Pool Closed

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Jayrice1

0
Jul 2, 2017
81
Lakewood
We have not opened our above ground pool for 10 years. Finally decided to the pool, MY OH MY what did I sign up for. It has taken me 2 weeks to get the leave out. It has also cost me $330 on pool chemicals to no avail. The Pool is not extremely cloudy it looks milky, still cant see the bottom we have put over 20 gal of chlorine in the pool between vacuuming and adding water to pool. I was told my the pool store to Floc the pool started this process this morning

Chemicals pool test strip
TH 250
TC 0
FC 1
PH 7.2
TA 120
STAB 0

I would love to have a trouble free pool and save some money this summer
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! Once you get all the floc out of the pool, you can begin the SLAM Process process to help get it clear. First thing I would recommend is a good high quality test kit, such as a TF 100 . This will allow you to take control of your pool and not have to rely on a pool store for advice, (which is often very expensive).

You need to get at least 30ppm of CYA/stabilizer in the pool, so the FC will be used oxidizing debris in the pool and not just getting burned off by UV from the sun. As for your chlorine source, liquid chlorine is best since it doesn't add anything you don't need to the water. You can use pool store liquid chlorine or you can use plain unscented 8% bleach from the grocery store.

If you have a sand filter it probably needs to be deep cleaned after sitting for so many years. You may want to deep clean it after the floc has been cleaned up, to make sure it is all out of the filter.
 
How much bleach do I need and what type of stabilizer. I would to try the Borax method if it cut down on cost. The Sand Filter is new

Thanks
Jacqueline





zea3 said:
Hi, welcome to TFP! Once you get all the floc out of the pool, you can begin the SLAM Process process to help get it clear. First thing I would recommend is a good high quality test kit, such as a TF 100 . This will allow you to take control of your pool and not have to rely on a pool store for advice, (which is often very expensive).

You need to get at least 30ppm of CYA/stabilizer in the pool, so the FC will be used oxidizing debris in the pool and not just getting burned off by UV from the sun. As for your chlorine source, liquid chlorine is best since it doesn't add anything you don't need to the water. You can use pool store liquid chlorine or you can use plain unscented 8% bleach from the grocery store.

If you have a sand filter it probably needs to be deep cleaned after sitting for so many years. You may want to deep clean it after the floc has been cleaned up, to make sure it is all out of the filter.
Click to expand...
 
BBB is a old term, bleach baking soda borax, we like TFPC, trouble free pool care, since is more accurately describes the process as many people don't need borax or baking soda.

What you need to do is a slam, after that pool care will consist of bleach, brushing, and testing.

1. Order a test kit, tf100 with xl or Taylor 2006c only
 
If your pool has been sitting for 10 years, you will need a lot of bleach. I don't know how much.

Stabilizer is sold by Walmart or pool stores, sometimes called conditioner, look for the ingredient "cyanuric acid".

You will need to familiarize yourself with the SLAM process. And you will need a fas-dpd chlorine test kit (they come with the test kits recommended on tfp) to clear this up. Read up on slamming in the pool school section. Essentially you raise the chlorine to "shock level" and keep it there until your water is beautiful, by testing and adding chlorine several times a day. Your shock level depends on your cya(stabilizer) level. With 30ppm cya, your shock level will be 12ppm chlorine. The test kit is necessary because strips and the oto test can't read chlorine that high, and you never want to let chlorine drop below 12.

Until you get the test kit, you should add the necessary cya asap, and one gallon of bleach daily, and keep the pump running. You also need to make sure that you have gotten all the leaves and debris out. Anything organic will just eat the chlorine.

If you happen to have an aquarium ammonia test, you can run that too. Ammonia in water is solved by adding chlorine so if you don't have the test, don't buy one, since you'll be adding large amounts of chlorine anyway... It's just nice to know if you can test for it.
 
Thanks I just finished vacuuming up the floc. I put a suggested amount of stabilizer in a sock and put it in front of the return flow. Am I to wait until the recommended CYA level is reached before I put in the bleach?

- - - Updated - - -

I used the poolmath it's suggesting I use borax????
 

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You can use the bleach as the cya is dissolving.

Chlorine works better at low ph, adding borax will raise ph. 7.2 is a safe ph for your equipment so you don't need to raise it up until it's ready to swim in. When it's swimmable, 7.4-7.8 are ideal as they "feel" better on the skin and eyes.
 
PoolMath has a couple of default settings when you first open it up. Zero out the borates entries and it won't recommend anything. You can and should go ahead and add bleach as if the CYA level you are shooting for is already attained. If you are dosing the pool to reach 30ppm CYA then use that as your CYA value to calculate how much bleach to add.
 
I have not gotten my test kit yet but I've noticed that the suction from the skimmer basket to the pump is really low I can remove the basket without turning off pump. the pressure on the filter is high after backwashing it used to start with the PSI 09 but lately I'm starting with the PSI 12 after backwashing. Since my last post I've been vacuuming daily and adding 1 gallon of bleach but to still does not look any better. Not sure if something going on with the connection from skimmer to pump. Any suggestions pump and filter are both new
 
Skimmer basket you can remove with the pump on, pump basket you will need to shut it off.

Since you've been clearing a swamp it's likely some of the stuff is getting stuck in the filter causing your PSI to increase after backwashing. Just take note of the PSI after you backwash and backwash again when it rises 25%. Once you have it all cleared up read up on deep cleaning a sand filter.
 

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