NEWBIE - 2nd season (1st open after a winter) and haven't got to swm yet

[Salisburyr]

Hey all! This is my first post on here, asking for any and all assistance, as the pool store has not been helpful, other than getting me to buy $200+ in chemicals, only to have a pool that has milky blue water, reading 0 chlorine.

28' round above ground pool
18,500 gallons
Hayward Xtreme 1.5HP cartridge filter w/a Hayward CC1500RE cartridge

Other than the basic pool tester strips, we have solely relied on the convenience of the pool store water analysis for results.

Here are the 1st results before adding any chemicals after a long WV winter:
Sat Index - 0.1
TDS - 100
CYA - 0
Tot Chlorine - 0.9
Free Chlorine - 0.2
pH - >8.6
Tot. Alkalinity - 37
Adj Total Alk - 37
Tot Hardness - 65
Salt - n/a
Borates - not tested
Copper - 0.4
Copper from products - no
Iron - 0.3
Manganese - no
hazy - no
cloudy - yes
copper stain - none
iron stain - no
Quat - not tested
green algae - yes
swampy - no
black algae - none
mustard algae - no
slime/mold - no

-added 29 lbs balance pak 100
- add 6.25 lbs of Lo 'N Slo
- add 5.5 lbs of Stabalizer 100
- add 10.5 lbs of Balance Pak 300
- add 3 bags BurnOut 73
- add 30oz Banish
- maintain 1-3 ppm chlorine with SilkGuard sticks

Water got better, but not swimmable. Took in another sample and it was reading 0 chlorine. We were having some rain, but not a huge amount for reading 0. A reading of 0 chlorine resulting in adding 2 additional 5 lbs of BurnOut 73, for a total of 13 lbs and still reading 0 chlorine as of today.

Here are today's results:
Sat Index - 0.3
TDS - 500
CYA - 0
Tot Chlorine - 0.4
Free Chlorine - 0.2
pH - 7.1
Tot. Alkalinity - 143
Adj Total Alk - 143
Tot Hardness - 163
Salt - n/a
Borates - not tested
Copper - 0.4
Copper from products - no
Iron - 0.2
Manganese - no
hazy - no
cloudy - no
copper stain - none
iron stain - no
Quat - not tested
green algae - yes
swampy - no
black algae - none
mustard algae - no
slime/mold - no

Please help as I'm at my wits end and it's almost the end of July and I have spend $100 for 0 time in my pool. Any and all assistance is much appreciated, thanks!

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

If you have read much of this forum, you realize we do not typically utilize pool store test results for feedback. We believe in the pool owner doing their own testing such that the tests are repeatable and that the owner takes 'ownership' of their testing.
With that, we recommend you get a test kit. I use the TF100 from TFTestkits.net with a SpeedStir. Great investment.
Comparison of kits -- Pool School - Test Kits Compared

I suggest you go to Pool School (see link at top of this page) and start reading while waiting on the Test Kit.

With your size pool I would suggest adding 2 quarts of plain, unscented, non-splashless, 8.25% household bleach to the pool daily until you get test results from your own test kit.

Take care.

 

[Salisburyr]

Thanks! Unfortunately until this week, I only knew about pool store results and it seemed convenient with consistent results last summer. However, we are in the process of having a test kit shipped and need help getting a jump start. My kiddos are bummed they haven't been able to enjoy the pool and my hubby and I are to the point of regretting the purchase due to the amount of money we've thrown at it, only to be told a few days later there are no signs of the chemicals, specifically chlorine.

 

[mknauss]

I understand, but think about it, the Stabilizer 100 added 36 ppm CYA, and they are reporting 0. The SilkGuard sticks are TriChlor, they are adding CYA.

So, you need a test kit to know what level your CYA is so you can properly SLAM (Shock, Level, and Maintain) to rid your pool of algae. That is what is making your pool cloudy.

You need a FAS=DPD test to measure FC above 10 PPM as you will be SLAM at a shock level at least above 20 PPM FC.

You said you are getting a test kit shipped. Which one is it. If a Taylor K2006, typically sold through Amazon, you will need extra FAS-DPD reagents immediately as that kit is short on those that you will use a lot of to complete your SLAM.

Good Luck.

 

[AftonJeeper]

The methods taught here will save you a lot of $$$. Bleach is cheap, it costs me $8-14 a month to chlorinate my pool. The quality test kit was my biggest expense this year. Less than what the pool store charged me last time I was there for the "free testing".

 

[Salisburyr]

I understand, but think about it, the Stabilizer 100 added 36 ppm CYA, and they are reporting 0. The SilkGuard sticks are TriChlor, they are adding CYA.

So, you need a test kit to know what level your CYA is so you can properly SLAM (Shock, Level, and Maintain) to rid your pool of algae. That is what is making your pool cloudy.

You need a FAS=DPD test to measure FC above 10 PPM as you will be SLAM at a shock level at least above 20 PPM FC.

You said you are getting a test kit shipped. Which one is it. If a Taylor K2006, typically sold through Amazon, you will need extra FAS-DPD reagents immediately as that kit is short on those that you will use a lot of to complete your SLAM.

Good Luck.

When you state, order extra FAS-DPD reagents, there are a few options on Amazon...which should I get? There is a 2 oz reagent refill bottle and a 2 oz reagent refill kit with powder??

 

[mknauss]

TFTestkits.net has the FAS-DPD kit with reagent and powder.

As I have said in other posts, Amazon is not the best place to purchase specialty items. TFTestkits.net beats them in designing a kit for residential pool owners with fantastic service.

Take care.