Pool Opened Green, turned white Cloudy will not clear

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BBB is really about understanding what chemicals your pool needs, and only adding those chemicals that your pool needs. The acronym is kinda out dated, or at least could have some other letters added to it, but it has stuck as a label for the method of testing your water and adding only what you need.

I understand it's frustrating having spent 2 weeks, why don't you enjoy the lake, and when you have some down time read and re-read Pool School. Keep a look out for the big ones! :shark:
 
Well when they gave me those numbers they told me to wait and let the filter work.

They did sell me the clarifier and sand helper which they said might speed it up, but to give it time. It was more of my idea to add the clarifier since I had just gone from green to white. So besides the little bit of clarifier all I added before last night was DE and Sand helper. At that point I was assuming filtration problem, but when I saw no visible improvement despite trying to get the filter to "speed up". I began to decide filtration was not my problem.

The in the swim opening kit = my idea
The 5lbs of PH down after reading above 8 = pool stores idea, and this actually worked as my ph went down
The green to clean & shock afterwards, I ordered from in the swim = my idea
The clarifier = my idea
The DE = My idea after reading about it on this forum
The "Sand Helper", which is the same as DE but cellulose based = pool stores idea
The 18lbs of shock added the night of 5/23 = my idea in a desperate attempt to "break point" chlorinate the system and also hopefully break a chlorine demand issue, which at the time I didn't understand needed follow up treatments - now I do.


So the bottom line is I think those numbers are accurate based on my interaction with the pool store, the chemical buying has mostly been my own doing/undoing. The other important infomation is those numbers are from Tuesday 5/21. I haven't gotten them tested since because I was "letting the filter work"

At this point the filter has been running and nothing changed, so now it seem the only thing left I haven't tried is testing for the chlorine demand issue. I wanted to avoid that because i can't test ever 2 hours or so because I work in an office, however I guess my wife will soon become an expert when we get the kit.

So just to sum up - based on the advice of the this thread here is my plan. Let me know if anything is seriously wrong with it:

1. Friday - Drain pool 1/2, refill. Add 1 gallon of bleach. Run pump 24X7
2. Saturday - add 1 gallon of bleach, continue running pump
3. Sunday - add 1 gallon of bleach, continue running pump
4. Monday - add 1 gallon of bleach, continue running pump
5. Tuesday until delivery of test kit - add 1 gallon of bleach, continue running pump.
6. Test kit arrival day - post results and then hit pool methodically as directed by advice on board with extreme prejudice and without mercy to microsocopic particles


Does this sound like the proper plan to maximize time to resolution, given the best information we have available at this time?

if not let me know where I am thinking about it wrong.
 
Your plan should get you through until your kit arrives and then the all out assault on the water starts.

We aren't in the business of bashing pool store people here. Not all of them are bad, but there's been enough experience spread around to lean the members here more toward figuring out what their water needs for themselves versus asking someone else to figure it out for them.

I occasionally think about testing my water a few times to make sure I'm not miss reading anything and then taking a sample to the local pool stores (we have 2 in town) and seeing what they tell me. I think they can tell pretty quickly if you know anything about the chemistry of your pool or if they are going to be able to push any product off on you.
 
Earlier you were going to add 3 gallons per day, which someone wrote would add 6PPM if added all at once. Is your bleach 6%?

Seems to me that 1 gallon per day of 6% which would raise 30,000 ~ 2 PPM is not going to be very much Chlorine added. I doubt the 10 PPM you had on the 21st is still in there but who knows?
 
switched to 1 per day to not waste money shooting in the dark, but still a backup plan for not losing clean water after the refill.

The refill is done. Water is much clearer, but is still hazy. Clear in shallow end but hazy in the deep end. I can see the blurry/fuzzy image of my pool vac at about 10'.

Any advice to maintain/improve between now and test kit arrival time? Keep adding 1 gal bleach?
 
Besides listening to these guys the best advice I can offer is to make a chart. The simple pool app helps too. Use the chart and look it over. Learn the trends. For me 1 sunny day is 1ppm of chloro loss. A heavy rain does the same. A day of swimming 3 kids 2 adults adds .5 ppm loss of chloro. Adding 10 oz of chloro is about 1 ppm increase for me. As long as my levels are good these are my bible. SO a typical day with no problems I add 10 oz of chloro and thats it. These will be different for you. I have them on my chart to remind me. Check levels everyday. Also incorporate it into your life. If I know am going to be away from the pool for 2 days and am comfortable with my trends I look at the weather and add accordingly. I brush the pool everyday we do not swim. Also keep up on debris. It is easier to keep a properly functioning pool then to save time by skipping a few minutes of brushing and checking the levels. The test kits tf-100 are great. Get the bean, the spinning mixer thing. Got it this year and wondered how I lived without it.
 
