Sunlight consumes chlorine, so the 8 ppm drop during the day is normal. Your overnight drop is what matters, and that was only 1, which means you are done shocking.
How is the water looking?
How is the water looking?
Pinch-a-penny... Friend or Foe?
- Thread starter smokin3000gt
- Start date
The pump running won't affect FC loss....you will lose alot during the daylight hours unless the pool is covered. It's more of a percentage loss than a hard number.....if that makes sense.
However, that being said, while your 1ppm overnight loss is encouraging, your description of round green/black circles that won't scrub off is not.
I would keep the FC up to shock level for 48 hours and brush these areas like you have OCD to make sure the circles aren't Black Algae beginning to take hold....
However, that being said, while your 1ppm overnight loss is encouraging, your description of round green/black circles that won't scrub off is not.
I would keep the FC up to shock level for 48 hours and brush these areas like you have OCD to make sure the circles aren't Black Algae beginning to take hold....
Pinch-A-Penny is okay if you like to pay extra for stuff.
Years and years ago we learned that our neighborhood Ace hardware store is all we need to find what we need.
50 lb bags of sodium bicarbonate @ $19.99.
50 lb bags of soda ash @ $19.99.
Muriatic acid @ $3.99 per jug.
Liquid chlorine @ $ 4.50 per 2 1/2gallon jug.
Two week algaecide (container lasts around 2 to 3 months) @ $ 24.00.
Only thing we buy elsewhere are 40 lb. containers of 3 inch tabs at Sam's Club.
The above is all we have ever needed the entire over 20 yrs we have had our AGP to have clear and clean water.
Good Luck
Years and years ago we learned that our neighborhood Ace hardware store is all we need to find what we need.
50 lb bags of sodium bicarbonate @ $19.99.
50 lb bags of soda ash @ $19.99.
Muriatic acid @ $3.99 per jug.
Liquid chlorine @ $ 4.50 per 2 1/2gallon jug.
Two week algaecide (container lasts around 2 to 3 months) @ $ 24.00.
Only thing we buy elsewhere are 40 lb. containers of 3 inch tabs at Sam's Club.
The above is all we have ever needed the entire over 20 yrs we have had our AGP to have clear and clean water.
Good Luck
I don't understand why you would need muriatic acid in a pool running trichlor. You would need the bicarb and soda ash but the only reason you would need acid is if you were overdosing on the other two. With proper testing and an understanding of what these chemicals do when you add them to the pool that would not happen. Then again, you do need a good test kit for that also.imjay said:
Also, your pricing is a bit off. The Aces in the Duval and St. John's area charge about $35 for the soda ash and about $22 for the bicarb. The $24 algaecide is the HTH 50% linear quat and it will foam. It is also not very effective. You are spending about $100 to $150 a year on algaecide which would not be needed at all if you properly maintained your water!? talk about paying extra for stuff!
In my general area, we have three Pinch-a-Pennies that are owned by three different people. One of them has a horrible reputation, one I've heard nothing about but I'm pretty sure it exists, and the third seems to follow the BBB method. The last one is the one I go to and the only thing they have ever tried to sell me is Muriatic Acid, which I knew I needed before I went in.
They have tested my water a few times and get almost the same results that I do, and they have tested the FC at 6 so their test goes above 5. They have a computer printout of the results that give recommendations, and they have crossed out stuff before and told me I didn't need it or in the case of the muriatic acid they changed the dosage suggested. The family that owes it, runs it so they are the ones doing the tests.
Please don't judge every pinch-a-penny by the one you went to.
They have tested my water a few times and get almost the same results that I do, and they have tested the FC at 6 so their test goes above 5. They have a computer printout of the results that give recommendations, and they have crossed out stuff before and told me I didn't need it or in the case of the muriatic acid they changed the dosage suggested. The family that owes it, runs it so they are the ones doing the tests.
Please don't judge every pinch-a-penny by the one you went to.
*update* (a bit delayed I know)
After I only dropped the one ppm I let the chorline levels go back to normal and maintained them there. The black/green spots completely disappeared on their own. I gave them a good scrub with a wire brush for good measure.
Thought I would also mention that I changed my filter, and the circulation in the pool is out standing.
I think it was a combo of the pool guy having a high CYA and low chlorine plus very poor circulation/returns it was about to go down hill.
Now I'm a pro at the test, have good circulation and the chlorine is where it should be. The water is crystal clear and sparkly blue. Now I'm just thinking about getting the 'great white' auto vacuum/brush to help keep it that way.
Anyone have any experience with one?
After I only dropped the one ppm I let the chorline levels go back to normal and maintained them there. The black/green spots completely disappeared on their own. I gave them a good scrub with a wire brush for good measure.
Thought I would also mention that I changed my filter, and the circulation in the pool is out standing.
I think it was a combo of the pool guy having a high CYA and low chlorine plus very poor circulation/returns it was about to go down hill.
Now I'm a pro at the test, have good circulation and the chlorine is where it should be. The water is crystal clear and sparkly blue. Now I'm just thinking about getting the 'great white' auto vacuum/brush to help keep it that way.
Anyone have any experience with one?