New to this....question about Rainbow 320 chlorinator

[UnderWaterVanya]

Pics will be here soon I promise....super busy right now. Everything is up and running. I vacuumed the pool three times already...stuff keeps settling to the bottom ( I presume it's the dead algae from shocking the pool).

Are you following the Shock Process. If so I assume you consulted the Chlorine / CYA Chart and you are raising the FC to 39...

Probably not since the kit you bought isn't able to measure FC that high.

Test kit is from leslies pool...Taylor 81-330

As you probably have realized by now, that is the same basic kit as a K2005 not a K2006 - that does not have the FAS-DPD test you really need to get accurate FC/CC numbers. Without adding the kit referenced in this thread: leslies-81-330-t45905.html you will not be able to measure FC above 5 and you will not be able to measure CC's accurately. These are key to completing the shock process.

FC- 5+
The DPD test can be troublesome. The fact that you got a 5+ says it was not too much higher because it can read zero when it is very high. See this post for details on how to use dilluted water to measure up to around FC 20 - still too low for your purpose with your current CYA levels. Also note that the 1.8/7.2ml measurements are not required - you can do 2ml/8ml as long as this is mixed in a larger tube - any ratio of 1 part Pool Water to X parts Distilled Water gives the result of X+1 times the results.
Bromine - 5+
Ignore the Bromine - the same test block is used for both but with different chemicals
PH - 8.0+
When FC is => 10 you can't accurately measure pH. However the DPD test tends to bleach out at 10ppm of Chlorine so it is likely your pH is actually high. You may want to wait before adjusting this however due to the possibility that the chlorine is high enough to sway this result - and the chance that you will just end up draining the water anyway due to the high CYA.
Alkalinity - 270
That's high and consequently I suspect the pH listed is not too far off - however this is a low priority item.
CH - it's off the charts. I put 100 drops of R-0012 and it never turned blue
Read this post - check to see if you did everything right, if you did; then restest using the directions for 10ml sample size - this saves chemicals and effort on high CH water.
CYA - well over 100 (the dot disappeared at like 1/4 inch of liquid in the tube)
Redo this test - but this time use 1 part pool water and 1 parts tap water - multiple the result by 2x. If that is still below the minimum threshold - pour it back into a test tube and add another 1 part of tap water to make it a 3:1 solution. Keep doing this until you get a result that is within the range of the test > min < max. and then multiply by the total number of parts in the solution. You can keep dilluting without redoing the test and using more chemicals for several minutes.

I'll address your pictures next:

Good pictures. This helps a lot. A couple of additional shots would help. Try getting some wide shots that show everything at the pad from a couple of angles. Try getting some close up shots that allow labels on equipment to be read (filter, heater, valves, pump & pump motor) If the labels are worn off don't sweat it.

The Triton DE filter seems to be a bit odd from what I have read. I do not have one - nor a DE filter - but this site appears to have a very comprehensive description of how to clean one and what to look for to determine if the grids need replacing. Ask others here with more DE knowledge and maybe some Triton knowledge if that process is accurate before using it.

The pool control system appears to be set current for 24x7 running of the filter pump. The "filter" ON/AUTO switch needs to stay ON during your cleanup of the algae outbreak - but later you can switch it back to AUTO and using the white "tabs" on the clock face you can set on/off periods. The other switches seem pretty self-explanatory - I'm assuming that to shut off the spa you use the SPA BYPASS valve. Note that the heater is off for both spa and pool right now.

Lots of valves and pipes - I'm not sure what goes where - as you get brave and try valves and learn you'll figure out where each one goes. I assume the one automatic valve is tied to the use of the heater but I could be wrong.

First priority - Either get an accurate read on the CYA level. Depending on the result we will walk you through how to lower the levels by draining and refilling. In the meantime - try to find out how high the water table is there - this will impact how much water you can drain at any one time without risking damaging the pool.

Second priority - get a FAS-DPD test to supplement your own test kit. This is crucial if you are going to use BBB methods.

Third priority - test the fill water - using the same techniques test all EXCEPT CYA. CYA will not be in the fill water that's why dilluting the sample water makes the test able to measure higher CYA levels. Don't waste the chemicals on testing for something not there. Post the results - of particular interest is the TA and CH and to a lesser extent the pH. The Chlorine levels are not really important but I usually do this anyway just for peace of mind - I like to know the water is actually chlorinated that I drink...

Eventually we're going to want you to use the Poolcalculator.com website and learn to start determining how to adjust chemistry - but for now - let's work on just getting the basic data accurate and then make a plan on how to move ahead.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Also - I forgot to ask - what is the filter pressure with the pump ON and OFF?

