Newbie here! Really need simplified help! Cloudy pool.
- Thread starter georgiadawg
- Start date
With the pool covered your going to lose less FC to the sun. So 8 hrs pump runtime should be plenty.
Your PH should rise on its own due to the SWG running.
Check everything when you get back and let us know how things are.
Take a break and enjoy your vacation !?
Your PH should rise on its own due to the SWG running.
Check everything when you get back and let us know how things are.
Take a break and enjoy your vacation !?
Ok. I'm BACK from vacation! Pool readings are as follows:
FC- 13 (rose due to pool being covered and SWS on?)
CC- 0
**TA- 150
CYA- 70
Salt- 3190
PH- 7.2
**I have a question about TA test. I'm adding drops til solution turns red. Do I stop when it gets the least bit of red? Or when it's RED red? Because that affects what number I'm deciding on. Currently, I'm using RED red as my guide.
And, do I need to turn SWS off again for a while to let FC come down to 6-8? And do I still not adjust PH until FC is down?
Thanks!
**and water is still clear**
FC- 13 (rose due to pool being covered and SWS on?)
CC- 0
**TA- 150
CYA- 70
Salt- 3190
PH- 7.2
**I have a question about TA test. I'm adding drops til solution turns red. Do I stop when it gets the least bit of red? Or when it's RED red? Because that affects what number I'm deciding on. Currently, I'm using RED red as my guide.
And, do I need to turn SWS off again for a while to let FC come down to 6-8? And do I still not adjust PH until FC is down?
Thanks!
**and water is still clear**
add the drops until it stops changing color... you are shooting for the red red... and the PH will rise on its own due to SWG and TA
Ok. That answered the TA test question, but didn't really answer my other ones.
SWG off or down, then readjust when FC is where you want it.
Correct, don't bother checking/changing pH until FC is below 10.
Correct, don't bother checking/changing pH until FC is below 10.
Great job!
Yes, I would turn off the SWS until the FC drifts down to 6-8. There is no need to run it right now.
Also, you don't need to run the pH test until FC < 10. At that point, test pH and see if you need to adjust it. (The pH test loses accuracy when FC is above 10.)
Yes, I would turn off the SWS until the FC drifts down to 6-8. There is no need to run it right now.
Also, you don't need to run the pH test until FC < 10. At that point, test pH and see if you need to adjust it. (The pH test loses accuracy when FC is above 10.)
Don't worry about the TA until you get a pH reading. Dropping the TA using acid will also drop the pH, and that may not be ok to do right now. You won't know for sure until you can get an accurate pH reading.
TA is the last priority in getting the water balanced.
TA is the last priority in getting the water balanced.
Jeff, here are my latest test results:
FC-5
CC-0
PH-7.6
CH-75
TA-120
CYA-70
Salt-3190
The water has gone from crystal clear to just a tad hazy. Barely clear/cloudy, if that makes sense. Do I adjust the the TA now? Is that the problem? Putting new filters frequently. I never could get an answer from anyone on the question I posted about exactly how to figure how much Purifiber to add. Going to add salt in a minute to bring that back up to above the 3300.
FC-5
CC-0
PH-7.6
CH-75
TA-120
CYA-70
Salt-3190
The water has gone from crystal clear to just a tad hazy. Barely clear/cloudy, if that makes sense. Do I adjust the the TA now? Is that the problem? Putting new filters frequently. I never could get an answer from anyone on the question I posted about exactly how to figure how much Purifiber to add. Going to add salt in a minute to bring that back up to above the 3300.