I’ve had this 125 for 3 years and this year seemed to be the year of repairs. The only thing I have not done was SFS. New manifold kit put on the other day. The heater does fire up, but there is no heat at pool discharge. I’ve already dropped about a grand on parts boards membranes etc. I’m at point of thinking a new one for 1700 bucks is better option with a new warranty. Have a new heater and keep the other for parts?
Pentair 125 coil Replacement?
- Thread starter CZinColorado
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,856
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP{.
If the heater is running then the heat needs to go somewhere. The heat is either going into the water or up the exhaust. If the heat is going up the exhaust then the heater will overtemp quickly and shutdown.
What is the heater heating?
What flow do you have through the heater?
Do you run the heater during the winter?
A gas heater should last more then 3 years. If you are running the heater in the winter it could be getting damaged due to corrosive condensation.
www.troublefreepool.com
If the heater is running then the heat needs to go somewhere. The heat is either going into the water or up the exhaust. If the heat is going up the exhaust then the heater will overtemp quickly and shutdown.
What is the heater heating?
What flow do you have through the heater?
Do you run the heater during the winter?
A gas heater should last more then 3 years. If you are running the heater in the winter it could be getting damaged due to corrosive condensation.
Heater Condensation - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
It is for 9k gallon fiberglass in ground. (Salt). We do run it year round. I have split running times to twice daily for 8 hrs each. Before you could feel the warm water through the discharge. Currently is about the same temp as the pool, even though yesterday it said it raised it by 4 degrees after all day. Normally I get about a degree an hour change. I usually keep it about 94 here in TN in the winter, with a solar cover. My pump is 1 3/4 continuous I’m not sure on exact gph discharge. (X2) This heater was plug and play, just now has become a nightmare. Replaced manifold and sensors, new membrane and circuit board, only thing left is stack flu and ags. I have hit the buttons on the membrane pad and it reads within the limits in the exhaust. I did run a little endoscope as much as I could into the coils, the do not look bad internally. I’ve always kept my water pretty darn good since I’m retired. As you can see. I have dumped about all I can into this unit. For myself I know things can’t run forever, but 3 yrs to go to heck? That’s about 500 bucks additional heat expense per yr.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,856
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Did you replace the thermal regulator and the internal bypass valve when you replaced the manifold?
Stack flue sensor and AGS only control shutdown and not output temperature. If the heater runs replacing SFS or AGS will not make a difference.
Stack flue sensor and AGS only control shutdown and not output temperature. If the heater runs replacing SFS or AGS will not make a difference.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,856
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What does the stack flue temperature read when the heater runs?
Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:
If the exhaust gas temperature is higher then normal then water may be bypassing the heat exchanger through a broken bypass valve.
Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:
- Below 250 degrees...very low
- 250 to 290 ..................low
- 290 to 350.................acceptable
- 350 to 480 ..................high
- Above 480...................error/shutdown.
If the exhaust gas temperature is higher then normal then water may be bypassing the heat exchanger through a broken bypass valve.