Pool Math

Oct 7, 2015
86
Adelaide, Australia
Hi,

Just wondering what the different goal levels are between TroubleFreePool.com and Traditional Pool setup?

Also, I have just taken my latest pool readings and am not sure what I should be trying to adjust first. I should also mention that I could not complete a couple of tests as my testers are out of date and not giving reasonable levels anymore, either that or the pool is that far out of whack that I will be crying if the measurements are true?

Currently

CL = 0.0 I have an SWG and have only just got the salt levels back to where they should be so hopefully chlorine will now start to be produced again?
PH = 7.9
TA = 110ppm
Salt = 4600 ppm
CH = 2500+ Which I'm hoping is not accurate. I gave up at 100 drops of solution.

I should add that I have bought an el-cheapo test kit to use to compare with my out of date kit just so as I can see how true my old test kit is still, but unfortunately, the new kit lacks a couple of those extra tests that we all like to also test.

Cheers,
John
 
Are you using the Poolmath app or the Poolmath page on the TFP site? Which kit are you using that has the old reagents, and how out of date is it? Is your area known for hard water? What is the current water temperature?
 
Full faith in advertising here,
The “Traditional Pool” goals are more or less only there because it’s WAY more work to remove/edit them as opposed to simply ignoring they even exist. They served some purpose many moons ago however today should be ignored. If you wish to use the webpage I’d suggest using the “Trouble Free” levels as those are what matches the forum. Additionally I’d recommend downloading the Pool Math App as it includes additional options not found on the website.
 
Are you using the Poolmath app or the Poolmath page on the TFP site? Which kit are you using that has the old reagents, and how out of date is it? Is your area known for hard water? What is the current water temperature?

Hi,
I'm using the webpage atm, and have a NQ-100 test kit which is probably 12 months out of date, but it's hard to tell as there are no dates on the bottles, but I've had the kit for about 2 years or so.
No not known for hard water, and the water temp currently is 26C.

Cheers,
John
 
Full faith in advertising here,
The “Traditional Pool” goals are more or less only there because it’s WAY more work to remove/edit them as opposed to simply ignoring they even exist. They served some purpose many moons ago however today should be ignored. If you wish to use the webpage I’d suggest using the “Trouble Free” levels as those are what matches the forum. Additionally, I’d recommend downloading the Pool Math App as it includes additional options not found on the website.

Hi,
Thanks for that, I shall ignore the "traditional pool" setup. Yes have been using the webpage but also do have the app but was not aware of any differences between the two, so thanks for the heads up, I shall use the app more often. I have been looking for an excel spreadsheet to record my data and came across one on this website which is also linked (I think) to PoolMath. It was created by Mark (mas985), but I'm not sure how relevant it is these days?

Cheers,
John
 
What is your CYA? Your CYA level determines your FC according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].

You should add liquid chlorine and get your FC up to target then your SWG will keep it thete. Waiting for your SWG to raise your FC over time exposes your water to algae growth.
 
What is your CYA? Your CYA level determines your FC according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].

You should add liquid chlorine and get your FC up to target then your SWG will keep it there. Waiting for your SWG to raise your FC over time exposes your water to algae growth.

Hi Allen,

CYA is also one of the tests which have expired in my kit, but then again I have always struggled with that particular test as I don't ever seem to be able to get that black dot to disappear in the bottom of the test tube?

Yes, I have been adding liquid chlorine once or twice a week to keep the algae away, but have only just got my salt levels up to where they should be after adding 100 Kg of salt. Tonight I will dose it again.

Cheers,
John
 
Do you know how much stabilizer was ever added to the water? Do you expect you have CYA in the water?

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. If it helps, pour a little, look away, then look back and pour some more. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading. If you are still questioning your own results, have a friend or two do the same test 2-3 times. Share your results only after everyone is done to see if you came up with the same average results.
 
CYA is not naturally occurring in the water. It only increases if you add it. CYA is lost by dilution and splashout. CYA is added if you use trichlor pucks for CL. If you have not added CYA in your water for a while the level is probably low.

You can purchase CYA standard solution to practice on. Some folks find it helpful to see what CYA 50 looks like testing with the standard solution.

Get new reagents, buy some Stabilizer, and purchase some CYA standard solution. If your water continues to show no CYA then use PoolMath to determine how much Stablizer to add for 30 ppm and add it by the “sock method”. Don’t pour it in the skimmer as many directions say to do.

Add the 30 ppm of Stabilizer and let it dissolve for a few days and retest. Once you see you get a reading in your test then add more Stabilizer in two or three doses to get your CYA up to 70 for your SWG to operate properly.
 

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