Pool guy put a little too much muriatic acid in my pool....advice please!
- Thread starter CajunGuy
- Start date
TA is not subject to other chemistries when adding. If you start with 40 and add enough to bring to 60, you'll have 60 ppm (provided testing, dosing and pool volume is correct) regardless of pH or any other measurement. How much the pH changes is affected by the current TA level (and borates level) at the time of the change.
Well if the pH is swinging around too much even if I'm only adding small doses, should I then adjust TA first so that I can bring it up to 60 and then adjust pH without having such wide swings? The only other thing I can think of is that the previous owner may have been off on the volume in the pool, but I've asked him twice already and he is certain it is 15,000k gallons. It was just such a HUGE swing after only putting 16 ounces of soda ash, it actually called for 18 ounces. Did I maybe mix it wrong? I got the 55 ounce box of Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda from Walmart. I poured 16 ounces by volume in a measuring bucket and then mixed some tap water in it. Stirred in around for a few minutes and then added mixture little by little in front of return jet. Does this all sound correct?
If you could list the dimensions and shape of your pool or use the Estimating Pool Volume tool on Pool Math, that would maybe give some reinforcement to the pool volume estimate.
As far as pH versus TA adjustment order... When pH is below 7.0 that should always be the priority to adjust first. Either with aeration (if TA is high, aeration will bring pH up) or basic chemical additions (soda ash, washing soda) if TA is also low. Then worry about adjusting TA. You'd rather have the pH swung up a bit high, then adjust TA and observe the pH response rather than leave the pH low while adjusting TA.
From what you've described, it sounds correct what you've done so far. If you can post test results as you proceed, that would be great.
As far as pH versus TA adjustment order... When pH is below 7.0 that should always be the priority to adjust first. Either with aeration (if TA is high, aeration will bring pH up) or basic chemical additions (soda ash, washing soda) if TA is also low. Then worry about adjusting TA. You'd rather have the pH swung up a bit high, then adjust TA and observe the pH response rather than leave the pH low while adjusting TA.
From what you've described, it sounds correct what you've done so far. If you can post test results as you proceed, that would be great.
Also, should I turn my two waterfalls off and maybe only put them on if we are having guest over to swim or a party? The spa overflow will have to stay on regardless, but I'm thinking maybe not having those two extra waterfalls on everyday while the pump is running would help with the pH swings. I know it will bring the pH up a bit faster over time right having those waterfalls on too (aeration)?
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,768
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
When measuring, 16 ounces by volume and 16 ounces by weight are two different things. When it's a liquid Pool Math refers to fluid ounces, which is really a volume measure not a weight. When it's a granular material like borax, washing soda, CYA, the measurements are in actual weight, not volume. That could be throwing you off a little, but still doesn't account for the large differences you are seeing it your results.
The US should just join the rest of the civilized world and use the metric system. We are down to us, Liberia and Myanmar that are the holdouts.
The US should just join the rest of the civilized world and use the metric system. We are down to us, Liberia and Myanmar that are the holdouts.
Pool Math does state both dosing amounts by weight and by volume and I believe CajunGuy used the volume number from the Pool Math page. I myself never like using the volume option for solid, powdered or granular chemicals because of the density variation. I always use weight for those. I think those volumes listed are good estimates and likely "close enough" but I'd rather go by weight. I also hate that there are ounces and fluid ounces... confuses the weight versus volume dosing.
THAT could have been the problem! Thank you all....you guys rock! I used 16 ounces by VOLUME of soda ash, pouring the powder up to the 16 ounce line. I didn't realize when using SOLIDS/POWDERS/GRANULES that I should be using WEIGHT instead. Next time I will use my food scale and adjust by weight instead! Unless I'm using liquids right?
Update: After adding a little MA this morning, I rechecked just now when I got home from work and pH is now 7.4 (great huh!?) and TA is 50. So now should I just add some baking soda to bring that TA up to 70?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,011
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You did good to lower pH. A TA of 50 us not too critical at the moment. You could just keep an eye on it for a couple days. The lower TA might also help the pH stay down as well. Just a thought. If you did feel the need to increase TA, then yes, baking soda is the one. 
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,768
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
With a salt water pool you want a lower TA. It helps stabilize the ever rising pH caused by the salt cell. 60 is usually my target TA, but 50 should be okay. Just keep an eye you on your CSI.