In this thread flashing-check-flow-t10282-20.html#p222003 which contains a lot of similar information and troubleshooting I posted this:
Rather than water down that thread with my own issues which may be similar but are different; I decided to post here in an independent thread.
This was followed up by a response by Bama Rambler:
Turbine Doc said:Howdy all, I'm new to the site great info,
I just downloaded the "pin-out" document, & went through the continuity & resistance checks of the tri-sensor and the harness.
No problems found there, I don't think lack of flow is a real issue as the pool vacuum (Kreepy Krawley) is still able to crawl the bottom, and up the sides; when I have had true flow problems in the past that does not happen.
Just to be sure I did tear down my pump, I saw some scoring in the case ring & impeller wear that wasn't bad but since I had a spare of each I changed those, slight improvement (negligible) to what I was seeing before I swapped case & impeller.
Backwash flow seems good in the waste/flush mode from the sand filter, there is some cavitation in the pump when in vacuum mode with bottom drain closed and skimmer suction only; the pump filter basket almost runs dry and the pump pulls very hard through that, there is also a lot of aeration in the pump's filter cover, I have found a few fitting leaks which I will be correcting tomorrow in daylight hours on suction fittings to the pump, possibly flow is being compromised by that to some degree primarily the valve stem packing gland for the bottom suction valve cut out seems to be sucking air a little, I'm hoping that fixes what is going on.
If I correct all the suspect fittings & I still have low flow alarm, what next a circuit board, any known tests to verify for the board ???
When checking the cell the salinity probes are very black, would poor conductivity in those cause low flow light?
Lastly when system is aligned for recirc or normal filter, I can see through the body of the lower crossover, and I can see that the check valve is unseating a little 1/8"-3/16" near as I can best tell, is this normal?
My apologies for being long winded but I wanted to cover all bases of what I have checked so far, oh BTW screen and & the cell itself are clear.
Tim
Rather than water down that thread with my own issues which may be similar but are different; I decided to post here in an independent thread.
This was followed up by a response by Bama Rambler:
Bama Rambler said:The flow proof is a switch. If you put a jumper across the flow switch wires (pins 1 & 2) the low flow light should go out. If it doesn't then the board or cabling from the switch to the board is bad. To eliminate the cabling put a jumper between the middle pins (1 & 2) in the molex connector on the board. If you still get a low flow indication the board is bad.
CAUTION: DO NOT run the unit with the flow switch jumped except a few seconds for testing.