Pollen or Algae either way losing FC

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M

mmarie68

Member
Jun 12, 2020
22
North Jackson/Ohio
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
My 3rd year pool owner. Not too bad so far but this year seems like I'm dealing with something new. I really don't know what but I have had a lot of pollen and saw this on bottom of pool in a few spots. I knew something was up because my SWG was not keeping up, having no chlorine and lost 4 FC in an overnight test CC.5. So started slamming yesterday. CYA 50. Had 3 additions of bleach and at 10pm last night FC=20, 7am FC 16.5 so added more bleach. When I brush the floor, you can see fluffy of whatever. I only have a robotic vacuum. Just stay the course and slam? Any suggestions? Add DE to my sand filter? Purchase manual vacuum? I need help. 😔20230606_182049.jpg
 
Stay the course and keep slamming. Something is brewing.
Check all the usual suspect nooks and crannies like the ladder, weir doors and lights.
Can you post a set of recent test results?
Do these spots go away when you brush or do they stay there?
Have you tested for staining?
 
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Stay the course & do all the things- keep that robot working! Do you have fine pleated filters for it? They can be very helpful & basically your bot becomes a roving cartridge filter.
For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day is best) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
 
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Thank you for all the info. I did not test everything today. But I was on the lower side of things
before i started slamming
TA 70,
ph 7.2
CH 150
Speaking of, I had my water tested today for phosphates (540) and metals (0) and the pool company had my TA at 103, cya 69. I am hoping my reagents are still good (i think i got last year).
*Spots go away when brushed...#poof
*Staining test- is that with vitamin c? I was able to use vit c on my steps that yellowed and it came right off
*I think i can scrub all the things except the light niche...gotta read on how to do that. Makes me nervous.
*I just put my pleated filters in my robotic cleaner but I did go out today and bought a manual.
*my filter is at 20psi, inital is 18 psi
*not sure if matters at this point but we're in a drought and had to add well water. I had the pool company test my well water as well. Got an RV filter on the hose and they got TA 309, iron/copper 0, phosphates 164????
I'm staying the TFP course! Thank you all so much.
 
Don’t worry about the phosphates
Or their other results aside from metals honestly - slam on!
post a pic of your light for guidance there.
Vitamin c is for iron stains- but if it poofed its algae not a stain.
Add which kit you have to your signature.
 
👍 on the phosphates and pool store results. I should know better! I have a TF-100 kit and reordered so I will double chk with new reagents. The vit c I used to rub on my yellowed steps and it made a huge difference. So even though store had 0 iron...I actually do? Do I need a metal sequestrant? Tested at 6:30 am. FC 16.5 (still lost>1), water clear, no visible brownish spots, Brushed down pool and added liq chlorine to get back to slam. I will check
levels after work, vacuum and get a pic of the light. Just a round Hayward normal light I assume. Thanks!
 
Turn the power to the light off (breaker too)
Then You just undo that 1 screw on the top of the metal ring at 12 o’clock (there may also be another one at 6 o’clock)
Don’t touch any of the ones on the outer white ring, they hold the niche to the pool wall.
Don’t drop the little screws lol
The fixture will come out and there should be enough cable to lay it on the pool deck. Then you can scrub inside the niche.
You can do this while laying on the pool deck or from inside the pool- your choice.
May wanna have the pool vac handy to prevent any crud from going everywhere.
 
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Well, SLAM stalled a little over the weekend but i was able to get in pool and brush some algae that was in the coping on the bottom step, around light and a little around skimmer plate. Couldn't see it. I have not got inside light....yet. Water is clear, no brown spots on my floor but my OCLT last night was -4.5. Ugh. The weather is cooler in Ohio this week, rained yesterday, today, throughout week.
*Should I redo full set if tests (not ph) to chk where I am and go from there? Got my new reagents.
*I read you're not supposed to while slamming but I'd like to put solar cover on since going in the 40/50s at night this week. Could I wait an hr or 2 after adding last addition?
*My heater is on...should I turn that off as well? Just don't want more problems with equipment with all the chorine.
*Backwash/rinse? I know don't do until 25% above initial but all this vacuuming and psi has not bumped pass 20 psi (18psi initial).
Happy Monday and thank you!
 
I see where you’re logging your additions but not your test results. Going forward log your results first then use the overview cards to calculate & log additions. This helps you see a better picture of your progress. It also automatically places your most recent result in the “current” block
If fc falls to 10 go ahead & check ph (if you lowered it before slam it is probably still fine)
The other values shouldn’t have changed much except possibly cya if you have exchanged a bunch of water.
The fc is fine for your heater- it’s already flowing through it whether its on or not.
You can use the cover at night & do as you described. When you’re getting close on the oclt with fc loss remove the cover so it doesn’t skew the cc results by trapping them.

You can backwash if you wish since you are concerned there’s alot of funky stuff but understand that generally dirty sand actually filters better than clean sand. It kinda helps it grab more particles.
The 25% is just a good rule of thumb to go by but if flow slows definitely go ahead & backwash.
Just to double check, you are doing both
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tests in the dark & testing at least 30minutes after your final addition for the first test, pump running for at least 30 minutes prior to both tests?
If so, I suspect you have a treasure trove of algae hidden somewhere (the light is suspect #1)
 
Roger that. I may have missed a login/s. I keep my pump on 24/7 and usually test 1 hr after last addition at night then test in am before I go to work around 6am on week days a little later on weekends.😊
 
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Logging your results first takes a second more but it becomes 2nd nature quickly & you’ll appreciate being able to look back on where you were at this point last year etc.
sounds like you’ve got the oclt mastered, now let’s seek & destroy the hidden offenders eating all your liquid gold!
 
Thanks for your patience...I'm running out of it. 🙄 I looked at the light and there are more screws around the metal ring but need to find right screwdriver/tool. I didn't test this am, too dark. Would it be beneficial to add algeacide as well or just stay the course with liq chlorine? Almost a week into this. Last night pool smelled like a public pool but my tests showed 0 cc.
 
mmarie68 said:
there are more screws around the metal ring but need to find right screwdriver/tool.
Click to expand...
I don't have experiance with this type of light, but from reading other posts, I don't think you are supposed to remove those screws. Just the 1 or 2 needed to get it out of the niche.
 
Thanks I think it only has 3 around the metal ring. Ill pay close attention so not the niche itself. If I looked online correctly from Hayward site it shows 3 with a Phillips screwdriver to remove.
 
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Maybe someone that knows more than me can chime in, but I think you are just supposed to clean the niche. You're not supposed to open up the light fixutre.
 

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