last?


It's due for a backwash. I usually backwash when the pressure leaves the most efficient range on the pressure gauge, usually every two weeks. Does it need more? Thanks for the response!

 

[cantplay]

They recommend to backwash when your pressure is 25% more than your baseline reading (which is your pressure reading right after a good backwash). For example, my single return jet wasn't pushing much water today and my baseline reading is 12psi. Looked at the gauge and it was at 17 (should have backwashed at 15). Anyway, did the backwash and the jet returned to normal. Your 1HP pump, with one return jet (good that you got a directional jet) and your size pool should be more than fine, so good news is that you probably don't need to do the extension, add a valve or whatnot.

You can see if backwashing the filter ends up clearing your pool up to your liking, but if it doesn't, you may have more going on that is not related to your filtration, but instead related to your water chemistry and balancing. We can help you with that too, but you need to read up in pool school and get a good test kit, pretty much the TF-100 or K2006C and post results of your testing. We also need to know about your pool and equipment, which you should put in your signature line, how you chlorinate now, and what type of products you have been putting in your pool.

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum

I have my pool levels checked at the pool store regularly and they are perfect, but the water is cloudy.

95% of the time that is a chemistry issue....not circulation.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. As you read, understand that TFP places no value on pool store testing. They are too often very wrong and you will probably have cloudy water as long as you believe their test results.

 

[Jae0166]

I have 21,000 gallon aboveground pool my return jet faces down to the right just a little I’ve tried every which way you can try and that’s the best circulation seems for my pool.
Sound like it’s a chemistry problem and not really a problem you need to buy you a Taylor kit first stop making unnecessary trips to the pool store and take care of your pool the way all of us do at TFP. Just a suggestion.

 

[Richard320]

More than likely, your chemistry is not perfect. I'll bet your pool store considers just about any CYA to be okay and 1-3 FC is ideal, completely disregarding the FC/CYA relationship. In brief, it's almost a certainty that your chlorine level is too low. And, no, a one-time megadose will not cure things. It requires high chlorine levels for a sustained period of time. But that's getting too far ahead.

Pool store testing is usually off, but post up your results anyway.

 

[Bill HInes]

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/126876-Circulation-Modification


Here is a little mod I did to help circulation (above link). It helped a TON. BUT at the end of the day I would follow the advise of all the experience offered here. My little AGP so easy to maintain it gets boring (not).

 

[da324]

Thanks everyone, I'm out of town at the moment and will get results to you when I get back. I have a kit, but probably need a better one. The pool store is right next door to a business we frequent a few times a week, so it's not a hassle. I figured they would know, but by the responses, I guess they don't. It is rainy season here in Florida and I noticed that usually throws things off a bit too. Thanks again!

 

[da324]

Welcome to the forum

95% of the time that is a chemistry issue....not circulation.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. As you read, understand that TFP places no value on pool store testing. They are too often very wrong and you will probably have cloudy water as long as you believe their test results.

I know you said not to trust pool stores, but why do you think they are wrong? I've watched them use the more expensive kits that I will eventually purchase, so not sure why they can't be trusted. Being in Sebring, I'm sure you're getting as much rain were are here in Clearwater. So, that needs to be taken into consideration. However, I did have them test my water again and I've attached the results. Thanks for your time.

 

[Jae0166]

By no means this is intended to be a insult to you. But if the store know so much why would they circle your calcium Hardness as low when you have a vinyl liner. To sell product that you don’t need. Been down that expensive road. Get you a Taylor kit and start saving money like I did. Good luck!

 

[da324]

By no means this is intended to be a insult to you. But if the store know so much why would they circle your calcium Hardness as low when you have a vinyl liner. To sell product that you don’t need. Been down that expensive road. Get you a Taylor kit and start saving money like I did. Good luck!

Thanks, yes we were aware of that, and don't use calcium. I'll get a Taylor Kit and check and get back to the forum. Does Taylor make a specific kit that you're talking about, or do they just have one? Thanks again!

 

[Richard320]

I know you said not to trust pool stores, but why do you think they are wrong? I've watched them use the more expensive kits that I will eventually purchase, so not sure why they can't be trusted. Being in Sebring, I'm sure you're getting as much rain were are here in Clearwater. So, that needs to be taken into consideration. However, I did have them test my water again and I've attached the results. Thanks for your time.

