New to pool chemical math, advice?

[Antlo]

Edit: screenshot of tests posted in reply, changed volume to accurate (19.2kgal). 32x16ft
& thanks for all the information! Current plan is to purchase some bleach or pool strength chlorinating liquid depending on which is more cost effective locally. Going to stop by a recommended pool store for fun just to see what their testing spits out, but won't be purchasing any chemicals from them. Ordering the proper test kit soon to determine what actually is needed! At this point I think I will need to add CYA & plenty of chlorine while potentially raising the pH to proper levels.

I've read the information here, but still the task of balancing the chemical levels in the pool seems daunting.
~19.2kgal vinyl with sand filter in NC
I'm renting a house with a pool, and this is the first time we've opened it. The landlord paid a professional to come dump chemicals to shock the pool & to get all the equipment up and running, but after that we're supposed to handle the rest ourselves. The only thing I've added is 4 chlorine pucks in a floater that was recommended by the guy who opened the pool. It has been 5 days since opening. Water is blue but cloudy, can't see to the bottom. Still getting debris out with the vacuum.

Question is now, what are the next steps? I tested the water with test strips and one of the simple Cl/Br & pH liquid testers.
The test strip reads:
Total Chlorine: 0.5-1
Free Chlorine: 0-0.5
Total Alkalinity: 0
CYA: 0
pH: 6.2-6.8?

Liquid test reads:
Cl: 0??
pH: <6.8?

The results are hard to read, potentially having to do with the lack of chemicals in the pool if the tests are to be trusted?

Previous tenants (I'm in contact with) used to take a sample of water to Leslie's, get their printout, purchase chemicals elsewhere and do what they said. Seems like that is frowned upon here, so wondering what is recommended to proceed. I know I have a ton of learning to do, part of why we decided to get it open a little early!

 

[Antlo]

 

[pjt]

what are the next steps?

First step is to get a proper test kit. It's absolutely necessary for your success.

TF-Pro would be perfect for you.

TF-Pro

tftestkits.net

 

[Bperry]

View attachment 566952View attachment 566953

Dont waste any more money on test strips. They are pretty worthless.

 

[Antlo]

First step is to get a proper test kit. It's absolutely necessary for your success.

TF-Pro would be perfect for you.

TF-Pro

tftestkits.net

Gotcha, I've seen some of the more expensive test kits recommended here. Are these kits used in pool stores to test water samples as well? If so, I've been recommended a store that will test the levels and give an accurate print-out, just didn't want to make the drive if I can do it myself. However, if the other option is a $150 test kit, that drive suddenly seems worth it, haha.

Edit: Taylor K2005 would be sufficient, no?

 

[Antlo]

Dont waste any more money on test strips. They are pretty worthless.

Makes sense. Seemed too good to be true that they test for CYA when no other test for that cheap can.

 

[Bperry]

Gotcha, I've seen some of the more expensive test kits recommended here. Are these kits used in pool stores to test water samples as well? If so, I've been recommended a store that will test the levels and give an accurate print-out, just didn't want to make the drive if I can do it myself. However, if the other option is a $150 test kit, that drive suddenly seems worth it, haha.

The drive to the pool store will be a waste of gas. They use inaccurate equipment and have even worse advice that typically leaves you with $100+ in magic potions every time you go. And those supplies will many times make the problem worse.

 

[Antlo]

The drive to the pool store will be a waste of gas. They use inaccurate equipment and have even worse advice that typically leaves you with $100+ in magic potions every time you go. And those supplies will many times make the problem worse.

Yeah, that seems to be the sentiment here. Previous tenant is convinced this store gives legit advice and doesn't require you to buy products in-house. They left us with a bunch of chemicals on hand, I just don't want to begin adding things based on tests that might be inaccurate. I've just seen horror stories about people's CYA being too high and requiring the pool to be drained, I can't have that happening haha

 

[mknauss]

Edit: Taylor K2005 would be sufficient, no?

No. The K2006C is the Taylor kit that meets TFPC standards.
Better value is the TF100 or TFPro.

 

[Mdragger88]

Order one of the 3 @mknauss posted (they are the only ones that do all the tests you need)
& add 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day slowly infront of a running return until it comes to keep things from getting worse. Brush the area.
Use PoolMath to calculate your liquid chlorine additions.
When your kit comes do all the tests & post the results here like this

Fc
Cc
Ph
Ta
Ch
Cya

& we’ll get you going

The test kit will pay for itself in short order compared to spending $$$ on the things a pool store recommends

While you’re waiting have a look at
Pool Care Basics

 

[Antlo]

Order one of the 3 @mknauss posted (they are the only ones that do all the tests you need)
& add 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day slowly infront of a running return until it comes to keep things from getting worse. Brush the area.
Use PoolMath to calculate your liquid chlorine additions.
When your kit comes do all the tests & post the results here like this

Fc
Cc
Ph
Ta
Ch
Cya

& we’ll get you going

The test kit will pay for itself in short order compared to spending $$$ on the things a pool store recommends

While you’re waiting have a look at
Pool Care Basics

Thanks for the info! I'm very close to biting the bullet on the Taylor K2006c.

