New to SWG

[Mathews42]

Moved from Here


This was super informative. I just signed a contract with the local pool company and I was looking at alternatives to help clean the pool an keep a lower level of chlorine. My daughter has eczema that is likely brought on by here T1D. The eczema is not severe but the hope is to minimize her dry skin with frequent use in the coming summer. One question I have is by adding an Salt water generator is this the first step in converting to a salt water pool? My pool company discouraged the Salt water pool as it is harder on the auto cover, the pool decking and components in general.

 

[Newdude]

Hey Matthew and Welcome !!!

One question I have is by adding an Salt water generator is this the first step in converting to a salt water pool?

Either or. The SWG needs the *slightly* higher salinity to function and the salt needs the SWG to be broken down into chlorine. Once they're both handled, you're in business.

My pool company discouraged the Salt water pool as it is harder on the auto cover, the pool decking and components in general.

Pool companies are lacking in the chemistry department. It's all hogwash. A liquid chlorine pool adds salt with every dose (sodium hypochlorite) and it accumulates, even approaching 'salt pool' levels, which are 10% of seawater salinity. The entire argument against salt is that going from 5% to 7% of ocean salinity, allllll the way to 10%, ruins everything. It's downright silly if you thing it through.

Instead, they use salt as the easy scapegoat to excise pool quality materials that would have weathered from the moisture involved, either way.

My daughter has eczema that is likely brought on by here T1D. The eczema is not severe but the hope is to minimize her dry skin with frequent use in the coming summer

I had 3 friends with skin concerns that would only swim at my old house with salt. They loved it. Eventhough it's only a *little* closer to our body's 9k ppm salinity (give or take), many people 'feel' the difference going from 1k or 2k to 3k. Again, the ocean is 35k and an entirely different animal.

 

[Jimrahbe]

42,

Your pool company is feeding you a line of bull feathers about saltwater pools.

I have no experience with auto-covers, but saltwater pools have zero effect on pool decking and any pool equipment.

I believe that your daughter would do better in a saltwater pool.

To be clear... A saltwater pool is a chlorine pool... It just uses the salt in the water to generate the chlorine the pool needs.

The idea that a low chlorine level is better is just more bull, when you use the TFP pool care process..

I have three saltwater pools and my chlorine levels (FC) are between 6 and 9 ppm... But, it is impossible for anyone to tell what the FC level is as there is no chlorine smell, or any other indication that there is any chlorine in the water.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[dailygenesis]

Just a testimony from the liquid chlorine side -- we use LC and our levels are generally 4-8PPM using the TFP method, but there is no chlorine smell and the water feels great and most people think we're using less chlorine than what they are used to, even though we are probably using more. Also, the residual salt that is added from the LC keeps our pool in the 2000-3000PPM range of salt which makes the water feel even better, even though we don't have an SWG.

Finally, just a note that our pool builder installed the DEL AOP 40 DEL AOP-S on our pool when we built it. I didn't know anything about pools at the time so I just went with their recommendation. But I've come to believe that system adds no value. I am looking to have it removed this fall. Bottom line, you have to have the right amount of chlorine in the water to keep it sanitary whether you use LC and/or an SWG, so having a secondary system like an AOP really adds no value. The sales pitch is that it will reduce the amount of chlorine you need to have in the water, but you will find that most around this forum will strongly disagree with that assertion.

 

[Newdude]

The sales pitch is that it will reduce the amount of chlorine you need to have in the water, but you will find that most around this forum will strongly disagree with that assertion

Unless any of the secondary devices pitches a tent over the pool, the amount of UV daily loss from the sun remains constant and claiming one needs less FC is downright ignorant.

All these secindary devices are fixated on helping with the expected algae problems from following the industry methods. With TFP our only battle is with the sun, not the sun + algae.

 

[Mathews42]

Thanks for the help everyone. I've emailed my PB and opened the the dialog on moving to the Salt water pool option.

 

[wireform]

The AOP 40 is pure garbage. All it does is consume the FC before the chlorine even has a chance to sanitize. I have several pools with various models of the AOP and every single one was disconnected electrically via the fuse so basically all it is now is some extra conduit for the water to pass through without it getting affected. I can tell you first hand the water is 100% better.

 

[dailygenesis]

The AOP 40 is pure garbage. All it does is consume the FC before the chlorine even has a chance to sanitize. I have several pools with various models of the AOP and every single one was disconnected electrically via the fuse so basically all it is now is some extra conduit for the water to pass through without it getting affected. I can tell you first hand the water is 100% better.

Do you have any info on how I could disconnect mine in this way? I'm planning to get it deleted and have my system replumbed but would love to turn it off now if possible to see how it affects the water without it. I was just a little intimidated to try that myself getting into the electrical but if it's simple enough maybe I could give it a shot.

 

[dailygenesis]

The AOP 40 is pure garbage. All it does is consume the FC before the chlorine even has a chance to sanitize. I have several pools with various models of the AOP and every single one was disconnected electrically via the fuse so basically all it is now is some extra conduit for the water to pass through without it getting affected. I can tell you first hand the water is 100% better.

Oops, my apologies I just realized I said we have the AOP 40 but we have the DEL AOP-S. Still, I am interested in whether you have any advice on how I could disable it in place.

 

[wireform]

See section 3 where it discusses L1 and L2. You would need to check if the ozonator is connected via 240 volts, then determine that they are indeed hot, shut the circuit breaker feeding it and upon determining there's no power on L1 and L2 you then would disconnect the two wires and cap them off.

https://www.c-m-p.com/wp-content/up...-Instruction-Manual-4-2794-01_RevA_SCREEN.pdf