Pentair pump error code 000F

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Re; ERR OOOF

My poolman and his technician came out, fiddled with the timer box and the GFI plugs that are out there, opened the top section of the pump (under the err display), which of course you can’t get past — solid metal plate with heavy screws — and they examined the breaker. Their conclusion: “You need a new pump”. Why should I not believe them? From all the threads here just seems like it’s a power issue not a pump issue.

 

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Welcome to the forum.
An outlet box would be were the electrical outlet is protected from the weather.

thanks mk! i’m under the assumption this pump is connected to its own breaker directly without any use of outlets. the pump has been off for a few days now they can’t get it to turn on and they say the breaker seems fine do I need to call my electrician to replace a breaker? I just don’t have any Electrician tools wouldn’t know how to measure voltage et cetera.

 

[Jimrahbe]

amp,

The error is for low input voltage, but that could be the pump's drive or the AC voltage coming into the pump. "Fiddling" is not a good way to troubleshoot the problem.

Step one would be to measure the actual AC input to the pump.. Get a friend, or an electrician, to do that if it is not in your pool bag.

Show us some pics as to where your pump gets AC power. There is a power cable going to the pump, where does it come from? A sub panel, a timer, or what.

What voltage powers your pump? 120 Volts AC or 240 Volts AC? Show us pics of any circuit breakers.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

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You’re the best Jim thank you! I will try and glean all that info and yeah I didn’t like all the fiddling either. I guess I have to ramp-up from goofy homeowner to savvy troubleshooter right quick. I was already out there getting pictures, considering how quickly you provided useful help (attached). Funny I find this excellent troubleshooting thread and my Pool Man replies with a 1-800 number… I guess I’m gonna have to go out and get a pool bag- I didn’t know there was such a thing LOL

 

[Jimrahbe]

I guess I’m gonna have to go out and get a pool bag- I didn’t know there was such a thing LOL

Amp,

Well, that was supposed to say... "Tool bag" not "Pool Bag".. That said, I do have a bag of tools that I mainly used for pool maintenance..

I looked at the pics and this is what I see...

It appears that your old pump used a mechanical timer, that controlled when the pump got any AC power. You now have a VS pump that should get constant AC power. The installer just left the original timer in place, and removed the 'dogs' on the timer wheel so that it is always on, unless someone moves the mechanical timer switch. It also appears that your pump is only receiving 120 Volt AC. Since the pump's display is working, I would have to assume that the pump is getting AC power.

The AC could be low, but that is generally an 240 volt issue and not a 120 volt issue. I am not sure if the GFCI is even in the circuit, but you can push the test button and see if the power to the pump shuts off or not. If it does, just push the reset button.

To confirm what I am saying is correct you should move the timer's manual switch handle down and see if the pump's power goes off. I suggest that you use the timer's switch to shut the power to the pump off overnight and then turn it back on tomorrow and see what happens.

This what the manual says... "0F – Absolute AC Under Voltage Detected: Indicates that the supply voltage has dropped below the operating range of 99v. This could be caused by normal voltage variation and will clear itself. Otherwise there could be excess voltage drops caused by improper installation or improper supply voltage."

I suggest that you cut the power off to the pump overnight and turn it back on tomorrow and see of it resets itself.. If not, I'd want to measure the incoming 120 volts AC to make sure it is close to 120 with the pump still installed. If the voltage is good, the pump should run. The last thing I would try is a "Factory Reset".. The problem is this will wipe out any schedules your pool builder programmed into the pump. I would only do this if nothing else works and you are going to have to buy a new pump anyway.. Just to make sure..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

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You’re the best Jim thank you! I will try and glean all that info and yeah I didn’t like all the fiddling either. I guess I have to ramp-up from goofy homeowner to savvy troubleshooter right quick. I was already out there getting pictures, considering how quickly you provided useful help (attached). Funny I find this excellent troubleshooting thread and my Pool Man replies with a 1-800 number… I guess I’m gonna have to go out and get a pool bag- I didn’t know there was such a thing LOL

amp,

The error is for low input voltage, but that could be the pump's drive or the AC voltage coming into the pump. "Fiddling" is not a good way to troubleshoot the problem.

