Plumbing layout

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Veccster

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Aug 30, 2016
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Pittsburgh PA
Backfill comes tomorrow afternoon so this is my last chance at changing anything. I guess I'm making sure that I'm not overlooking anything big here.



There are 3 returns all tied together and one run back to the pad. It's all 2" flex pipe. There will also be 4 deck jets installed on this loop. So I'll be able to turn off the returns to increase flow to the deck jets.

There are 2 skimmers (suction) that are both 2" home runs back to the pad. Give me control over shutting one off for vacuuming. This loop contains the slide as well.

No main drain. No return to waste. No vacuum port.


There is a 2nd loop with 2 suction valves tied together that run back to the pad in a 2" pipe. There are 2 returns back to the pool - a waterfall and deck jets. I think these are 1 1/2" pipes.


I assume flex pipe is OK because I'm in a freeze / thaw climate and do not have termite issues. We do have rocks though.
 
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Honestly, I'm always a fan of a manual vacuuming port. I have one for my suction side cleaner and I use it to manually vacuum on occasion. It's A LOT easier to plug into a vacuum port than to fiddle around with skimmer plates, etc. I know people feel like that they will never need to have one, but there can be occasions when having a manual vacuum and being able to just plug into a port is a really nice option to have.

Just my opinion...

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and will the fill around the pipes be sand first and then gravel? I never like backfilling around pipes with jagged gravel. Pipes will move a little with water flowing in them and a pipe with a sharp rock edge against it constantly rubbing it is a recipe for a leak...
 
Would the sand eventually wash away?

I just sent a text and asked my PB if he could do that. It makes sense. When hoses get pressure, they shift a bit. Over time, I guess that rubbing with sharp corners could be bad.

Thanks for the idea on the vacuum port. We're going with a robot for most cleaning. And I don't have a problem using the skimmer for in-between cleanings. One less hole in liner, one less pipe to winterize and one less thing at the pad.
 
EDIT....just heard back from PB and he is going to cover the pipes with sand before the backfill.


So no other recommendations or issue with the actual plumbing? Are 1.5" lines back to slide and waterfall enough? It's going to be a 24" sheer decent jandy waterfall.
 
Good to hear about the fill. Sand around pipes is pretty standard practice but it amazes me how many times this gets skipped.

No worries about the vacuum line. I'm fan, doesn't mean others are.

About winterizing - I wonder if you can have the plumber add a valve and port at the pad now that would allow you to attach a blower to it so that you can easily blow out the lines for the winter??

As far as 1.5" piping goes, if the applications are for high flow/low head, the 1.5" is more than enough pipe diameter.
 
Sand is down and gravel is starting to be put down. Very cool to have a flexible builder. His text said "I don't think sand is necessary but we'll put it down if you'd like". I said 'yes' and it showed up this morning.

Can't change the plumbing layout now. Thanks for looking at it!

 
Well, here in AZ we use extensive drip irrigation systems in residential construction with lots of buried PVC piping to carry water directly to the plants. This avoids lots of evaporative losses that would occur though manual irrigation and keeps the water bills low....that is, until one of the PVC lines breaks or develops a leak and you have a 1/2" line at 25-30psi water pressure spraying water out like a fire hose...those water bills are no fun to pay.

Take it from someone that has dug up and replaced more feet of buried PVC than he would ever have liked - sand is your friend!
 
Got to love a PB that is so open to things like that..........if you want it you get it without argument! Of course I am sure you will have to pay a little more for it but if it saves you from having to dig in the future it will be well worth it!

Kim:kim:
 

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PoolguyinCT said:
It's hard to tell for from photo - are those light conduits about a foot from pool walls?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

No, those are just the start of the conduit. The conduit runs back to the side of the house and is stubbed up 6" above water level. He hasn't put the wire in the conduit yet.

I'm going to post my plumbing layout. Working on it right now.
 
Thoughts on this layout? This was different than the original design that was posted above. I edited the first post to indicate these changes.




I plan to use the iaqualink system to control the 2 pumps, heater and 3-way valves.
Only 2 JVA's will be automated - the returns / slide and the deck jets / waterfall.

Do I need a check valve on the 2nd loop?
 
That second cartridge filter on the water features is completely unnecessary. Certainly just my opinion but it's a waste of money and will only serve to reduce flow to your water features as it loads up. I have a waterfall and secondary wall return plumbed with a pump and no filtration. In all my years of operating it, I think I've opened the pump lid once to remove a leaf, a single leaf, from the strainer.

Up to you, but it's unnecessary.
 
Thanks Matt. I questioned that as well. The builder sent Zodiac our needs and this is what they recommended (no surprise I guess). Also, the suction for the 2nd loop is via 2 suction ports mid-way up the deep end wall. So they really shouldn't be sucking much dirt or debris like a main drain or skimmer would.

Do I need a check valve on that loop?

How do the pumps stay primed? Our pad is about 10' above the pool.
 
My plumbing is designed with a piping loop that sits above the pump and above the pipes that feed the waterfall and wall return. So it's like a Hartford loop. But my pad is maybe only a foot or two above the water line.

In your case, you might just want to add a check valve on the suction side of the pump to keep the water from back flowing.

Yes, with a wall drain set that deep you will only be pulling clean water in from the pool. No need for an additional filter in my opinion unless the return head loss is too low, then you might have a problem with pump cavitation. Can you divulge equipment specs?
 
Are the deck jets laminar which may be more affected by tiny debris - though agree that it will likely be minimal. Pentair does show/recommend filtered water for their laminars in the installation manual. (Probably along with an FC of 1-3 - haha [emoji23]).
 
Deck jets are regular Jandy....not laminar.

They all show that water features should have filtered water. But it essentially will be filtered water....just not directly from the filter :cool:

Matt, I'll post up the equipment list in a few minutes. I'm working on compiling it right now. Adding a check valve is probably a good idea.
 
Breakdown of equipment:



Noise is not a concern as the equipment pad is far from the pool area. I suppose the 1hp single-speed pump is better than a specific waterfall / water feature pump like the SWF125 (Jandy SWF125 Stealth WaterFall Low Head 125 GPM Pump, 115V/230V

I'll add the automation equipment later but basically it's an 8-relay iaqualink setup.

And 2 hayward multi-color LED lights.
 
It looks great. I am going to do my own pool too but I don't know how to make all these things with drains and plumbs. I live in Toronto and heard about Plumbers Toronto so maybe did someone know about them and their services? Thank you
 
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