Pool Heater Broke Following Lightning Event

Why is there mud/dirt on the blower?

I suspect that you have multiple issues, which makes it harder to get a good diagnosis.

At 10 years old, you are probably due for a new heater rather than spending a lot of money on parts and a lot of time working on this.

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Took a quick look and I am having a problem following what should be a logical troubleshooting process. Trying to troubleshoot 2 interconnected systems without isolating them from each other would be frustrating ( did see that you jumpered firemans switch, removing easytouch from the heater), but try to address one problem at a time. What seems to be a broken air flow switch would need to be replaced. I would follow James advice regarding a possible flow problem which is causing rumbling when heater does run. Different labeling on the Fenwal may cause some confusion as W and TH are the same and PS and IND are also the same. Multiple problems/failures can also be frustrating. Note that after attempting to fire, the Fenwal has a 1 min postpurge that will run the blower for that timing to clear the combustion chamber with no outside input. Does the blower run more than 1 min after shutdown? Will be happy to chime in if I feel I could be at all helpful.
 
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@JamesW, mud is from Texas mud daubers. Very common here and I wouldn’t attribute it to anything currently wrong. While heater is nearly 10 years old, it has been seldomly used here In the Texas sun and I do think it has some worthwhile life in it. Agree that I don’t want to reinvest $2K for a $5K heater, will assess as I go along. Any parts I buy now can also be used as spares for a new unit if I go that route. I’ve tested the thermal regulator, it does not look it is getting to where it needs to be, even at 130 degrees.

@swamprat69, blower does keep blowing past 1 minute post shutdown.

Appreciate your patience, and will understand if you guys need to move on.

SRM
 

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It looks like the Thermal Regulator is probably bad preventing good water flow through the heat exchanger.

The internal bypass looks ok.

You can leave the thermal regulator out for testing purposes.

Check the blower relay as described.
 
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When the blower comes on, check the Stack Flue Temperature.

Maybe the SFS (Stack Flue Sensor) Temperature Reading is higher than it should be and the blower is being turned on to cool down the heater.

I do not know if that is a thing or not, but it is worth checking.

For example, if the SFS (Stack Flue Sensor) Temperature Reading is 180 degrees F on startup, it might cause the blower to come on, but it is not high enough to cause an error of SFS.

Exhaust Gas Temperature

While running, press and hold the On button to display the exhaust temperature (Older Models).

The new models use the Menu to get the SFS.

Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:

When the blower starts, but before the heater fires, the exhaust should be about equal to the air temperature.

When the heater fires, it should quickly reach an operating temperature of about 300 to 310 degrees.

Below 250 degrees...very low

250 to 290 ..................low

290 to 350.................acceptable

350 to 480 ..................high

Above 480...................error/shutdown.

Note: HD models can be up to 75 degrees higher.

HD models use a cupro nickel exchanger and the efficiency is slightly lower resulting in less heat transfer and more waste heat.

If the exhaust gas temperature is higher then normal then water may be bypassing the heat exchanger through a broken bypass valve.

If you hold down the "pool on" button, it stays on 80, then flashes to 40, then back to 80, then the 80/40 reading and E05 indicate that the board is not getting a reading from the sensor.

It's usually a bad sensor or damaged wires.

The following are the LEDs:

  1. .....PS (Pressure Switch)
  2. .....HLS (High Limit Switch)
  3. .....SFS (Stack Flue Sensor)
  4. .....AFS (Air Flow Switch)
  5. .....AGS (Automatic Gas Shutoff).
  6. .....Service System
  7. .....Thermistor
  8. .....Heating
  9. .....Pool On
  10. ...Spa On
  11. ...Service Heater.
 
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All, I’m taking James’ advice and ordering a new heater. It’s consuming a lot of my time and yours, and given the unknowns, it’s probably the best thing to do in the short and long term. I DO APPRECIATE THE HELP AND SUPPORT YOU HAVE PROVIDED. I’ve learned a ton about the system from you and this forum that I didn’t know more, and I look forward to giving back,
Thanks SRM
 
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That is what gives shopping on eBay a bad name.

Selling used parts whose operation is unknown.
Put the known/unknown conditions in the listing.

Used and possibly defective.

Buy at own risk.

Parts sold as-is.

As long as you are honest about the part's history, the buyer can make an informed decision about whether or not they want to take the risk of buying a potentially defective part.

Maybe offer a 30 day money back guarantee.

If it does not work, send it back for a full refund.

Show good pictures of everything.

The heater core might be sellable if the copper is in good condition.
 
Put the known/unknown conditions in the listing.

Used and possibly defective.

Buy at own risk.

Parts sold as-is.

As long as you are honest about the part's history, the buyer can make an informed decision about whether or not they want to take the risk of buying a potentially defective part.

Maybe offer a 30 day money back guarantee.

If it does not work, send it back for a full refund.
I would bid $1 if the seller pays for the shipping.
 
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