 

[soupy8728]

Pool calculator recommends replacing 77% of my pool water. How do I go about doing this?

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Pool calculator recommends replacing 77% of my pool water. How do I go about doing this?

That depends. First is the reason CYA or something else? If it's CYA, keep reading - if it's something else please post what the item is and the numbers.

Next, do you know what your ground water table is relative to your pool's bottom? If the water table is higher than the bottom of the pool you run a risk if you drop the levels below this - of the pool floating! Floating a pool means that pipes are likely to break and all kinds of damage will occur. So check that level FIRST.

After you determine what the water table is, you need to include water cost models into your decision process - does your water cost include any options for either getting a discount when filling a pool - or a penalty for using over a certain amount per month? If the answer to both is no then you have a lot of options - if either of these is true then there may be some ways to "game the system" and minimize your costs.

Assuming the water table isn't too high and the water cost is not setup in a way that makes it better to work the system - then you can probably drain the full 77% at once. However - the safer way is to drain no more than will drop the shallow end to 1' depth. You can do this using a sump pump, using the main drain and shutting off the skimmer, using a skimmer with a vac hose in it; siphoning; etc. The downside to only draining to 1' in the shallow end is that you may end up wasting more water to get to the levels you want. Imagine you had a 20,000 gallon pool with a CYA of 200 and you wanted to change 75% of the water to get to a CYA of 50. You could do this with a dump of 15K gallons and a fill of the same. Or you could drop 5K gallons (25%) and refill - giving you a CYA of 150. Changing another 5K gallons (10K so far) gives a CYA of 112.5. Changing another 5K gallons (15K so far) yeilds a CYA of 84. Another 5K (20K so far) brings you to a CYA of 63. Another 5K (25K!!! so far) brings you to 47 or so.

Safe comes at a cost but if in doubt don't risk floating the pool!

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Pool calculator recommends replacing 77% of my pool water. How do I go about doing this?

Advice: Post the numbers you have to help us guide you. The last I recall you had a CYA of 100+ and you were going to retest with dilluted pool water/tap water - where did that end up?

 

[soupy8728]

I have no idea what the water table levels are or how to find out. I don't know the logistics of draining the pool, whether or not there are additional costs for using that much water or if it is even allowed. This pool does not belong to me, it's my GF's. The pool calculator was given this data as far as the recommendation for a 77% water change:

CYA - 100
CH - 1125

these numbers were tested twice and I got the same results

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

I have no idea what the water table levels are or how to find out. I don't know the logistics of draining the pool, whether or not there are additional costs for using that much water or if it is even allowed. This pool does not belong to me, it's my GF's. The pool calculator was given this data as far as the recommendation for a 77% water change:

CYA - 100
CH - 1125

these numbers were tested twice and I got the same results

Yikes - that's a high CH. The CYA test you did originally gave you a result of 100 - did you do the dilluted one (50% pool water, 50% tap water) to confirm it is actually 100? The 50/50 test would read 50 if that's true (dang - unintentionally that came out funny).

As for water table - county extention office might know. Here's an article that gives more perspective: http://www.thevillagenews.com/story/60901/ ; Reading this: http://www.mwdh2o.com/mwdh2o/pages/your ... Basins.pdf I'd say the water table isn't high - which isn't surprising given the dry inland areas adjacent to it.

As for logistics of draining - I can't recall if the filter you have has a waste setting - I remember it was DE - but other than that I'm lost. Do you have a pipe that goes to nowhere - just ends with an open end?

Siphon hose or sump pump are you next best options.

As for water costs - you'll have to call the water department and get some info.

Keep the info flowing - we'll talk you through this.

 

[soupy8728]

I don't think the filter has a waste setting, just a filter and backwash setting. When I backwash it flows out to a drain in the yard then ultimately to the street.

So can I drain it using the backwash setting? Should I rent a submersible pump from Home Depot? If I can drain it using the backwash...what's the procedure? Thanks!

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

I don't think the filter has a waste setting, just a filter and backwash setting. When I backwash it flows out to a drain in the yard then ultimately to the street.

So can I drain it using the backwash setting? Should I rent a submersible pump from Home Depot? If I can drain it using the backwash...what's the procedure? Thanks!

Sure you can - you end up washing out the DE and needing to recoat the grids but it will work just fine.

Do you have a skimmer and a main drain - I keep forgetting? If you do you need to figure out if the skimmer is tied to the main drain (there will be two holes in the skimmer bottom if this is the case - but this isn't enough of a diagnostic by itself). If it isn't and you have a main drain - shut off the skimmer and start backwashing - be aware there may be municipal restrictions on how much you are supposed to pump off (flow rate, volume etc.) If the yard could use some water and the FC is allowed to drift down to rational levels - and the salt content isn't too high - you might be able to use the water on the yard.

