Pool pump discharge leak, again

sonnaps

Active member
Jun 11, 2022
27
NJ
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I redid some of my plumbing this season because of some leaks at the multiport valve at at the pump, and I wound up using some Hayward Unions directly into the return on the multiport valve as well as the discharge side of the pump. Previously there were no unions anywhere. The male threads of these unions just went in too easy, though, both on the multiport valve and the pump. I used this thread sealant. The unions just bottomed out easily just by hand. As I was doing it, it just didn't feel right. It was too easy. (I feel like the male threads on these unions are too short and slightly undersized) After I let this particular sealant set for 24 hours just to be on the safe side, I turned everything on and sure enough it was leaking there. I did this like three times, removing everything, cleaning everything really well, reapplying the sealant, etc. I just kept getting leaks. I used the same blue sealant on a threaded male adapter into the multiport valve and that one was fine, no leaks. That one got tight as I screwed it in by hand, and I went 1 turn past hand tight with a band clamp.

After being completely fed up with this I called my pool guy who opens and closes my pool. He came and we discussed him just using a male adapter, short piece of pipe, and a slip union instead to go into these trouble ports. He used white teflon tape and Pertmatex white thread sealant. He managed to solve the leak on the multiport valve but not on the pump, that is still leaking. He said he did it correctly and maybe there is a crack there on the pump housing, but I don't know. I feel like it's still coming out of the threaded area there. If the housing was cracked, you would probably see a split, no?

Anyway, I am looking to get some suggestions from you all. Here are a bunch of questions:

1. Should I take it apart again and do it like he did, white teflon tape and white thread sealant?
2. Should I abandon all of this and look into some hi-temp unions with an o-ring at the base and thread directly into the pump again? Something like this. The threads on this look so short as well, but I guess that bottom o-ring is supposed to be doing all the work.
3. Is a leak on the discharge side such a big deal? Like if I just left it like this for the season, I am just losing a bit of water and that would be all? Is there anything else I should be worrying about if I leave it like this? Any damage to the pump that I can cause leaving it leaking as it is?

I attached some pics of my setup. There's a before pic with my union directly threaded into the pump and an after pic with a male adapter in there. I also have a pic of where the leak is evident after I wiped the area dry with a paper towel. It's a small and slow leak but does accumulate there and eventually runs under the pump after running for a day.
 

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I redid some of my plumbing this season because of some leaks at the multiport valve at at the pump, and I wound up using some Hayward Unions directly into the return on the multiport valve as well as the discharge side of the pump. Previously there were no unions anywhere. The male threads of these unions just went in too easy, though, both on the multiport valve and the pump. I used this thread sealant. The unions just bottomed out easily just by hand. As I was doing it, it just didn't feel right. It was too easy. (I feel like the male threads on these unions are too short and slightly undersized) After I let this particular sealant set for 24 hours just to be on the safe side, I turned everything on and sure enough it was leaking there. I did this like three times, removing everything, cleaning everything really well, reapplying the sealant, etc. I just kept getting leaks. I used the same blue sealant on a threaded male adapter into the multiport valve and that one was fine, no leaks. That one got tight as I screwed it in by hand, and I went 1 turn past hand tight with a band clamp.

After being completely fed up with this I called my pool guy who opens and closes my pool. He came and we discussed him just using a male adapter, short piece of pipe, and a slip union instead to go into these trouble ports. He used white teflon tape and Pertmatex white thread sealant. He managed to solve the leak on the multiport valve but not on the pump, that is still leaking. He said he did it correctly and maybe there is a crack there on the pump housing, but I don't know. I feel like it's still coming out of the threaded area there. If the housing was cracked, you would probably see a split, no?

