Pool Light Install Lessons Learned

Oct 5, 2016
25
San Diego/CA
New Build in CA and I'm installing the Easytouch 8, SWG, 3 Intellibrite pool lights and 1 Spa light myself in order to get to save some money which can be used elsewhere in the build and to get the exact setup that I want. You also get the additional benefit of really understanding your pool setup and functionality post-construction.

Yesterday I installed the lights and found that it would have been much easier if I limited the conduit to about 2 90s maximun before pulling. I have 80-95' runs with 2, 90 sweeps in the last 8 feet leading to the ET8. After attempting several times on the first light to make the entire run with a fish tape from the niche I cut all of my PVC conduit just before the 2-90s and the job was a breeze. I then used a coupler and reattached the last section with cable in it.

Lesson Learned - Limit 90s before fishing or install conductor at the same time as the conduit, piece by piece. I decided against the later in order to avoid the conductors coming in contact to wet PVC cement. I bet that this method is to blame for some of the light change-out horror stories I've heard. Conductor glued to conduit can't be a good thing, right?

Also, once through pull conductor about 4 to 5 feet from niche and j-box to make sure that the conductor is not binding anywhere before final install. This would be the time to catch a stuck conductor before back-filling trenches and pouring decking.

Question - Can anyone else share how what precaution or steps they would take to make future light change outs easier? I assume that the lights are a typical failure on a pool, so I want to make sure that I am not a future horror story :)


  1. Run pull cord with conductor?
  2. Use putty to plug the wet niche conduit hole?

Thanks!
 
Just curious... Are the intellibrites replaceable bulbs?

My last pool 15 years ago I swapped the bulbs with leds that never had an issue. Really cool just turning the lights on and off quickly set to new color or color scheme. . We loved them.

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IMG_0073.jpg

I thought I'd post some pictures of the install. As you can see I had to cut the conduit just before my two final 90s to make fishing easier. In this picture I have reconnected one conduit with a coupler.

- - - Updated - - -

The Intellibrites are LEDs. I hope there won't be any issues in the future :)

Just curious... Are the intellibrites ceable bulbs?

My last pool 15 years ago I swapped the bulbs with leds that never had an issue. Really cool just turning the lights on and off quickly set to new color or color scheme. . We loved them.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
Sounds like very good tips you posted for those that like to DIY. I like that you seem to be planning for the future and doing all you can to make that easier.

I would like to offer you a tip. Easier to go ahead and do it now than later.
At some point in the future as you are planning for, you'll want to remove the light for either cleaning behind it, replacement or whatever.

I can almost guarantee you with certainty, you won't be able to remove that brass screw that holds the light bezel on. For whatever reason, it's not easy to get out. In the process the slots on the head will strip and you'll end up having to use an air drill and drill out the screw.

Do yourself a favor, go ahead and replace that phillips head screw with a stainless steel pan head set screw that uses an allen wrench. You will love yourself for it. You can use a socket head set screw also, but the pan head is prettier.

I learned this the hard way.
 
Since the newer niches require a #8 ground wire along with the light cord you need to use a minimum 3/4in. Conduit and most pool electricians use 1in. They also heat the pipe to make there sweeps instead of glueing couplings and sweeps on the pipe. This helps eliminate snags inside conduit.
 
And you can install the conduit with a rope or wire. Then use the rope to pull through the light cable later.

Very few few and very gentle curves are key.

Also, someone feeding the cable into the hole in the pool while someone else pulles can make a difference.
 
That is a great point and probably the easiest way to install. Great Lesson Learned!

Thx!





And you can install the conduit with a rope or wire. Then use the rope to pull through the light cable later.

Very few few and very gentle curves are key.

Also, someone feeding the cable into the hole in the pool while someone else pulles can make a difference.

- - - Updated - - -

Does anyone have any feedback regarding using putty to plug the wet niche conduit hole so that the water stays in the niche rather than filling conduit? Is this a good idea?

Also that about installing a pull line for later light change out use?

Thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

Does anyone have any feedback regarding using putty to plug the wet niche conduit hole so that the water stays in the niche rather than filling conduit? Is this a good idea?

Also that about installing a pull line for later light change out use?

Thanks!​





 
Hi,
Yes, 1" conduit is the norm, most electricians heat so few tight 90's. looks like you may of used 3/4". Hard to tell in photos.
I wouldn't seal the conduit. If you glued it well, it wont leak. Hopefully you left enough cord at light to make it reach the surface of the pool for maintence.
Also did you get a Potting compound for the bond wire connection inside the niche? It has to be completely encapsulated.
 
Hi Just-a-Pb

I used 3/4" and the heat gun I had was taking forever, so I decided to use sweeps. Not so bad once I cut out the last 2 90s.

I'll forego sealing the conduit since that is the consensus here.

Yep, left enough conductor at the niche to place the niches on the coping for maintenance.

Also got the 3M potting compound.

Thanks for the advice!



Hi,
Yes, 1" conduit is the norm, most electricians heat so few tight 90's. looks like you may of used 3/4". Hard to tell in photos.
I wouldn't seal the conduit. If you glued it well, it wont leak. Hopefully you left enough cord at light to make it reach the surface of the pool for maintence.
Also did you get a Potting compound for the bond wire connection inside the niche? It has to be completely encapsulated.
 

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How did you pass inspection?

First, now before you pour concrete redo this. Make this 25 to 40 foot runs to a pool junction box then a single run back to the pad. Anything over that makes light fixture changes very difficult. Just because they make the lights with 100 foot cords doesn't mean you need to install them.

Don't use putty to seal the hole the code contemplates otherwise and just makes replacement even more difficult.

You've learned why electricians generally use nothing smaller than one inch in this application and 3/4 inch in most other outdoor applications.
 
Hi Gwegan,

Great point to relocate the jbox closer to the pool. There wasn't a location that would have been out of the way which is why I mounted them the way that I did.
I haven't passed electrical yet. Does something standout to you that will cause a failed inspection? The jbox location while it might make future light change outs difficult, is code compliant, right?

How did you pass inspection?

First, now before you pour concrete redo this. Make this 25 to 40 foot runs to a pool junction box then a single run back to the pad. Anything over that makes light fixture changes very difficult. Just because they make the lights with 100 foot cords doesn't mean you need to install them.

Don't use putty to seal the hole the code contemplates otherwise and just makes replacement even more difficult.

You've learned why electricians generally use nothing smaller than one inch in this application and 3/4 inch in most other outdoor applications.
 
For difficult wire pulls, wrap a few cotton balls in monofilament fishing line. Stuff the cotton balls in one end and place a shop vac over the other end. Once the cotton balls are pulled through with the suction, tie your pull rope to the fishing line and pull it back through.

When you pull the cable, tie a second pull rope to the lead end. When your done pulling the cable, cut the second pull rope and leave it in the pipe. If you ever have to replace the cable in the future, your pipe is already loaded with the pull rope.
 
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