If there is no main drain then you might be able to attach the vac hose to the skimmer opening under the basket and drop the end of the hose in the deep end.

Remember to ask a pool company or someone about ground water levels - I know it appears you are OK - but just check before you make a huge $$$$ mistake just in case.

BTW - they make a flexible hose designed to connect to the backwash pipe to allow you to direct the water where you want. You lay it out without kinks in the direction you want the water to go and have at it.

 

[soupy8728]

Yes..there is a drain in the pool, the spa, and a line from the skimmer so there are 3 inputs to the pump. I looked in the skimmer and there are two holes in there, one I use for vacuuming. Do I need to do anything when the water level goes below the skimmer? I will check with the local government folks about pumping out the water and I have contacted the water district about re-filling so as not to go over the alotted amount (or at least to not be charged premium for it). Thanks for the help. I'm probably gonna attempt this next weekend.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Yes..there is a drain in the pool, the spa, and a line from the skimmer so there are 3 inputs to the pump. I looked in the skimmer and there are two holes in there, one I use for vacuuming. Do I need to do anything when the water level goes below the skimmer? I will check with the local government folks about pumping out the water and I have contacted the water district about re-filling so as not to go over the alotted amount (or at least to not be charged premium for it). Thanks for the help. I'm probably gonna attempt this next weekend.

If you have two open holes in the skimmer - and only one main drain and the spa - I'm lost unless there is another hole for the vac outside the skimmer.

In the bottom of the skimmer when there are two holes there is usually a device (spaceship I think I heard it called) that allows the main drain to keep sucking water even when the level falls below the skimmer. But if you also have a direct pipe from the main drain I would look on the wall near the skimmer and see if there is another suction port there - this is sometimes called an equalizer and I think it is also normally meant to be used with the spaceship attachment. In any case... if you can figure out how to shut off the spa drain, the skimmer drain(s) and leave only the main drain sucking - you're good to go. If not then maybe you can plug one of the skimmer holes (standard 1.5" threaded plug at the pool store) and add the vac hose dropped into the deep end.

Have you measured your fill water yet? It's possible that a lot of the high CH came from there. The southwest is awash in high CH water sources. Draining and refilling isn't going to help that - so you may only need a 50% drain and fill if the CH is high from your source. You should also check TA in the source water - high TA and high CH will make it hard to keep the pool from scaling - but nothing you can't handle.

 

[soupy8728]

Measured the fill water for calcium....it measured at 125ppm so the pool is obviously way too high in the calcium department.

Also, I need to have a tech come look at the pool/spa heater. I downloaded the techmanual from here and tried to troubleshoot it but I can't seem to figure it out. We have the Triton 250 heater and we are not getting any pilot light. I checked the PV voltage at the gas valve and it's good. I took off the pilot gas tube and blew through it to make sure the pilot orifice wasn't clogged....that was good. I checked the spark....that's good. I bled the gas line...getting good gas. Just no pilot light. Not sure whats going on. Maybe the gas line still has some air in it? The gas wasn't "overwhelming"...at least to me but when the GF came over there she said she could smell it. Calling a tech today.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Measured the fill water for calcium....it measured at 125ppm so the pool is obviously way too high in the calcium department.

Also, I need to have a tech come look at the pool/spa heater. I downloaded the techmanual from here and tried to troubleshoot it but I can't seem to figure it out. We have the Triton 250 heater and we are not getting any pilot light. I checked the PV voltage at the gas valve and it's good. I took off the pilot gas tube and blew through it to make sure the pilot orifice wasn't clogged....that was good. I checked the spark....that's good. I bled the gas line...getting good gas. Just no pilot light. Not sure whats going on. Maybe the gas line still has some air in it? The gas wasn't "overwhelming"...at least to me but when the GF came over there she said she could smell it. Calling a tech today.

Good plan - gas is nothing to mess around with!

-sent with Tapatalk 2

 

[soupy8728]

Ok...I hate it when something that seems so simple is kicking my butt...I took the pilot tube off again and gave it a good cleaning, not just blowing through it and voila!! I now have a pilot light and the spa is heating up nicely!! Thanks for such a great source of information on this board!!

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Ok...I hate it when something that seems so simple is kicking my butt...I took the pilot tube off again and gave it a good cleaning, not just blowing through it and voila!! I now have a pilot light and the spa is heating up nicely!! Thanks for such a great source of information on this board!!