Paver stripper in pool water

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M

Macpool11

Active member
Jun 27, 2021
25
Florida
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
we had our patio stripped. Long story short, paver sealer company sold us a bag of Crud, and we had our patio stripped several months ago, and they re-sealed it. Took a good month to get the pool back to normal.
Now, since the pavers were sealed and the sealant failed, we had it stripped again. Unfortunately, all the gummy sealant and stripper basically got washed into the pool.
Now the pool is clear, but green. And a little foamy when the spa is turned on.

Current levels:
FC 12
CC 0
pH 7.9
TA 75
CH 360
Cya 30
Salt 3500
Temp 76

I have it at slam level chlorine as of yesterday. pH creeps fast. Cleaning filter every day or so. It’s been 2 weeks of green. Overnight, chlorine went from 12 to 11.2, but combined chlorine went from .4 to 0 over the same time.
I will maintain the slam levels, but any suggestions?
 
Macpool11 said:
we had our patio stripped. Long story short, paver sealer company sold us a bag of Crud, and we had our patio stripped several months ago, and they re-sealed it. Took a good month to get the pool back to normal.
Now, since the pavers were sealed and the sealant failed, we had it stripped again. Unfortunately, all the gummy sealant and stripper basically got washed into the pool.
Now the pool is clear, but green. And a little foamy when the spa is turned on.

Current levels:
FC 12
CC 0
pH 7.9
TA 75
CH 360
Cya 30
Salt 3500
Temp 76

I have it at slam level chlorine as of yesterday. pH creeps fast. Cleaning filter every day or so. It’s been 2 weeks of green. Overnight, chlorine went from 12 to 11.2, but combined chlorine went from .4 to 0 over the same time.
I will maintain the slam levels, but any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Only advice would be to change your test method to use the 10ml water sample for FC so you don’t waste the powder doing a really long SLAM. And are you estimating TA?

Exchanging water and lots of filtering as well.
 
Last edited:
I measured TA yesterday before I raised the chlorine levels, so no, not an estimate. And yes, I usually use the 10ml for chlorine. Will try displacing water.
 
How do you get 75 for a TA level when each drop is 10ppm?
 
Macpool11 said:
TA is measuring 80 today. It turns pink at 70 and brighter at 80, so I probably split the difference.
Click to expand...
The test end point is when adding a drop makes no difference. You do not count that drop.

Your TA is 80.

Don't split the difference on tests.
 
Macpool11 said:
TA is measuring 80 today. It turns pink at 70 and brighter at 80, so I probably split the difference.
Click to expand...
TA (and most tests) can be off by one drop. We need to know the TA is 70ish and not 190 or 40. Or the FC a 9ish and not a 2, the CH 350ish and not 1200, (Etc etc).
 

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Newdude said:
We need to know the TA is 70ish and not 190 or 40.
Click to expand...

If ish is the TFP testing standard then please ask the powers that be to enter it into PoolMath that way.

There is no reason not to accurately perform and record the test.

The ish is what contributes to people asking why their MA additions do not match PM predictions. The more we get people to test accurately the less confusion it will cause.
 
ajw22 said:
There is no reason not to accurately perform and record the test.
Click to expand...
Correct. I was just adding the proper context of the big picture. It's always best to be as close as possible, but nobody needs to split hairs when it's close.
 
Newdude said:
TA (and most tests) can be off by one drop. We need to know the TA is 70ish and not 190 or 40. Or the FC a 9ish and not a 2, the CH 350ish and not 1200, (Etc etc).
Click to expand...
We are really splitting hairs if it’s off by a drop. 70 vs 80. In this case I am not sure it really makes much difference. It’s also possible I used the smaller sample size, which has a multiplier of 25, in which case 75 is a reasonable measure, and not necessarily inaccurate in this case.
 
JamesW said:
You can try some oil absorbing mats to see if some or all of the product gets absorbed.

You can try Pool First Aid.

I do not know if it actually helps or not, so I am not recommending it, but it might be worth a try.


View attachment 542219

naturalchemistry.com

Pool First Aid - Natural Chemistry

naturalchemistry.com naturalchemistry.com
Click to expand...
I was looking at this based off another post. I don’t have an easy way to vacuum to waste, so I am not sure this is will be great.
 
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Macpool11 said:
We are really splitting hairs if it’s off by a drop. 70 vs 80. In this case I am not sure it really makes much difference. It’s also possible I used the smaller sample size, which has a multiplier of 25, in which case 75 is a reasonable measure, and not necessarily inaccurate in this case.
Click to expand...

Depends if you then come back and ask why your MA additions are not getting the pH change that Pool Math expects. Which we seem to get a lot of questions about.

If you don't care, then I don't care. Its your pool.

If you start asking about why things are not lining up with your water chemistry then it starts with accurate testing.

70 versus 80 is over a 10% difference.
 
JamesW said:
Can you provide a list of the actual chemicals that got in the water?
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Nope, not exactly. The sealant is a topical sealant, the msds says polyacrylate dispersion ,trade secret, and glycol ether, trade secret.
The stripper is d’limonene and benzyl alcohol as the main components.
Any metals would be from the pavers themselves, and whatever dirt and debris was on the pavers as well, although they weren’t terrible.
 
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