Pool Cover Anchors in grass, pavers, gravel, etc

[Thurston]

I'm hoping someone on here has tried this and can let me know how it went.

My pool deck is about half brick (on compacted gravel and sand, polymetric sand joints), half loose stone on top of compacted gravel... less than ideal for the brass anchors to support the mesh safety cover I want to install.

There are anchor tubes available online that are supposed to be used for installation in grass, pavers, etc. They range from about 8" to 18" long. I've also seen directions to install 4" diameter concrete columns whenever an anchor needs to be in grass.

What I haven't seen is a forum post, video, or anything else where someone has used a method for installing the anchors using these or any other methods, for better or worse.

Anybody here?

 

[Bperry]

I'm hoping someone on here has tried this and can let me know how it went.

My pool deck is about half brick (on compacted gravel and sand, polymetric sand joints), half loose stone on top of compacted gravel... less than ideal for the brass anchors to support the mesh safety cover I want to install.

There are anchor tubes available online that are supposed to be used for installation in grass, pavers, etc. They range from about 8" to 18" long. I've also seen directions to install 4" diameter concrete columns whenever an anchor needs to be in grass.

What I haven't seen is a forum post, video, or anything else where someone has used a method for installing the anchors using these or any other methods, for better or worse.

Anybody here?

My cover has two anchors that were set in dirt using metal tubes. They used move around quite a bit until I encased them in concrete. I’d get the longest version they have if you place them in soil.

Actually I’m not sure how mine would work in grass that had to be mowed, unless they were driven in flush with the base soil. I’d have trouble finding them in that case. Maybe there’s other styles?

 

[Thurston]

My cover has two anchors that were set in dirt using metal tubes. They used move around quite a bit until I encased them in concrete. I’d get the longest version they have if you place them in soil.

Actually I’m not sure how mine would work in grass that had to be mowed, unless they were driven in flush with the base soil. I’d have trouble finding them in that case. Maybe there’s other styles?

Thanks! What length did you use (if you remember) and how much concrete did you end up using per tube?

These won't be in grass but I figured others might have and it's close enough to what I'm doing.

 

[Bperry]

Thanks! What length did you use (if you remember) and how much concrete did you end up using per tube?

These won't be in grass but I figured others might have and it's close enough to what I'm doing.

Mine were installed in a dirt waterfall area next to the pool. They are about 16” long, but i didn’t measure them. Instead of pouring a tube underground I poured a slight extension to the decking and encased them in that.

 

[Thurston]

Anyone else? BPerry's method looks like it will work great, but he really just extended his concrete deck, which isn't possible in my case.

 

[newdude]

I debated not drilling the patio on the short sides and would have dug concrete footers using 6 inch cardboard tubes to ensure the anchors never moved. I would have leveled them a hair below grade to cover them with mulch or something nicer to look at then cement, but still had access to the anchors when needed.

The cover guy swore the long tubes wouldn't budge but we get heavy rain and the ground gets soft so he was just looking to sink them quickly and be done.

 

[JamesW]

Here is a suggestion:

Dig a hole about 27” deep and about 4” in diameter.

Put the paver tube in the center and pour concrete around the tube to about 2” below the ground level.

Once the concrete begins to set up, pull out the tube so that there is a hole in the center of the concrete.

You can use release agent on the tube to make sure it slides out.

Do not pull the tube all the way out, just make sure that it can slide up and down.

Do not pull the tube too early or too late.

The concrete has to be partly set up, but not fully set up.

If you pull too early, the hole will collapse.

If you pull too late, the tube can get locked in place.

A release agent will help lubricate the tube for easy movement.

You want a smooth hole that the tube exactly fits into perfectly and slides up and down with no extra space around the tube where dirt can get in the gaps.

Maybe gently lift or rotate to make sure that the tube does not get locked in place.

Once the concrete sets up, you can slide the tube up and cover the concrete with dirt to the regular ground level.

Then, you can slide the tube up or down as needed.

For closing, slide the tube up, unscrew the anchor and attach the spring.

For opening, screw down the anchor and slide the tube down until the top is at ground level and out of the way.

Do one tube first to make sure that it is going to work correctly.

The green line is grass.

The brown line is the ground.

 

[newdude]

Gently wiggle it occasionally also. The concrete will expand a little while curing and grab a hold of the anchor pipe. You want a little play or you'll never be able to adjust anchor heights.

A wrap or two of seran/cling wrap will keep the cement from attaching directly to the tube besides the squeezing issue.