Yes pump should ideally run for 24 hours and preferably in front of a return in a old sock
Pool inspector?
- Thread starter itried
- Start date
10-4 got it going now. Can I adjust all at once or should I wait? I plan on getting CH tomorrow along with some muriatic acid.
pinguy
0
Wait 30 mins to an hour between adding different chemicals to make sure they are fully dissolved, and keep your pump running during that time.
You just want to avoid concentrated chemicals from coming into contact with each other to prevent any reaction.
Just be aware that it takes a week for the CYA to register in your testing after it has been added -just so that you don't overdo the Cya and then have to drain your water.
Sounds good,I believe I read that somewhere
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Thank you, keeps me from checking daily and wasting reagents.
You can use photobucket or such to post pics. OR you could become a TFP supporter to be able to load more pics.
Kim
Kim
Well after having the builder and the plumber come out we found some issues.
1. the bubblers should have had the lil 3/4" sockets installed which reduces flow from the 1.5" pipe 3/4" socket. Right now there just wide open, so im sure that will help. Have the accessory kit ordered and should be installed on friday.
2. They had 1 actuated valve in the wrong place, so thats why when i pushed the spa button on my remote it diverted water to the pool. This issue is fixed and works correctly now.
1. the bubblers should have had the lil 3/4" sockets installed which reduces flow from the 1.5" pipe 3/4" socket. Right now there just wide open, so im sure that will help. Have the accessory kit ordered and should be installed on friday.
2. They had 1 actuated valve in the wrong place, so thats why when i pushed the spa button on my remote it diverted water to the pool. This issue is fixed and works correctly now.
I'm going to enjoy it, even if i have to heat it.. My 6yr old daughter took a dip yesterday, 73 degrees water is to cool for me!
Your weak blubbers remind me of another member that had weak returns until I realized they didn't have eyeballs in them! Will defiantly have to stick that association in the old memory banks.
Yes, im glad someone knew what to look for lol.
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Yes for sure! I thought something looked funny, while looking down on the bubblers i could see the 4 screws and the large pipe. Something seemed odd, it just never clicked until the plumber pointed it out yesterday.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,440
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I thought I saw the valve actuator on the chlorinator loop from the pano shot but I could not blow it up enough to be sure. That would totally explain the SPA problem. As for the missing bubbler hardware, happens more often than you think. All the plumbing hardware has to go in AFTER all the plaster work is done. So often things like eyeball returns, bubblers, spa jets, etc, get forgotten about until someone notices it and say, "hmmm, that's not right". Good thing it's an easy fix.
Now you just have to ditch the puck chlorinator and thing about chemical automation....always more to add to the pool
I thought I saw the valve actuator on the chlorinator loop from the pano shot but I could not blow it up enough to be sure. That would totally explain the SPA problem. As for the missing bubbler hardware, happens more often than you think. All the plumbing hardware has to go in AFTER all the plaster work is done. So often things like eyeball returns, bubblers, spa jets, etc, get forgotten about until someone notices it and say, "hmmm, that's not right". Good thing it's an easy fix.
Now you just have to ditch the puck chlorinator and thing about chemical automation....always more to add to the pool
Will NOT be using the puck chlorinator. I'm going to start looking into some sort of automation. Right now ill be pouring in bleach daily or as needed.