Order to Correct Problems

[SKD]

Good Evening,

Pool maintenance has recently defaulted to me. No chemistry back at all. Water is clear and looks clean. Ran out of test strips a couple of days ago so began researching. I know now, the strips are not reliable. We've had the pool 2 years and pretty much used chlorine tablets and liquid chlorine. I know now the tablets are probably the culprit as the CYA is very high. A pool cleaning company tested the water and a Leslie's Pool test also reads CYA high. I intend to order a TF-Pro text kit but in the mean time... should I start the process to drain the pool in order to correct the CYA level? Is that the first step to take on before trying to correct anything else? Thank you for your time!

L Pools readings:
FC 15
pH 6.9
Total Alkalinity 0 (adjusted due to the effect of CyA on tested Total Alkalinity)
Calcium Hardness 313
CyA 174
Iron 0.1
Copper 0.2
Phosphates 2974 (read that this is not relevant if FC kept at correct level)
TDS 2000

12K gal, IG plaster, Hayward 2.7 variable speed pump, 425 sq ft cartridge filter, Dolphin cleaning robot, Testing kit TF-Pro (need to purchase)

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum.
I would recommend waiting until you get your proper test kit and running a full set of tests before doing anything.
I suggest you read Pool Care Basics

 

[SKD]

Good evening,

I'm finally back! Purchased the Taylor K-2006. CYA was 150 with the new kit. The advice from a pool company was not to add any more chlorine until CYA was corrected. Maybe this was not a good idea as pool water is now green. I have drained down to the 2nd step (Apr 24) and test results (Apr 25) are below.

FC 0.6
pH 8.0
TA 150
CH 590
CYA 150 (didn't change even draining to bottom of first step and refilling with fresh city water)
CSI 0.7
Temp 73F

It's my understanding that adding chlorine will not be helpful since the CYA is still so high but I could be wrong. I'm considering:

1. adding muriatic acid tomorrow to raise pH (app says add 1.15 pints) to treat algae and then
2. Sunday morning, drain pool again but this time down to the bottom of the 2nd step then
3. run tests again

All advice is greatly appreciated and thank you!

 

[AUSpool]

Be very careful draining and refilling your pool, they will lift out of the ground even when mostly full. If you want to bring you CyA down to say 75ppm that’s a 50% reduction so you’ll need to “exchange” half of your water to achieve that.

See the no drain water exchange.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Newdude]

CYA was 150 with the new kit.

Is this an estimate or did you dilute the sample ? If it's not a diluted test it's likely much higher.

However you drain, try to avoid multiple drains. They lose efficiency with each round because you drain new water with the old. Two 50% drains net 75% of the pool water by moving 100% of the volume. Three 50% drains removes 87.5% of the original water by draining 150% of the volume.

You can dig a test hole to see if your ground water table is high. If you hit water then exchange instead of drain.

 

[SKD]

The 2:1 diluted result was 200 and 3:1 was 270! When the builders dug the pool (Nov 2021) they didn't hit water until 5ft. But, like the No Drain idea, can discharge on 2 acres of natural landscaping. But should I treat the algae before I do the No Drain process?

Caluclations and steps for No Drain Project:

PWT = 73
FWT = 73
PWTDS = 590
FWTDS = 140
Result = -1.7

Turn pool pump off

pump (1/3 HP) out from the deep end and fill from shallow end using a bucket sitting on the tanning shelf (no skimmer on shallow end) maintain water level in pool

to drop CyA by 80% (270 to 54) drain 80% of 12,000 gal pool= 9,600 gals at 5 gal/min, process will take approx 32 hours

So close to hiring a "professional" but will give this one more try. Please let me know if any correction in course is seen/needed. Thank you both!

 

[mknauss]

No need to treat algae before exchange.

I would do a 100% exchange. You will likely get some mixing as your water temperatures are the same.

 

[Newdude]

3:1 was 270

So that's why the previous 10% to 20% drains didn't even make a dent.

But now we know, so there is that. If you aim for 100% and accidentally mix 20%, you'll land around 60 CYA (always round up) which is manageable if you have to roll with it there.

So close to hiring a "professional" but will give this one more try.

Pffffffft. You got this. We'll help.

 

[mknauss]

Your other option is to rent a high power sump pump (Home Depot normally has them) and do a quick drain and refill. Some risk. But that is what a pro would do.

 

[SKD]

Excellent! will do 100%. Thank you!

 

[SKD]

Your other option is to rent a high power sump pump (Home Depot normally has them) and do a quick drain and refill. Some risk. But that is what a pro would do.

can I run 2 sump pumps? the 1/3 HP and rent a higher power one. Risk is that the water level won't be maintained (water in slower than the 2 pumps out)?

Just stared the process today at 2PM

 

[Newdude]

can I run 2 sump pumps? the 1/3 HP and rent a higher power one. Risk is that the water level won't be maintained (water in slower than the 2 pumps out)?

You would mix too much while draining.

You either drain with speed and it takes what it takes to fill back up, or drain and fill at the flow of the garden hose from the house for little water movement during the no drain exchange process.

 

[SKD]

5 hours in rain coming in after midnight...

 

[SKD]

Going to stop the No Drain process at 9pm today, so 55 hours. First 30 were slower than anticipated so increased the time. Next steps, from the article

Startup Procedures
These rules apply for any start-up technique.​

1. turn on pump (watch for air) run for 24 hours for the first week
2.after an hour (should this be longer/shorter?) of running pump check CyA, and if acceptable range in the 50s
3. treat algae
4. once clear run full set of test and treat accordingly

Thank you!

 

[mknauss]

Brushing the pool really well with the pump running will mix it quickly. Then take your sample and run a full suite of tests.

 

[SKD]

Turned pump on (no issues), brushed walls, took sample at 10:30pm and test results are below
FC 1.0
CC 0.2
pH 8.0
TA 150
CH 380
CYA 100 (dropped 170 from 270 diluted test result, hopefully this is manageable, or can repeat No Drain process after the summer season)
CSI 0.63
Temp 76F

Treating pH with 31.45% - 20 muriatic acid 1.15 pt (friend's advice, maybe not do this? follow SLAM process first but FC is not above .5)
Add chlorine - with CyA 100 FC should be 11, add 249 oz of 6% Bleach Chlorine
There are a couple of smooth round-ish spots (this is new, never had spots) that look green and do not come off by brushing
Sequestrant - wait to see if spots still there after muriatic acid added (is this necessary?)

 

[SKD]

pool looks great, no green spots, a little cloudy but had rain yesterday & today

current readings:
FC 8.8
CC .2
pH 7.2
TA 120
CH 390
CYA 85 (neighbors pool stick says CYA is at lowest measure....)
CSI -.23
Temp 76F

since pH is 7.2 running water fall and fountains to aerate & increase pH and lower TA, however, CSI is not high
purchased Borax to increase pH but read not to add since TA is high

confirmation or correction would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

 

[mknauss]

Your pH is fine. It will come up quickly.

You can likely manage the high CYA. You get rain so do your best to harvest as much rain as possible to lower the CYA.

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[SKD]

Thank you! I add 16 oz of 12.5% liquid bleach last night at 8pm CT, readings today at 7am CT

FC = 10 and CC .2

The readings below (from previous post) were done yesterday at 6PM CT
FC 8.8
CC .2

I'll do another test tonight and not add any chemicals then test tomorrow morning to be sure chlorine is not decreasing over night, thank you again!

 

[SKD]

FC is 7.8 this morning CC .2, 1ppm from last nights reading but going to add 3 cups of 12.5% bleach this morning to be sure, should increase reading to 10ppm

Thank you and have a great Saturday!