It's OK as you have it, but I'd probably add more calcium during the spring. I presume you are probably going to get some dilution from rain overflow over the winter unless you have a solid cover with a cover pump.
Pool opening for the season
- Thread starter Johnny B
- Start date
10/2/10
CH 285
Borates 30
10/16/10
CYA 50
10/20/10
FC 11.5
Added algaecide & closed
WINTER TESTING
10/28/10
FC 3-5 so 4
pH 7.7 or 7.8
temperature 64F (was unusually hot in the 80s but 10/28 is the last hot day & in the 40’s hereafter)
I did nothing.
11/27/10
18,654 gallons of water (winter level)
pH 8.2
FC 1
TA 50
Temperature 52F
So target pH 7.6 so add 69oz acid?
So target FC 4 so add 116oz of bleach?
But doing so gets the CSI undesirable?
My current issue is calcium scaling, trying to prevent it- unlike I did last winter by letting the pH get too high for too long; I’d like to avoid it getting worse etc.
Thanks
CH 285
Borates 30
10/16/10
CYA 50
10/20/10
FC 11.5
Added algaecide & closed
WINTER TESTING
10/28/10
FC 3-5 so 4
pH 7.7 or 7.8
temperature 64F (was unusually hot in the 80s but 10/28 is the last hot day & in the 40’s hereafter)
I did nothing.
11/27/10
18,654 gallons of water (winter level)
pH 8.2
FC 1
TA 50
Temperature 52F
So target pH 7.6 so add 69oz acid?
So target FC 4 so add 116oz of bleach?
But doing so gets the CSI undesirable?
My current issue is calcium scaling, trying to prevent it- unlike I did last winter by letting the pH get too high for too long; I’d like to avoid it getting worse etc.
Thanks
I'm not sure what's making your pH rise so quickly given that your TA is so low -- if your CH was rising, then that could be plaster curing or dissolving. You aren't at risk of calcium scaling unless the pH got much higher -- you could just get it down to the 7.6 to 7.7 range for now as you described and then check each month to see if the pH has risen above 8.0. The difficulty will be mixing the water after adding acid since you've winterized the pool -- if you have a submersible pump (including a pool cover pump) that can be useful for mixing the water somewhat. If you don't let the pH get too much above 8.0 then the risk for scaling will be very low with your current numbers.
Thanks a million.
I’ll add the acid, very diluted, over several increments, over 6- hours, & then allow the submersible pump to circulate another 2-3 hours after the last dose.
Add the bleach as well, right? (diluted as well, in a separate dilution container)after all the acid, or just go ahead & add the diluted bleach essentially at the same time as the small diluted acid portions?
Thanks
I’ll add the acid, very diluted, over several increments, over 6- hours, & then allow the submersible pump to circulate another 2-3 hours after the last dose.
Add the bleach as well, right? (diluted as well, in a separate dilution container)after all the acid, or just go ahead & add the diluted bleach essentially at the same time as the small diluted acid portions?
Thanks
Four (roughly monthly) winter tests & treatments of acid & Chlorine since last season
4/3/11 – spring opening
pH 7.8
FC 1
CC0.5, no need to shock
TA 50
CH 225-250; lets say 240?
CYA 25
Borates 30 (kind of hard to believe since I only added Borates in 5/2009 but I also had two females read the Borates test strip in 10/2010 and we all agreed on 30)
Temperature 57F
Water clear, typical winter debris on floor
4/4/11
pH 7.2 oops, no worries, a calcium scaling issue anyways
FC 4.5
CC 0, verifying my good fortune, I’m on the fast track for a shockless season
4/12/11
FC#
CC 0
pH (on 4/10/11) 7.4, I’ll check it tonight, it should be in range, if it is high I’ll get it to 7.5
Temperature 67F
My pool seems stable.
Last year I got a CYA of 50 & that seemed good, so I should repeat that Target I assume? Last year I Targeted CYA of 40 on 6/30/10 but it tested CYA 50 on 7/17/10
TA is a bit low but last season you guys figured (page 4 of this thread Jason Lion) I may be better off a tad lower than the “recommended level†since my pH always creeps up & lowering it reduced the amount of acid needed.
I need to add calcium per ChemGeek (page 5 of this thread) because I have this Calcium scaling issue that I’m going to leave alone until a re-plaster is needed ( tried all kinds of treatments last year, no help, forget it- I can live with the esthetics). There are a couple a ways to ad Calcium. From the Pool Calculator:
“Dichlor and trichlor add CYA and lower pH. Cal-hypo adds CH.â€
“calcium chlorideâ€
“calcium chloride dehydrateâ€
I have on hand most of a 45 lb pail of Leslies Calcium Harness Plus (calcium chloride) more than 2 years old.
1- What is best way to add calcium in my situation (realizing I need CYA too, and assuming you are still happy with my TA at 50)?
2- recommended CH range is CH 250-350, what CH Target should I use?
3- Want Me to Target CYA of 50 or 40?
4- Any order of treatment? I ‘ll get the pH correct first if indicated but for the CYA & CH, any certain order you recommend?
Thanks
4/3/11 – spring opening
pH 7.8
FC 1
CC0.5, no need to shock
TA 50
CH 225-250; lets say 240?
CYA 25
Borates 30 (kind of hard to believe since I only added Borates in 5/2009 but I also had two females read the Borates test strip in 10/2010 and we all agreed on 30)
Temperature 57F
Water clear, typical winter debris on floor
4/4/11
pH 7.2 oops, no worries, a calcium scaling issue anyways
FC 4.5
CC 0, verifying my good fortune, I’m on the fast track for a shockless season
4/12/11
FC#
CC 0
pH (on 4/10/11) 7.4, I’ll check it tonight, it should be in range, if it is high I’ll get it to 7.5
Temperature 67F
My pool seems stable.
Last year I got a CYA of 50 & that seemed good, so I should repeat that Target I assume? Last year I Targeted CYA of 40 on 6/30/10 but it tested CYA 50 on 7/17/10
TA is a bit low but last season you guys figured (page 4 of this thread Jason Lion) I may be better off a tad lower than the “recommended level†since my pH always creeps up & lowering it reduced the amount of acid needed.
I need to add calcium per ChemGeek (page 5 of this thread) because I have this Calcium scaling issue that I’m going to leave alone until a re-plaster is needed ( tried all kinds of treatments last year, no help, forget it- I can live with the esthetics). There are a couple a ways to ad Calcium. From the Pool Calculator:
“Dichlor and trichlor add CYA and lower pH. Cal-hypo adds CH.â€
“calcium chlorideâ€
“calcium chloride dehydrateâ€
I have on hand most of a 45 lb pail of Leslies Calcium Harness Plus (calcium chloride) more than 2 years old.
1- What is best way to add calcium in my situation (realizing I need CYA too, and assuming you are still happy with my TA at 50)?
2- recommended CH range is CH 250-350, what CH Target should I use?
3- Want Me to Target CYA of 50 or 40?
4- Any order of treatment? I ‘ll get the pH correct first if indicated but for the CYA & CH, any certain order you recommend?
Thanks
1) calcium chloride or calcium chloride dehydrate or calcium increaser or whatever you can find at a good price.
2) 300 is fine, so is 350. Doesn't really matter between those two.
3) 50 is good to aim for at the start of the season. It will fall slowly.
4) PH and FC are always first, then CYA, then TA, and only last CH. Unless TA is below 40, then TA first.
2) 300 is fine, so is 350. Doesn't really matter between those two.
3) 50 is good to aim for at the start of the season. It will fall slowly.
4) PH and FC are always first, then CYA, then TA, and only last CH. Unless TA is below 40, then TA first.