Ok, still waiting on the test kit, but decided to take a trip to the pool store to get my levels read. Here is the information I got:

Pool Testing Device: Waterlink DataMate 10
Free Chlorine: OVR 18.02 ppm (appears to be above the highest reading possible for the test device)
Total Chlorine: OVR 18.02 ppm (appears to be above the highest reading possible for the test device)
Combined Chlorine: 0 ppm
pH: 7.2
Hardness: 187 ppm
Alkalinity: 67 ppm
Cyanuric Acid: 64 ppm
Copper: .1 ppm
Iron: .1 ppm

The pool store says my pH is low, and alkalinity is low. The also are saying my Chlorine level is very very high. The test read out says: "Free Available Chlorine level is above the recommended range. Do no use the pool until the chlorine level is within the ideal range"

So assuming these numbers are accurate, what should I do, buy a bunch of Borax and Baking soda to bring the ph back up?
 
Have you bothered to read pool school to learn about all these chemicals yet? If not, why?

Having your own test kit (I prefer the TF-100) is about having accurate, reproducible test results which means you're taking charge of your pool and as a result it will be less expensive and healthier water. The pool store's motivation for water testing is to sell you chemicals. I was actually in a pool store today to buy a new extending pole and was listening to a woman who didn't appear very flush with money being told she needed mass quantities of chemicals. If I'd had a piece of paper and pen I would have written this website down and slipped it to her with the message to check it out.

You need to put in *enough* (which certainly may be more than one bottle) of bleach to cover daily loss as well as keeping whatever is living in that water at bay until you get your ducks in a row and are ready to take charge. Otherwise you might have wasted a LOT of money tossing in extra chemicals that you later decide to drain out. You may have wasted a lot of time too.
 
Umm, I ordered my kit. Its not here yet. I have read the pool school articles and how to get rid of algae. The previous discussions about pool store chicanery has been hashed out in previous posts on this thread. The bottom line is I have put most of the chemicals in at my own behest rather than the pool store, so I feel their a fairly honest shop. I haven't had too much interaction with them to be honest.

There was some questions as to the accuracy of their testing, so I posted the device they used to test. Once I get my kit, i'll begin testing with that.

Until then, the number I just posted are the best I have to determine what to do next. The last post said I had such a high level of CYA that I had to drain half my pool water. I did that and refilled it. These are the updated numbers:

Pool Testing Device: Waterlink DataMate 10
Free Chlorine: OVR 18.02 ppm (appears to be above the highest reading possible for the test device)
Total Chlorine: OVR 18.02 ppm (appears to be above the highest reading possible for the test device)
Combined Chlorine: 0 ppm
pH: 7.2
Hardness: 187 ppm
Alkalinity: 67 ppm
Cyanuric Acid: 64 ppm
Copper: .1 ppm
Iron: .1 ppm


My CYA level is down from the previous reading, now my free chlorine is off the chart.

the water is better clarity wise, but is still very hazy. I can see my pool vac 10 feet down, but its fuzzy. If I remove the pool vac I can't really make out my main drain.

What is left to get the pool clear? it seems like with the CYA levels down now and chlorine way high, the algae should be gone soon and everything fine, but it doesn't seem to be clearing any further.

Am I possibly back to a filtration/filter problem?
 

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mihalakj said:
What is left to get the pool clear? it seems like with the CYA levels down now and chlorine way high, the algae should be gone soon and everything fine, but it doesn't seem to be clearing any further.

Am I possibly back to a filtration/filter problem?
Click to expand...

Sand takes a while yet will work. So perhaps that's all it is! Patience, Grasshopper :)
I know people here have written about adding a bit of DE to your sand filter to help but I don't know enough on that to say. Might be worth reading up here about it in case it would serve your needs. Just keep the CL level up and running your filter enough with back washing if needed (20-25% over baseline pressure).
 
Yippie,

I appreciate you attempting to assist me on here, but it seems you haven't read about all my efforts thus far.

I've tried the DE and the new sand has been in there for over 2 weeks. No improvement has been seen other than the drain 1/2 way and refill.
 
Looking forward to seeing your test results when you get your kit. Hang in there. "If" those PS numbers are correct I'd say your ph is at the low end of acceptable range for the shock process.
 
My suggestions are all going to be qualified, since we don't trust pool store results...

pH of 7.2 is fine
TA around 70 is fine.
FC might or might not be fine, depending on your CYA level. The CYA test is the one that pool stores screw up the most, so I would tend to not believe it.

As for the clearing of the water, yes, it's going to take awhile. Sand just takes longer. If your FC/CYA ratio is correct, then all the algae is dead and you're just waiting for it to clear. If the FC/CYA ratio is not correct, then you could be allowing algae carcasses develop at the same rate you're filtering them out. Until you get your own test results, we just don't know.
 
With sand, it can take a while to clear. This assumes one has reached the proper shock level, and the ONLY way to confirm that is with your own kit.

I do believe there are SOME pool stores (and respective employees) who really BELIEVE what they are saying. They just don't know any better, and haven't looked to see if they are correct. They are regurgitating information that was fed to them. Plain and simple. How many have hands on put their methods to practical use?
I began shocking a pool with a sand filter on Monday last week. By Friday we could see the bottom, though fuzzy. FC was holding overnight from Thursday on. Its there, waiting for the "after" pic...clear as a glass.... as soon as the weather will cooperate and I can get there and do the final vac. Proper shock, and DE in the filter. That's all.
 