Anyway, I am looking to get some suggestions from you all. Here are a bunch of questions:

1. Should I take it apart again and do it like he did, white teflon tape and white thread sealant?
2. Should I abandon all of this and look into some hi-temp unions with an o-ring at the base and thread directly into the pump again? Something like this. The threads on this look so short as well, but I guess that bottom o-ring is supposed to be doing all the work.
3. Is a leak on the discharge side such a big deal? Like if I just left it like this for the season, I am just losing a bit of water and that would be all? Is there anything else I should be worrying about if I leave it like this? Any damage to the pump that I can cause leaving it leaking as it is?

I attached some pics of my setup. There's a before pic with my union directly threaded into the pump and an after pic with a male adapter in there. I also have a pic of where the leak is evident after I wiped the area dry with a paper towel. It's a small and slow leak but does accumulate there and eventually runs under the pump after running for a day.
If the male adapter that is used threads all the way in by hand, it has been deformed. Yours is installed that way. It also could have cracked the pump, but that would take a very close examination to see. Pipe threads should NEVER be threaded in all the way, they are wedge shaped and will either deform male portion or crack the female portion. Would be better to get a high-temp pump union that seals with an O ring. They do thread all the way in so as to compress the O ring, the threads are straight.

Hayward instructs that NO pipe dope (liquid thread sealant) be used on that pump. From the manual:
"Use Teflon tape to seal threaded connections on molded plastic components. All plastic fittings must be new or thoroughly cleaned before use. NOTE - Do NOT use Plumber’s Pipe Dope as it may cause cracking of the plastic components. Italics added."
 
The original threaded Hayward threaded union I used was what threaded in all the way by hand easily, not the male adapter. My pool guy put in the male adapter to replace my union and he did it his way, with tape and sealant and hand tight with probably 1 or 1-1/2 turns with a wrench. It does seem pretty far in there but I think he was careful and does this all the time. Maybe he went too far in with it, maybe the housing is indeed cracked?
 
I think I will. What about leaving it with a slow leak for a long period of time? Assuming the leak doesn't get worse and worse. Are there any real drawbacks or risks aside from losing some water each day?
Lose water-lose chemicals. Also, you should definitely lose that tablet feeder, especially with a heater. When the system turns off the highly corrosive "soup" from the tablets can (and sooner or later will) flow backwards into the heater and damage/destroy it. At the very least never put tablets into it. if you're going to use them, use a floating chlorinator.
 
Hmm, I do have a check valve on the heater. I thought that would be plenty safe. I also bypass the heater whenever it's not in use.
 

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Hmm, I do have a check valve on the heater. I thought that would be plenty safe. I also bypass the heater whenever it's not in use.
The way the bypass is plumbed, the solution from the tab feeder can flow into the heater inlet with it bypassed as it is in the picture. Also, that is a standard check valve. The chemicals from the feeder will damage the seal on that valve. Even the ones made specifically for tab feeders and labeled as "chemical resistant" fail regularly. Problem with them is that they are not in a clear housing so you can't see that it failed.
Your pool, your money, your choice. I just recommend based on the damage I have seen from that type of installation for decades.
 
The way the bypass is plumbed, the solution from the tab feeder can flow into the heater inlet with it bypassed as it is in the picture. Also, that is a standard check valve. The chemicals from the feeder will damage the seal on that valve. Even the ones made specifically for tab feeders and labeled as "chemical resistant" fail regularly. Problem with them is that they are not in a clear housing so you can't see that it failed.
Your pool, your money, your choice. I just recommend based on the damage I have seen from that type of installation for decades.
Got it. I will definitely look into that and alternative solutions. First time I used the chlorinator this season with this new heater. I did the liquid diet last year. I was thinking I should have had the installer add a second Jandy valve on that heater and have that check valve on the bottom there to truly cut off the heater when not in use. Check valve would only be when then heater is not bypassed. Would have made me more comfortable but it was too later after he did everything. This is the check valve that is there. My routine now is to heat up the pool if my wife really wants it, shut the heater off, drain and bypass it till next time. Usually we did that once a week or every other week last year.
 
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