Pool/Spa return tied together?

anomale

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 23, 2011
58
Riverside, CA
Pool Size
26000
Helping a buddy fix his plumbing. On the return there is a section of pipe that connects the two and with the return set to pool, water still goes to the spa. There is a leak at what appears to be a check valve (circled in blue) and I need to repair it.

Does that loop have to be there or can I cap it off? What is the purpose of it? Best way to repair it?

441034095_455159937031180_4799496737748781520_n.jpg
 
That is the spa make up line. It will always, by design, add water to the spa when the system is in Pool mode. When in Spa mode, the check valve keeps the water going back to the Pool side.

We recommend with an automation system, to run the spa in Spillover mode twice a day to refresh it and not have a make up line. That way you do not increase the pH unnecessarily due to the constant aeration caused by the spa spillover.
 
Since you buddy does not have automation, the crossover pipe feeding the spa when in POOL mode keeps the spa water fresh and chlorinated as it spills over into the pool.

The check valve is to keep the spa from draining back into the pool through the return line when the pump is off.

Replace the leaking check valve.
 
Helping a buddy fix his plumbing. On the return there is a section of pipe that connects the two and with the return set to pool, water still goes to the spa. There is a leak at what appears to be a check valve (circled in blue) and I need to repair it.

Does that loop have to be there or can I cap it off? What is the purpose of it? Best way to repair it?

View attachment 570930
Is the spa raised above the pool? If so, it or another in the return line is needed. If not there are other options.
 
Since you buddy does not have automation, the crossover pipe feeding the spa when in POOL mode keeps the spa water fresh and chlorinated as it spills over into the pool.

The check valve is to keep the spa from draining back into the pool through the return line when the pump is off.

Replace the leaking check valve.
thanks, I was there yesterday this explains why the spa drains down, I thought he had a major leak in the spa when I shut the pump off. Bad Check valve.
 
yes it is above, we have the return valve set to fill the spa at 20% and the pool at 80% because he likes the constant waterfall into the pool
You need a check valve to stop the spa from draining. Its doable, but not the easiest thing if not experienced working with PVC plumbing.

In the picture, the line feeding the small check valve can be cut flush with the adapter and a cap glued onto the stub.
The T on the right pipe to the spa can be replaced with a check valve as the one referenced. Measure carefully, cut the section of pipe with the T out, install the union halves, slide the valve in place (watching the water-flow arrow), tighten the unions and you're done. Be sure to leave that return valve partially open to the spa to keep it fresh.
 
You need a check valve to stop the spa from draining. Its doable, but not the easiest thing if not experienced working with PVC plumbing.

In the picture, the line feeding the small check valve can be cut flush with the adapter and a cap glued onto the stub.
The T on the right pipe to the spa can be replaced with a check valve as the one referenced. Measure carefully, cut the section of pipe with the T out, install the union halves, slide the valve in place (watching the water-flow arrow), tighten the unions and you're done. Be sure to leave that return valve partially open to the spa to keep it fresh.
Thank you, I think I'll just swap out the existing check valve, lower cost, and hopefully resolves the draining spa plus if for some reason he forgets to leave the spa return open it won't cause issues down the road. Only concern I have is there doesn't look like a lot of flex available to fit a new valve in there assuming I cut flush with the small adapters. How would you guys go about it aside from cutting out the existing 2" pipe
 
Thank you, I think I'll just swap out the existing check valve, lower cost, and hopefully resolves the draining spa plus if for some reason he forgets to leave the spa return open it won't cause issues down the road. Only concern I have is there doesn't look like a lot of flex available to fit a new valve in there assuming I cut flush with the small adapters. How would you guys go about it aside from cutting out the existing 2" pipe
Cut the existing assembly out, cut the 3/4" pipe flush at each T. Insert 3/4" pipe extenders. Get two 3/4" couplers, two 3/4" elbows, small amount of 3/4" pipe, a 3/4" check valve with unions so that this doesn't have to be done the next time it goes bad.
Build a new assembly of all the parts and glue onto the extenders. Likely won't get as much flow as desired.
 
Cut the existing assembly out, cut the 3/4" pipe flush at each T. Insert 3/4" pipe extenders. Get two 3/4" couplers, two 3/4" elbows, small amount of 3/4" pipe, a 3/4" check valve with unions so that this doesn't have to be done the next time it goes bad.
Build a new assembly of all the parts and glue onto the extenders. Likely won't get as much flow as desired.
Thank you, never heard of a pipe extender this would have saved me a lot of time and money on past projects. when you say flush at each T should I cut where the red line is and insert the extender there?

Screenshot 2024-05-08 093424.png
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thank you, never heard of a pipe extender this would have saved me a lot of time and money on past projects. when you say flush at each T should I cut where the red line is and insert the extender there?

View attachment 571136
Yes. That keeps the repair as close to the T as possible. Less leverage for something to break it off.

Magic Plastics MagicMend Schedule 40 3/4 in. Slip X 3/4 in. D Spigot PVC Pipe Extender​

1715190385713.png