It seems like the folks who started helping me at the beginning of this thread haven't returned in a while, so let me update the timeline of everything I've done for my pool since opening it. Pool pump/filter has been running 24X7 since 5/12.

5/12 - Opened it. Green swampy conditions.
5/13 - Used 30000 gal/super start up kit version of in the swim pool opening kit: model Y6200 http://www.intheswim.com/Pool-Chemicals ... ine-Shock/
5/13 - Put in 2 quarts of the algaecide in the kit, put pump on recirculation for 24 hours
5/14 - Put in 4 lb of shock from kit, followed by 2 quarts of rust/stain scale preventer & clarifier a few hours later. Pool stayed green, with slight green color improvement
5/15 - Pool store test showed PH really high, over 8. Put in PH down (5 lbs?). PH returned to normal 7-8 range.
5/16 - Put in "Green to Clean": http://www.intheswim.com/Pool-Chemicals ... To-Clean-/
5/16 - Put in 7 lbs of shock shortly after putting in Green to Clean. Green colored water turned to cloudy white/blue.
5/17 - vacuumed to waste most of the ****
5/18 - Water was not clearing white cloudy. Started to believe I had a filtration problem
5/18 - Replaced Sand in Sand filter (all 300lbs). Put in pool vacuum
5/19 - In the past usually can see improvement in clarity, did not see this, so I added DE to the Filter, about 12oz.
5/20 - Still no improvement in clarity, bought pool store clarifier & "sand helper". Put in 8oz of magic blue clarifier. Also added about 12oz of "Sand Helper" after backwash of DE out.
5/21 morning - Still no improvement - Losing patience so I put in a s-ton of DE. Not sure probably 24-36oz.
5/21 afternoon - Still no improvement - Pump pressure can't be determined, but based on flow and operation of spa jets in pool, seems like flow is not strong. Backwashed out DE. Put in 12 oz of sand helper.
5/22 - Still no improvement. decided to not do anything and give the pool time.
5/23 morning - Still no improvement. Decide to wait until I get home from work.
5/23 late night - reading about chlorine demand and break point chlorination. Don't have anything besides pool test strips. In a rage of futility I run to Lowes and buy more shock to put in, in addition to extra shock I have on hand. In total I put in 18lbs of shock. Here are the kinds I put in:
4 lbs of standard in the swim shock: http://www.intheswim.com/Pool-Chemicals ... ool-Shock/
4 lbs of Lowes "shock plus": http://www.lowes.com/pd_34629-1772-2210 ... facetInfo=
10 lbs of Lowes "Shock X-tra blue": http://www.lowes.com/pd_254293-1772-228 ... facetInfo=
5/24 - I start this thread due to being defeated. Forum members describe my pool test results as not reliable however, if they are reliable they suggest I drain half the pool and refill.
5/24 - I order my Test Kit from TroubleFree Pool.
5/24 - I drain 1/2 my 30000 gal pool.
5/24 - I begin refilling. Put in one gal of bleach
5/25 - Still refilling. Put in one gal of bleach
5/26 - Still refilling. Put in one gal of bleach
5/27 - Refill completed. Put in one gal of bleach. Finally I see improvement, which is no doubt due to half the water being replaced. I can see the bottom of my pool but its still fuzzy.
5/28 - No improvement since refill. Still waiting for test kit. Decide to go to pool store to get updated "pool store" numbers. Pool store numbers are:
Pool Testing Device: Waterlink DataMate 10
Free Chlorine: OVR 18.02 ppm (appears to be above the highest reading possible for the test device)
Total Chlorine: OVR 18.02 ppm (appears to be above the highest reading possible for the test device)
Combined Chlorine: 0 ppm
pH: 7.2
Hardness: 187 ppm
Alkalinity: 67 ppm
Cyanuric Acid: 64 ppm
Copper: .1 ppm
Iron: .1 ppm
5/29 - No improvement since refill. Still waiting for test kit. Hopefully it arrives today.
 
if your cya is 64ppm, you should have the fc level at 24ppm to shock the pool. so technically you need to add more chlorine and keep it there.
pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

once you get your kit, you need to do the Overnight Chlorine lost test. if it fails, you keep the pool at shock level until it passes.
pool-school/overnight_fc_test

btw, your pump should be running 24/7 and you need to install a new pressure gauge.
 
Ok, so got the test kit, and let me tell you - doing the full test sucks. it takes about 1 hour to complete if done carefully. Here are the numbers I recorded from the test:

FC = 45ppm
CC = 0ppm
TC = 45ppm
TA = 110
CH = 520
CYA = 60
pH = 7.2

What next?
 
For now, I've only got two suggestions...

1. Brush, often. FC is doing it's thing, so brush to mix and dislodge dead algae.

2. Watch your filter pressure. You will likely need to backwash often. If the pressure out of the return slows down, you're not moving water through the system and not filtering anything out. Do you know your gauge numbers? What's your clean pressure, and when will you backwash?
 

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