Polaris 380 backup valve mechanism G53

sandyb

0
Apr 18, 2015
51
Granada Hills, Ca
Greetings….
I have a Polaris 380 with the G52 backup valve.
I have replaced the G53 “mechanism” three times, and am hesitant of the aftermarket Chinese Crud that is out there.
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
What is the answer?
Sandy
 
Greetings….
I have a Polaris 380 with the G52 backup valve.
I have replaced the G53 “mechanism” three times, and am hesitant of the aftermarket Chinese Crud that is out there.
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
What is the answer?
Sandy
What is happening to the valve? Is it a mechanical failure?
First, be sure your wall/inline screen is in place. Second, be sure that you are no "over pumping" by not using a restrictor plate if needed, or opening the in-wall pressure relief a turn or two. A backup valve should last many years, mine's at least 15 years old with only a housing replacement in that time. Best to get OEM, but a good substitute is CMP brand.
 
What is happening to the valve? Is it a mechanical failure?
First, be sure your wall/inline screen is in place. Second, be sure that you are no "over pumping" by not using a restrictor plate if needed, or opening the in-wall pressure relief a turn or two. A backup valve should last many years, mine's at least 15 years old with only a housing replacement in that time. Best to get OEM, but a good substitute is CMP brand.
Thanks 1poolman1
The main problem with each of the “mechanisms” is that the small gear is being stripped.
mechanical failure.
The wall screen is in place, and cleaned each time the collection bag is emptied.
As to the restrictor plates, they are not in use, and have not been since I acquired ownership of the property 10 years ago.
I am considering to attempt at removal of the backup valve entirely, to see the results, but I’m not sure how to plumb without the valve, as the hose attaches to the ends of the backup valve on either end.
Just as an added FYI….recently my main pump went bad after 20 years, so I saw an opportunity to get away from having to run two pumps simultaneously, so I talked myself into purchasing a Dolphin Robotic cleaner.
I ran it for 30 plus hours and achieved absolutely nothing.
I returned it for a full refund.
Also…..to anyone with a similar problem to mine, in regards to your backup valve.
You do not need to replace the valve, only the internal mechanism.
Thanks Sandy
 
Thanks 1poolman1
The main problem with each of the “mechanisms” is that the small gear is being stripped.
mechanical failure.
The wall screen is in place, and cleaned each time the collection bag is emptied.
As to the restrictor plates, they are not in use, and have not been since I acquired ownership of the property 10 years ago.
I am considering to attempt at removal of the backup valve entirely, to see the results, but I’m not sure how to plumb without the valve, as the hose attaches to the ends of the backup valve on either end.
Just as an added FYI….recently my main pump went bad after 20 years, so I saw an opportunity to get away from having to run two pumps simultaneously, so I talked myself into purchasing a Dolphin Robotic cleaner.
I ran it for 30 plus hours and achieved absolutely nothing.
I returned it for a full refund.
Also…..to anyone with a similar problem to mine, in regards to your backup valve.
You do not need to replace the valve, only the internal mechanism.
Thanks Sandy
How long are you running the cleaner? No more than 2-3 hours per day is best.
Have you adjusted the wheel RPMs? From the manual:
"The Polaris comes equipped with an automatic pressure relief valve in the quick disconnect. If the Polaris is receiving too much water pressure, it will release water at the quick disconnect. The wheel RPM of the Polaris should be between 28 and 32."
Any longer or with more pressure (higher wheel RPM) and the whole cleaner will wear much faster.
 
The backup valve can be replaced with a hose swivel.
With the power train "right and tight" the cleaner can power its way off of stairs and benches. I have removed them from several of the pools I service, and the cleaners do fine. (But this depends on the particular pool. Some need the backup in place to free the cleaner).
An added bonus is the cleaner won't get snagged around the hose where it attaches to the wall anymore, which usually happens in backup mode.
 
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The backup valve can be replaced with a hose swivel.
With the power train "right and tight" the cleaner can power its way off of stairs and benches. I have removed them from several of the pools I service, and the cleaners do fine. (But this depends on the particular pool. Some need the backup in place to free the cleaner).
An added bonus is the cleaner won't get snagged around the hose where it attaches to the wall anymore, which usually happens in backup mode.
Thank you!
 
The main problem with each of the “mechanisms” is that the small gear is being stripped.
mechanical failure.
That's sloppy manufacturing tolerances. Lots of complaints re: this issue on the web. Just out of interest, where do you think Polaris sub out the manufacturing of these mechanism? I don't know for sure , but I would guess....... China!

I get about 5 years out of a reversing valve mechanism. The last one I got was a cheap-cheapie from China. It's lasting fine for now.... maybe even better than the OEM!
 
People do not realize how beholden we are to Chinese junk, and how pervasive it has become in our daily lives.
I make a conscious decision to avoid at all costs anything made in China.
As far as the backup valve, (it is at a remote location) when I am next there, I am going to remove it and insert a swivel.
See how it goes.
 
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