Pool Store opinion on bleach method

gboulton,

Cha-ching!! :party: You are on the money. BBB is testing, understanding the results, and then knowing what to do about them. It's that simple.

You may move to the front row in Pool School. Don't flip your tassle to the other side, however....no one ever graduates....it is a life long learning experience. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
duraleigh said:
gboulton,

Cha-ching!! :party: You are on the money. BBB is testing, understanding the results, and then knowing what to do about them. It's that simple.

You may move to the front row in Pool School. Don't flip your tassle to the other side, however....no one ever graduates....it is a life long learning experience. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Wooo!

<Uecker>Must be in the front row!</Uecker>

:lol:
 
chiefwej said:
Before I moved to Tucson I used the pucks with no problems. By the time CYA levels got elevated, pool season was over in New England and I had to drain about 1/3 of the pool to get it below the returns for winterizing. Winter snow melt on my mesh cover dilutes the water. By the time I brought the water back up in the spring, CYA was not an issue. So for some people the pucks work just fine.

Doesn't work so well when the swimming season is 6 months long, you don't have to do full winterizing, and there's no snow melt, does it? :wink:
 
Actually swim season is more like 8 months and the pool is open year-round. Winterizing, what's that? We don't have any winter. It just gets a little too cool to swim, so we use the spa instead.
 
My neighbor is watching my new pool while Im out. He has had pools for maybe 10 years and has got it down. For example he can drop the chlorine OTO test directly into the pool water and determine if he needs more chlorine.

However he uses pucks and said that he hasnt had any problems at all. I really only need him to test pH as I have a chlorine feeder feeding liquid bleach, the issue is I have only been running it for 4 days so dont have it exactly balanced. I was showing him how I do my tests so that he could do them on my pool, but I was at his house and so used his water, the main tests are FC and pH. His chlorine measured at 10ppm and for fun I measured his CYA which turned out to be off the charts. Well over 100, and maybe closer to 200. He did say that the pool store said he should expect to drain his pool every 4 years and he said it is worth it for the convenience of pucks.

I was wondering why he isnt having problems.
 
march2012 said:
Well over 100, and maybe closer to 200. He did say that the pool store said he should expect to drain his pool every 4 years and he said it is worth it for the convenience of pucks.

I was wondering why he isnt having problems.
You hit the nail on the head, many successful puck users are doing a drain and refill...and not always talking about it since they think it is normal pool maintenance (as is, in some cases, a weekly shock, regular use of algaecide, and phosphate removers).

As to not having problems at that cya level, the guidelines on here are to help the majority of us to operate trouble free. Some pool operators can run outside of the recommend parameters and still be generally algae free. Low organic load, cleaner/fewer swimmers, more shade on pool, etc. are a very few of the many factors. The danger is assuming what works for one, works for all pools or even for the same pool all the time. There are threads on this site that have the "I have been doing it this way for years but this is the first year I have had trouble". If they stick around and follow the tfp recommendations, their pools clear up.
 
Linen makes some really excellent points. If I had a nickel for every post over the years that began with, "I have been doing the same thing for xxxx years and never had a problem 'til now...."
 
duraleigh said:
Linen makes some really excellent points. If I had a nickel for every post over the years that began with, "I have been doing the same thing for xxxx years and never had a problem 'til now...."

He does add shock regularly. He warned me that after it rained I would need to shock my pool. So maybe he is on the edge and any big disturbances cause algae.
 
Buy a bottle or 2 of 12.5% liquid shock from the pool store and they will support you if you tell them you are using liquid chlorine. Pool school will tell you how to do the rest with 6% or 12.5%. But I support my local pool store and told them I am doing liquid and picked up a bottle today, their cost if I double the volume to say 2 gallons is close to the cost of 182 oz bleach jugs with < 75 cents +-. So I alternate and keep my relationship. All in all if we don't support the little guy they won't be here, so I chip in that extra buck here and there and support them with their products and they support me.
 
As much as we all hate the idea of being "pool stored" we still need them to stay in business so that we can pick up that gasket or other part we need. I even find that my local pool store is one of the cheapest places to buy my MA, not that my occasional purchase of a couple gallons will keep them in business.
 

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linen said:
The danger is assuming what works for one, works for all pools or even for the same pool all the time.
I should correct myself here...the basic tenants of the BBB method of knowing a pool's chemistry by testing accurately and then acting appropriately does work for all pools.
 
chiefwej said:
Actually swim season is more like 8 months and the pool is open year-round. Winterizing, what's that? We don't have any winter. It just gets a little too cool to swim, so we use the spa instead.
Yeah, I'm Tucson area too.
Forgot you had a spa. I don't have any heat except for a solar blanket with my pool, so my season is a about 6 months, maybe a little longer if I don't mind cold water.
I did sort of winterize last year, but only because I tripped over a hose and disconnected it from the filter on a chilly November day and decided I didn't want to mess with the plumbing. So I did drain and totally disconnect the pump / filter.
 
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