Step one would be to measure the actual AC input to the pump.. Get a friend, or an electrician, to do that if it is not in your pool bag.

Show us some pics as to where your pump gets AC power. There is a power cable going to the pump, where does it come from? A sub panel, a timer, or what.

What voltage powers your pump? 120 Volts AC or 240 Volts AC? Show us pics of any circuit breakers.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hi Jim- unfortunately my elect. is on holiday. I did get some pix however -- hopefully will show the info you wanted. I'm trying the "power off at the breaker for 5 min. then back on ...a few times" solution, though I'm not sure if I have to input the date/time/duration info on the pump, so just trying "quick clean". Will try another elect. if mine doesn't respond soon. Could be the timer box has seen it's day. Thanks again, Jim.

342001
SuperFlo VS
PENTAIR
VOLTAGE: 115/208-230V
MAX AMPS: 13.2/12.0-11.5A
FREQ: 50/60HZ 1PH TIME: CONT
SPEED: 300-3450RPM FRAME:56
ENCLOSURE: TEFC/TYPE/РХ6
HP:1.5 TGI
INSUL. CLASS:F AMB TEMP 50°C
TAL-HP:22

 

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Just an update: I have been troubleshooting err ooof. have tried the "breaker on and off" trick, the factory reset "hold 1234" trick and the get it off safety mode "hold 1+ -" trick. None worked so far. I do see a new "code" "Loc On". Anyone?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Amp,

Thanks for the pics, but we still have the same basic issue.

You need to shut off the circuit breaker marked "Pool" And leave it off overnight.

Turn it on tomorrow and see of the error on the pump cleared.

If not, someone needs to measure the voltage going into the pump and confirm it is 120 Volt AC or not.

"Fiddling" with stuff does not give me any confidence that they actually measured the input voltage to the pump.

If the pump is getting the proper AC power and it is not working, then it has to be a pump issue..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

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Amp,

Thanks for the pics, but we still have the same basic issue.

You need to shut off the circuit breaker marked "Pool" And leave it off overnight.

Turn it on tomorrow and see of the error on the pump cleared.

If not, someone needs to measure the voltage going into the pump and confirm it is 120 Volt AC or not.

"Fiddling" with stuff does not give me any confidence that they actually measured the input voltage to the pump.

If the pump is getting the proper AC power and it is not working, then it has to be a pump issue..

Thanks,

Jim R.

got it...I'll do the overnight thing. We did have a ton of rain, lightning, a brown out and earthquake, and a lot of trees to give the pump a workout. I guess we'll see. Meantime, I'll get a voltage meter and see if I can answer the voltage question, and health of the breaker. This new "Loc On" msg is perplexing. Comes up after "get out of safety mode 1+-" - can't do anything after that. And factory reset does nothing...I guess once it's reset, that show's over.

 

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my electrician is here today -- I'll share all your feedback...and circle back....thanks for all the new input!

 

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Hi Jim - so my guy is asking what the color code is for the circuit leaving the display and going to the motor.
the display/"mother board" has a burnt odor, so we'd like to bypass the board and make sure the motor runs.
If that all makes sense. I'll send a pic in a sec. Thanks!

 

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any idea which wire is which? 1White, 2Brown, 3Blue ~ + ,-, grnd?

 

[Jimrahbe]

amp,

I am not sure your electrician understands how a VS pump works.. The AC only goes into the control box. The control box converts the AC into pulses of DC voltage. Varying the pulses makes the motor run at different speeds.. You can't test it with a voltmeter.

If you have the proper 240 Volts AC going into the pump, and you can't get the pump to work, then the pump is bad.

I was hoping that the pump was missing one of the two AC voltages going into the pump, or that instead of getting 240 the pump was only getting say 200 volts.

Thanks,

Jim R.