piping recommendation

[Calverton_pool]

Hi, I have a pool in which the plumbing near the equipment has valves near or in the dirt. This makes turning the valve on/off a pain some times, especially when it’s outside. In addition, you can see, in the picture, some of the valve handles has broken. There is also on valve on the return side that I do not know where it goes. My initial thought is to fix the valve and move the other valves higher up by about 6 inches next spring. Since, I’m doing the work, I‘d thought I reach out to this forum and get feedback if I can improve the piping near the equipment. Appreciate any suggestions? For example, I have a cartridge filter, does it make sense to plumbing in a waste line, so I can lower the pool quicker (currently using a 1200 gal / hr pump, very slow).

Additionally, the electric outlets for the 110v and the pump is also touching the ground. Is there a reason for keeping it so close to the ground? Would there be any problems if I move the outlets about 4 inches off the ground?

Thank you.

 

[1poolman1]

Until the TriStar line came out, Hayward pumps are very low. All that debris around the motor needs to be removed for the sake of the motor itself.
Raise the electrical for sure. There may be a code in NY, but 6.5" minimum above grade is the usual standard.
Use a 3-way Jandy-type valve in front of the pump in place of the 2 ball valves.
If the outlet of the filter goes into the ground and then back up to the return lines, plumb it direct and get rid of a few 90's.
Get rid of the ball valves in the return lines and use 2-way Jandy-type valves.
Where is the SWG cell?

 

[Newdude]

I didn't know a waste valve was a thing when my PB installed it. It came in handy often enough that it was on my non negotiable list when we moved and built again. I just drained about 9k gallons closing this weekend in a half hour. After big rains I can lower it so quickly I can't go do anything else and have to stand there for 6 mins twiddling my thumbs.

Often times with heavy debris like at opening, I'll take a few passes with the brush, letting it settle in between to get the bulk of the crud to a general area and then barely lose any water using vac to waste.

 

[Calverton_pool]

Where is the SWG cell?

Thank you for your suggestions. Will definitely look into moving the outlets and getting jandy type valves. The SWG is after the heater and before the return valves (near ground level, outside of picture).

 

[Calverton_pool]

I didn't know a waste valve was a thing when my PB installed it. It came in handy often enough that it was on my non negotiable list when we moved and built again. I just drained about 9k gallons closing this weekend in a half hour. After big rains I can lower it so quickly I can't go do anything else and have to stand there for 6 mins twiddling my thumbs.

Often times with heavy debris like at opening, I'll take a few passes with the brush, letting it settle in between to get the bulk of the crud to a general area and then barely lose any water using vac to waste.

Thank you feedback. I pump I used took almost 15 hours to lower the water below the return jets. Will definitely look into adding the waste option.

 

[Calverton_pool]

Bringing up an old thread. I am about to order the jandy valves. One question I have is for the 3 way valve, looking at the pictures on the Jandy website, it looks like there is 1 inflow and 2 outflow. Since this is going before the pump with the main drain and skimmer as the feeders, is there a different type of valve that I need to get? Also, I see there is type 2 -and type 3 jandy valves. What’s the difference.

Thanks again

 

[1poolman1]

3-way valves allow and can adjust flow to or from 2 different lines. 2-way can open, throttle, or stop flow in a single line.

 

[Newdude]

Also, I see there is type 2 -and type 3 jandy valves. What’s the difference.

I'm seeing that for the first time too. The ones I found are knock offs, that are *Jandy type* 2 way valves or *Jandy type* 3 way valves. All parts compatible with OEM blah blah blah

Jandy never lube comes us as such, plus 2 way or 3 way.

Since this is going before the pump with the main drain and skimmer as the feeders, is there a different type of valve that I need to get?

Nope. Just a 3 way. Only 1 skimmer ?

 

[generessler]

Another thought: It's valuable to be able to see leaks on a dry equipment pad. That's in addition to the notes above that it's better for wiring and equipment. For example, a tiny leak can signal needed maintenance on the pump before a failure gets bad. (Read this as saving $$$.) Either your pad has been buried under mulch or there isn't one. Since you're talking about re-plumbing and re-wiring anyway, you could take the opportunity to fix this.