Newly installed IC40 - questions

Jump to latest Follow Reply
S

SunDevil1

0
Apr 2, 2016
22
Phoenix, AZ
I recently had an IC40 SWG installed on my pool and I have a few questions related to the install:

(If it’s relevant, below are my test readings:
FC: 3.5
pH: 7.6
Alk: 80
CH: 425
CYA: 60
salt: 3400 ppm)

1) my water is ~2 years old and had previously used the liquid chlorine method. Before I bought / added any salt for my pool I tested the salt levels and got a reading of 3400 ppm. Is this a realistic level if I’ve only ever been putting liquid chlorine and muriatic acid in the pool? For what it’s worth, the IC40 tells me my salt levels are good with the solid green light.

2. I have a Pentair variable speed pump. What is the lowest RPM I can run it at and still create chlorine?

3. My pool is 30,000 gallons. After doing research post-Install, I realize I should have sized up to a 60,000 gallon rated SWG, but hindsight is 20/20. Realistically, what can I expect with an undersized SWG unit? Any tips or tricks to keep it running ok in this scenario? Will I need to run it at a higher percentage to compensate for this?

4. The SWG is hooked up to an old school dial manual timer. Can it be left on at all times, or is it better to have it only come on when my variable speed pump kicks on?

5. Is there a best time of day to have the SWG running? Morning, afternoon, nighttime?

Thank you in advance for your help!
 
Nice to meet you via TFP :)

1) 3400 sounds a bit high relative to your other numbers, but if the SWG is happy, that's probably close to, or, right. How did you test the salt level?

2) Reduce RPM gradually to the point where the flow switch shuts off the SWG. Then choose a speed above that (probably another 100 RPM) to allow for the filter getting dirty and reducing flow.

3) you can run it 100% for 13 hours per day to produce 3 ppm FC. Then dial back either % or run time until your FC remains always above the minimum per [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

4) Set your SWG timer so it can only run when the pump is running.

5) I like to run the SWG when there's sun on the pool, but again, as long as you don't fall below the minimum, you can run it any time you like. If you run it only at night, then you'll need FC to be higher in the morning so depletion through the day, from sun and swimming, leaves FC above the minimum at sunset or end of swimming for the day.
 
SD,

Needsajt has you covered.... I'll just add a couple of comments..

I'm a little surprised your salt level is at 3400 if only using liquid choline.. I would have expected somewhere around 1000 ppm. How did you test the salt content?

The "perfect" salt level for an IC40 is 3400, but keep in mind that the green good salt level light will be on whenever the cell thinks the salt level is between 2800 and about 4500..

Most pools use between 2 and 4 ppm of FC per day... To generate the amount of chlorine (FC) you need, you will have to adjust the percentage of output and/or the pump run time.. Each pool is different and you may use more or less than the average..

As Needsjet points out you can run your cell at 100% for 13 hours, or your reduce the percent and increase your pump run time. So another option would be to run the pump 24/7 and the cell at about 55%.

Running 24/7 works great for me, but then my electrical bill is not determined by the time of day.

The amount of FC that your pool uses each day will increase as the weather gets hotter and sunnier, and decrease as the weather gets cooler.. I find I have to adjust my FC output every few weeks to keep the it where I want it...

You never want to run your cell when the pump is off...

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 


Here's a screenshot of a SWG Calculator showing how many hours and percent you'll need to run your SWG based on the FC demand of your pool. Anything green and yellow is possible to run it without going over 24 hours in a day


For credit, it was originally made by Matthew Moore and modified by me to make it more visible on what's feasible percents to run it at (obviously can't run it at over 24 hours in a day, lol)
 
Thank you for the responses! To answer the question regarded salt testing - I tested the salt content with the TF-100 salt test kit. I too was surprised by the results, but it showed me 3200-3400 on both attempts at testing the water. Not sure how so much salt got into the pool, but as long as the SWG is happy with the level I am good right?

A follow up question from the information provided above: does the SWG produce the same amount of chlorine if my VSP is set to the minimum RPM when having a green light (1200 for me) and at the maximum RPM setting (I believe 3400)? My intuition would tell me that the SWG would produce more chlorine at higher RPM levels, but please tell me if this is incorrect.

To clarify my above question, does running my pump for one hour at 3400 RPM create the same amount of chlorine as running my pump for one hour at 1200 RPM?

Thank you!
 
SunDevil1 said:
Thank you for the responses! To answer the question regarded salt testing - I tested the salt content with the TF-100 salt test kit. I too was surprised by the results, but it showed me 3200-3400 on both attempts at testing the water. Not sure how so much salt got into the pool, but as long as the SWG is happy with the level I am good right?

A follow up question from the information provided above: does the SWG produce the same amount of chlorine if my VSP is set to the minimum RPM when having a green light (1200 for me) and at the maximum RPM setting (I believe 3400)? My intuition would tell me that the SWG would produce more chlorine at higher RPM levels, but please tell me if this is incorrect.

To clarify my above question, does running my pump for one hour at 3400 RPM create the same amount of chlorine as running my pump for one hour at 1200 RPM?

Thank you!
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken, pump speed doesn't noticeably effect chlorine production as long as its fast enough to activate the flow switch. Someone with a VS pump can confirm that.
 
sd,

The salt cell is either on or off... RPM makes no difference as long as the flow light is green...

The TF-100 by itself does not test salt.. I assume your kit must also contain the Taylor K-1766 salt tester...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
sd,

Yes, exactly the same chemicals, just missing the little box that the K-1766 comes in...

It is a very accurate test.. I find it works best for me with the speed stir... It is hard for me to swirl the tube and count all at the same time... :p

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply