Newbie questions: Bleach brands, test kits, chlorine tabs

[brettl]

As I said, last night FC was 38. Today, after about an inch of rain it's 26. Obviously still high, but when I spoke with Dave, he suggested taking a sledgehammer to the algae.

Obviously that's high and I'm not planning to go into the pool at the moment anyway. But I'm surprised to see the color actually get worse and not sure how long I should be waiting to see some improvement.

 

[Butterfly]

Okay, I'm confused!

Cya went from 30 to 100?

TA went from 80 to 160?

Let's back up and regroup.

Now I'm really confused.

My test kit arrived Friday, but I started loading in the bleach Thursday night based on the levels that Dave and Jason's Pool Calculator recommended. Chlorine was basically at zero at that point.

The pool is 35,000 gal vinyl liner.

I added 10 of the 182 oz jugs Thursday night and another eight Friday morning based on Dave's suggestion. I also added some baking soda this morning to get the PH up since it appeared low.

How much baking soda did you add? Baking soda increases alkalinity.

I'm not sure how fast things should improve, but the pool looks like thicker pea soup now. I haven't added any more bleach since chlorine levels are definitely high.

I tested with the TF-100 kit last night. I'm not sure if I messed up or what because the numbers seem screwy. I haven't retested today since it's raising and thundering outside.

As of last night:

FC was at 38.

PH 7.1 or 7.2ish.

Your pH is fine for now.

ALK 160

I'm hoping this is a testing error.

Calcium 90

CYA just below the 100 mark.
I'm hoping this is a testing error.

Did I screw up? Suggestions? I'm reluctant to add anything at this point. Tempted to dump a lot of water and refill.

Thanks,

Brett

I suggest you retest and take a sample to the pool store for comparison. This could be testing error.

Did you add anything other than bleach and baking soda?

If you could post a pic of the water it would be helpful.

Post new test #'s when you get them.

 

[brettl]

The previous numbers were store test numbers. I assume any error would be on my part because it was my first time using the test kit.

As for the baking soda -- I added one 12 pound bag based on the 6.8 PH from earlier in the week. No idea why such a difference in CYA.

It's 9:30 p.m. here now, so I'll retest in the morning, take a picture, run a sample to the store and then repost.

I understand how there could be test error on my part involving the CYA. And even that the FC number could be off because of error. But I do know for certain that the chlorine levels are high after everything I dumped in, and that it doesn't look better at all.

 

[Butterfly]

Here's a sticky on "BBB" or "What are all these pool chemicals?" by Waterbear: http://www.troublefreepool.com/sticky.php?s=94

To raise pH, without raising total alkalinity, use BORAX.

To lower pH, use Muriatic Acid.

Use Baking Soda to raise total alkalinity.

Let's see what others think about your pea soup....they'll be along soon

 

[brettl]

Thanks

 

[Butterfly]

Thanks

You're welcome. Don't worry, it will all work out. Pools are hard to kill

 

[JasonLion]

Getting a good CYA number is very important. I am more inclined to believe your number over the stores number but maybe it is best if you run the CYA test again and be careful to make sure the dot completely disappears.

Algae often bleaches out and becomes a milky white color when it dies, but sometimes it stays fairly green even when it is dead. It can take the filter up to a week to clear all the dead algae from the water.

The best way to find out if the algae is dead or not is to test the FC level in the evening and again first thing in the morning. If the FC level remains the same overnight then the algae is dead. If the FC falls overnight then you need more chlorine.

 

[brettl]

If it helps, the tests I did Friday night were around 1 a.m. (don't ask ). That's when I got the higher CYA and the FC was at 36 or 38 or whatever I wrote in the earlier post. The FC 26 from today was around 5 p.m. We had some sun earlier in the day, but mostly clouds and as I said about an inch of rain.

I'll test again whenever the dogs or kids wake me in the morning.

 

[brettl]

Here's updated test results from me and the store. Nothing added to the pool in between. The only difference was about three hours between samples.

My test w/ TF-100 around 9 a.m.:

FC: 11
CC: 1
PH: 7.2
T/A: 140
CH: 140
CYA: 80

Store (Leslies):

FC: 5 (that was the highest they could test on their kit)
PH: 7.2
T/A: 100
CH: 140
CYA: 40

Only suggestion from the store was to add 31 pounds of Hardness Plus.

I took a picture as well, but can't download to this computer. Will do that later and add it.

 

[brettl]

Pool pics as promised

 

[JasonLion]

Well, no real clarification of the CYA level. I am going to assume that it is actually 80, partly because the TF Test Kit is usually right and partly because you would have lost more FC by now if it was 40.

You should maintain the FC level around 22 to 24. Measure the FC level tonight and again first thing in the morning. When it remains the same overnight you have killed all the algae. Once you have killed all the algae, it can still take the filter up to a week to clear the pool.

 

[brettl]

so basically add approx 6 gallons of bleach based on the calculator.

Correct?

 

[JasonLion]

Yes, about 6 gallons of 6% bleach.

 

[brettl]

The good news is that the levels were the same overnight. The bad is that the green color actually looks thicker. I'm hoping after adding more bleach and then brushing again that I just stirred things up.

 

[JasonLion]

Good! With all the algae dead you should turn your attention to the filter. Keep an eye on the pressure and backwash when it goes up by about 6 to 8 psi or every couple of days in any case (as long as the water looks like that). If the filter is working correctly you should see a visible improvement in the pool each day.

 

[Guest]

According to the MSDS, Clorox Commercial contains sodium hydroxide (lye). Don't use it. Stick with plain old 6% bleach. Matters not what brand as long as it contains nothing other than the sodium hypochlorite as the one active ingredient.

Craig

ALL bleach and pool store liquid chlorine contain sodium hydroxide. It's part of the manufacturing process and is needed to keep the bleach from losing strength very quickly. The only difference between the commercial and the retail regular Clorox is where it is marketed and also that the commercial does not contain sodium polyacrylate that is put into the retail as a laundry additive. (it really has little effect in your pool and this chemical is, in fact, used in some pool clairifers). BOTH are EPA approved sanitizers.

 

[Guest]

I just went and had the water tested again at the local store. The snotty guy behind the counter told me not to bother bringing in a sample if the water is green. That seemed like the most idiotic thing to say -- and I told him so -- because otherwise I wouldn't know the chlorine level.

How is he testing? If he is using a colorimeter or a colormetric test (comparing colors to a color block) then green water makes testing next to impossible and the test results are not going to be valid. Most pool stores do not use FAS-DPD testing because it is too time consuming and costly. I have told customers that I cannot give them valid test results when their water is green and just advise them to shock.
That is what you need to do anyway!

 

[Guest]

Now I'm really confused.

My test kit arrived Friday, but I started loading in the bleach Thursday night based on the levels that Dave and Jason's Pool Calculator recommended. Chlorine was basically at zero at that point.


As of last night:

FC was at 38.

PH 7.1 or 7.2ish.
It is probably lower than this. If your FC is as high as you posted then your pH is going to be reading higher than it actally is because of interference from the chlorine.
ALK 160

Calcium 90

CYA just below the 100 mark.
DO NOT TRY AND TEST CYA WHEN THE POOL IS GREEN OR CLOUDY. THE RESULTS ARE NOT VALID. This is a turbidity test (you are measuring the cloudiness of the water caused by the reaction of the reagent and the CYA in your water and your pool is already cloudy. This means it will read higher than it really is!)
Did I screw up? Suggestions? I'm reluctant to add anything at this point. Tempted to dump a lot of water and refill.

Thanks,

Brett

Just add chlorine and get your pH up a bit for now.