Plumbing new heater

[anthony21078]

Need some advice on plumbing in a new heat pump. This is the first heater for this pool so the existing filter/pump plumbing is pretty basic (Although I think there are too many 90 bends in a short space). The heater is a Aqucal 225 with the inlet being a bit higher then the outlet and both are off center on the heater. I was thinking the path of least resistance with minimal bends but I don't know if its really necessary. The only plumbing requirements that the manufacturer stated was to have at least 6 inches of straight pipe at the inlet and outlet. My pool plumbing is 1.5" so Ill have reducer right at the inlet and outlet.

I had 2 ideas (but maybe a more knowledgeable person has a better one). I don't use the chlorinator anymore since installing the stenner but I still leave it plumbed in. I figured removing it permanantly gives me the space needed to install the heater.

#1
- Keep the quick connect union in place that the chlorinator uses
- Add a quick connect on the other side where inlet of the chlorinator was into a 90
- Downward angled pipe into maybe a 45 followed by 6 inches of straight pipe into the heater inlet

- The outlet would follow the same idea and return into the opposite side of the chlorinator exit with another quick connect union

#2
- Exit the multiport valve appx 10-12 inches into a 90
- Downward angled pipe into maybe a 45 followed by 6 inches of straight tube into the inlet of the heater.

- The outlet would follow the same idea with a 45 angled upward and a 90 into the return. I would move the stenner inlet lower the the heater return is above the stenner.

Open to ideas from the pro's

 

[HermanTX]

Removing the chlorinator is best. You can always use a floater if need to use pucks.
Overall plan to come out and back is fine with Stenner inlet downstream of heater.
Suggest you also add a Heater Bypass - Further Reading. It would be quite simple with your parallel pipes. Will need to purchase a 3 way diverter and check valve per the link above.

 

[PoolGate]

One thing I will suggest is while you have it apart, put in a single unified concrete pad. I have 2 of those worthless plastic pads and I believe that is what cause my heater core to crack. They settle at different rates. In retrospect I should have insisted on a single, cast concrete pad for all of my equipment.

 

[anthony21078]

Removing the chlorinator is best. You can always use a floater if need to use pucks.
Overall plan to come out and back is fine with Stenner inlet downstream of heater.
Suggest you also add a Heater Bypass - Further Reading. It would be quite simple with your parallel pipes. Will need to purchase a 3 way diverter and check valve per the link above.

As suggested, I will add a bypass and check valve. The check valve I found on amazon also doubles as a flow gauge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787MBKTM) which I really think will help to dial in the heater with the 1.5" piping I have. I was looking at the gpm chart for my pump and it looks great for 2" piping but appears to be a big drop using 1.5". The heater lists a 30/70 gpm min/max so I hope I wont have to run this pump over 2500rpm all the time.

I also purchase two inline thermometers to further dial in the unit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002RG212/

Trying to keep most of the existing plumbing in place and line up the new pipes is a little tough. Ideally, I think starting from scratch and re-configuring the pump and filter layout is the best bet along with making a much larger concrete pad. However, for now Ill see if I can make it work.

One thing I will suggest is while you have it apart, put in a single unified concrete pad. I have 2 of those worthless plastic pads and I believe that is what cause my heater core to crack. They settle at different rates. In retrospect I should have insisted on a single, cast concrete pad for all of my equipment.

Which pad do you have? My filter and pump are on small concrete pad. At the time I poured it, I never thought I would get a heater so I left it real small.

I was actually looking at this pad for the heater instead of pouring a second pad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002V3MC6Y

 

[PoolGate]

As suggested, I will add a bypass and check valve. The check valve I found on amazon also doubles as a flow gauge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787MBKTM) which I really think will help to dial in the heater with the 1.5" piping I have. I was looking at the gpm chart for my pump and it looks great for 2" piping but appears to be a big drop using 1.5". The heater lists a 30/70 gpm min/max so I hope I wont have to run this pump over 2500rpm all the time.

I also purchase two inline thermometers to further dial in the unit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002RG212/

Trying to keep most of the existing plumbing in place and line up the new pipes is a little tough. Ideally, I think starting from scratch and re-configuring the pump and filter layout is the best bet along with making a much larger concrete pad. However, for now Ill see if I can make it work.



Which pad do you have? My filter and pump are on small concrete pad. At the time I poured it, I never thought I would get a heater so I left it real small.

I was actually looking at this pad for the heater instead of pouring a second pad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002V3MC6Y

Those pads are worthless and I wish local codes would outlaw them for good. I highly suggest you pour another concrete pad for the heater. You won't regret it.