So, you recommend adding liquid chlorine (bleach, right?) daily, even though I do not have accurate testing yet? Pool was shocked on Thursday of last week, so it's been 6 days without me adding any chemical. Although, there are still floating chlorine pucks that have not disintegrated yet. I figured we needed to be adding stuff already, I just didn't want to screw anything up without proper testing.

 

[Mdragger88]

Thanks for the info! I'm very close to biting the bullet on the Taylor K2006c.

So, you recommend adding liquid chlorine (bleach, right?) daily, even though I do not have accurate testing yet? Pool was shocked on Thursday of last week, so it's been 6 days without me adding any chemical. Although, there are still floating chlorine pucks that have not disintegrated yet. I figured we needed to be adding stuff already, I just didn't want to screw anything up without proper testing.

5ppm per day is a safe amount to add - it will replace fc lost daily without risking your liner or equipment. If you’re worried about that amount you can do 3ppm per day instead.
I would remove the pucks - they are acidic & doing you no favors.

 

[Bperry]

Thanks for the info! I'm very close to biting the bullet on the Taylor K2006c.

As a newbie, the TF-100 is a better deal. If you do get the K2006C, make sure the “C” is there as its important because it has larger bottles of reagents.

 

[Antlo]

5ppm per day is a safe amount to add - it will replace fc lost daily without risking your liner or equipment. If you’re worried about that amount you can do 3ppm per day instead.
I would remove the pucks - they are acidic & doing you no favors.

Gotcha, thanks for that advice. Will add at least some bleach for now.

 

[Mdragger88]

Gotcha, thanks for that advice. Will add at least some bleach for now.

You want to use unadulterated bleach- no clorox/Cloromax technology, scents, splashless, or “fabric conditioners”-
that is sometimes a little hard to find in the household variety so using dedicated pool liquid chlorine/ “chlorinating liquid” is usually the safest bet. The dedicated pool stuff is also a higher percentage than household stuff so you can use less.

 

[KayyLo]

As a newbie, the TF-100 is a better deal. If you do get the K2006C, make sure the “C” is there as its important because it has larger bottles of reagents.

Well, darn! I ended up buying the smaller kit. I haven’t checked the cost of replacements yet.

I’m a newbie and just started testing yesterday. It’s been eye opening and the tests are pretty simple once you figure it out. This morning I tested the FC levels and it went pretty quickly since I had learned the ways. It’s expensive but so easy to ad the info into the app and get your results of what is needed.

 

[Bperry]

Well, darn! I ended up buying the smaller kit. I haven’t checked the cost of replacements yet.

I’m a newbie and just started testing yesterday. It’s been eye opening and the tests are pretty simple once you figure it out. This morning I tested the FC levels and it went pretty quickly since I had learned the ways. It’s expensive but so easy to ad the info into the app and get your results of what is needed.

You’ll need to pretty soon. The other TF kit will last a season or two.

 

[SJPoe]

Don't sweat it - but seriously - the amount of money you'll save doing it the TFP way, will more than pay for the test kit or any refils you need.

My first trip to the pool store before coming here resulted in buying $150 of stuff to 'fix' my pool chemistry, and a list of things I would need on a regular basis to 'maintain' it.

Since then, after finding TFP, I have never shocked the pool, added anything other than basic household chemicals you can buy at the grocery or hardware store, and enjoyed super clear water all season long.

Take a look through the Pool School, but in a nutshell, you test for Free Chlorine and add liquid chlorine as required to stay in the range dictated by your CYA number (which you probably only have to test for maybe once a week). Beyond that, it becomes simpler, especially in a Vinyl pool (don't really have to worry about scaling or Calcium so much). Accurate testing of the FC number is why you need to drop-test rather than the strips.

 

[Antlo]

Don't sweat it - but seriously - the amount of money you'll save doing it the TFP way, will more than pay for the test kit or any refils you need.

My first trip to the pool store before coming here resulted in buying $150 of stuff to 'fix' my pool chemistry, and a list of things I would need on a regular basis to 'maintain' it.

Since then, after finding TFP, I have never shocked the pool, added anything other than basic household chemicals you can buy at the grocery or hardware store, and enjoyed super clear water all season long.

Take a look through the Pool School, but in a nutshell, you test for Free Chlorine and add liquid chlorine as required to stay in the range dictated by your CYA number (which you probably only have to test for maybe once a week). Beyond that, it becomes simpler, especially in a Vinyl pool (don't really have to worry about scaling or Calcium so much). Accurate testing of the FC number is why you need to drop-test rather than the strips.

Thanks! I'm convinced TFP is the way. Tomorrow I'm off to grab liquid chlorine to add for now, and might stop by and let the store run my water for funsies since I do not have the expansive test kit yet, but won't be spending any money in the pool store! Luckily we were left with several boxes of chemicals like soda ash, baking soda, etc. I think the main thing I need is more chlorine and potentially to add CYA, but that is to be determined by proper testing I suppose.

 

[Antlo]

You’ll need to pretty soon. The other TF kit will last a season or two.

The difference is just how long the kit will last (amount of reagent) or does it test for different things?