Not the slightest clue

NO Pool store!!!!

For right now I would just get chlorine/bleach. Walmart will be your best bet right now.

I so understand the abc of pools being over your head right now.

Get your test kit in. Do one test at a time. Post the results and we will tell you what to buy and how much to add depending on your pools needs.

One step at a time.

Bleach to keep it clear.

Kim
 
I know I'm wrong, but being new it seems like its more expensive to buy bleach constantly than a 50lb bucket of chlorine tabs. Do you mind explaining why it may be cheaper and/or better? Should I still get a large bucket of chlorine tabs just to have?
 
NO, no bucket of tabs

The bucket of tabs has 50-100 pucks. each puck has a dry version of chlorine along with calcium and a stabilizer. The chlorine is the same as liquid chlorine, in a different format. The chlorine is used up and need to be be replaced, daily. The Calcium and stabilizer build up in your pool and cause issues and can only be removed by pumping water out of the pool and adding new water and new chemicals.

Liquid chlorine is the most effective, in cost and immediacy.

See this for more details http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/142-how-to-chlorinate-your-pool
 
Everything ^^^they^^^ said. I was exactly where you are a couple years ago. I was clueless. Took my water sample to Leslie's and they told me your Calcium is too high, alkalinity too high PH too high etc and said it would ONLY cost $600 to get back in shape. Left there crying because I didn't have $600. Went to pool store #2 and thought I was getting a great deal to take care of what they told me were completely different problems but would only cost me $350. took weeks and weeks to clear..luckily I found this site and I haven't plunked down that kind of $$ since.
 
Open a Photobucket account. Post pics there and then the link here. Works great and is easy to do. Thanks for the pics. That stuff doesn't look so bad to me but I am sitting on my couch.
 
I know I'm wrong, but being new it seems like its more expensive to buy bleach constantly than a 50lb bucket of chlorine tabs. Do you mind explaining why it may be cheaper and/or better? Should I still get a large bucket of chlorine tabs just to have?
At the onset, the tabs may seem to be less trouble than buying bleach or chlorine from the pool store. Initially, the biggest pain will be searching for the best price. There is a thread on this forum where people weighed in on the regional prices. It seems that Walmart and Costco are reasonable no matter where you are. Once you get a handle on the current problem and start understanding your pool's personality, dumping bleach will be the least of your worries. Then, we will let you in on other secrets.

Why is it better? You are not adding things to the pool that it doesn't need. Honestly, I find the pucks to be expensive. Walmart stopped carrying the 1lb bottle of 1"pucks that I used for my hot tub. It was $9. Now, the cheapest they carry is $20. No thanks. I can accomplish the same or better with chlorine. Hope this helps.
 

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I don't know how far along you've read in pool school yet (and you do need to take a read to get comfortable with managing your pool) but let me try to illustrate for you WHY you don't really want to use pucks instead of bleach/liquid chlorine:

#1 Reason -- Reliable and accurate sanitation:
-- Pucks add CYA, because mfgs need to "stabilize" the chlorine in order to sell it in this "convenient" format
-- SOME CYA is needed to stop sunlight from burning off all your chlorine and to buffer chlorine
--BUT research shows that the more CYA you have, the less effective chlorine is at sanitizing and staving off algae growth
-- Every time you add pucks, you're increasing your CYA -- in a single season you can add so much that you need to change the water for chlorine to work anymore
-- people who use tabs for "convenience" end up with dull, half-sanitized (or unsanitized!) water because they think they need X FC (free chlorine) but in actual fact, because the keep unwittingly adding CYA, they need Y FC. So they are consistently under-chlorinating their water, but then constantly need to "super-chlorinate" their water to fight algae.

The options to avoid un sanitized water and algae outbreaks are:

1. Use pucks and measure CYA daily, and then constantly increase your chlorine FC to match what you need for the NEW daily CYA reading

OR

2. cONTROL the scenario by adding just the right amount of CYA at the beginning of the season and then adding the right, and usually, pretty much the SAME amount of chlorine/bleach (liquid, unstabilized, without CYA) for pretty much the rest of the pool and your lives ;)

This is why folks at Trouble Free Pool have trouble free pools ;) A bit of testing, a bit of understanding the formula for success, and you're no longer having to throw darts at a problem because you're no longer having a problem. Your water is crystal clean because by following the CYA/Chlorine chart in the pool school section, you've properly maintained your pool and taken the guesswork out of the equation.

Hope that helps you understand the founding principals of the TFP way.

TFP is not strictly "anti-tab" (I use them on vacation and late in the season to bring my CYA up a bit from a season of splash out, which is the ONLY thing that removes CYA) TFP is more about understanding the impact of what you put in the pool on the water balance.

BUT in practice, as you can guess, its MUCH easier to use liquid bleach/chlorine and to KNOW your CYA level is stable than to use pucks and have a running daily change that would get you up near 100, after which it would take SO much chlorine to sanitize the water you'd be tripling your chlorine useage.
 
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