I see a contradiction here. If TA is 10, there's no way pH is going to be 7.4. It would probably be somewhere in the 5s.

And as i suspected, they consider just about anything okay for CYA yet want to keep FC low.

If your CYA is 90 (and all the test results are suspect if they can't get pH and TA right so that's a big if) then your FC level is just barely above minimum [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

The test kit you want is a Taylor K-2006 or a TF100. Pool School - Test Kits Compared has a chart that shows the differences. It will be rare if the pool store has one in stock. Do not let them sell you a K-2005 and tell you it's the same. They're not. K-2005 has a DPD test,. K-2006 has a FAS-DPD test. The difference is like a TV versus an HDTV. They are not the same, even if the boxes look almost identical.

 

[ajw22]

I know you said not to trust pool stores, but why do you think they are wrong? I've watched them use the more expensive kits that I will eventually purchase, so not sure why they can't be trusted. Being in Sebring, I'm sure you're getting as much rain were are here in Clearwater. So, that needs to be taken into consideration. However, I did have them test my water again and I've attached the results. Thanks for your time.

More expensive equipment does not make testing more accurate. You can’t have a TA of 10 with a PH of 7.4.

And phosphates is not something that needs to be treated if you maintain sufficient FC following [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

And a CYA level of 90 is not OK and probably not correct.

So you have at least two testing errors and at least four bad recommendations.

Get your TF-100 Test Kit and check for yourself. Then tell us what you think of your pool store.

Also consider reading Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

 

[da324]

I see a contradiction here. If TA is 10, there's no way pH is going to be 7.4. It would probably be somewhere in the 5s.

And as i suspected, they consider just about anything okay for CYA yet want to keep FC low.

If your CYA is 90 (and all the test results are suspect if they can't get pH and TA right so that's a big if) then your FC level is just barely above minimum [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

The test kit you want is a Taylor K-2006 or a TF100. Pool School - Test Kits Compared has a chart that shows the differences. It will be rare if the pool store has one in stock. Do not let them sell you a K-2005 and tell you it's the same. They're not. K-2005 has a DPD test,. K-2006 has a FAS-DPD test. The difference is like a TV versus an HDTV. They are not the same, even if the boxes look almost identical.

Thanks, I've ordered the K-2006 and will post the results after I get it.

 

[Mike89]

I haven't seen it asked in thread so I'll ask it. How long are you running your filter each day? I've had a pool over 8 years and for me the thing that has affected my water the most was the filtering/circulation. I'm running my Intex 18' x 52" deep (7000 gal) pool on a 16" sand filter and I run the pump about 16 hours a day. Tried 2 hr, 4 hr, 6 hr, 8 hr, 10 hr, 12 hr, you get the picture. For me 16 hours a day has worked best and to tell the truth just turning it on at start of summer and letting it run until end of summer is good too (might cost a little more each year for electricity but the water will be the happiest). I've seen that just as important as length of filtering per day, it's how long everyday the water is not moving and how hot it is outside (needs more circulation/filtering on a 100+ degree day than a 70 degree day). Seems every year I'm playing a race with my pool and in the past ended up chasing it all summer and eventually losing the race. From my humble experience of 8 plus years tending my pool, I sure don't agree with everything being a 95% chemistry, 5% circulation/filtering issue. But hey this is just my personal experience. I don't care how good the chemistry is, if you don't circulate/filter the water long enough each day, everything is going to go to you know what. You have to have both in balance, not 95% of one and 5% of the other. Not meant to offend, just comments from a AGP user. For me and in my climate, algae is the biggest offender by a long shot. That's one tough aggressive plant that's even in my tap water. Even when I first fill the pool each year from scratch, the water will have a slight greenish tint to it until I shock and kill it all. Then it's on from that point keeping it from re-establishing itself. The old expression "life will find a way". Yup, algae will try to find that way. I would say there is a good chance the cloudiness is most likely dead algae in the water. Constant and consistent filtering will eventually remove it (if you killed it all). If you are already running 24 hr circulation/filtering and chlorine levels are good, and still having problems, then we can go back to the chemistry issue. Some local pool shops will try to turn this into rocket science (and are all flying different rockets). It's not. Disclamer: I can only speak for my water an no one elses.