New-to-me old pool, trying to figure out lights

denofa

Active member
Feb 7, 2024
30
North Carolina
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hey y'all! I'm hoping to wrap up my SLAM soon and get swimming, but that's a discussion for another thread....

I have an Intermatic pool/spa control panel, based on what I'm seeing on google it appears to be a T30404R. There are a handful of breakers in the control panel which seem to be labeled correctly. I believe a previous owner had a spa but it has since been removed.

The issue I'm having is related to the pool lighting. There are two in-pool lights and I can't seem to figure out how to operate them. Within the control panel, I have the "spa and pool lights" breaker turned on. Towards the bottom of the control panel, I have the following labeled "pool lights" but I have no idea what this or how it works:

IMG_7031.jpg


While it's very possible the bulbs have burned out, I'd like to figure out how to operate these before jumping to replacement. Does anyone recognize this and what I can troubleshoot? There is a junction box near the pool which I have not opened yet, but I'm sure that will be one of the next steps.

Thanks in advance!
 
The pool light switch is an X-10 remote switch receiver. X-10 is an obsolete power line remote control technology.

The Spa light also looks like an X-10 switch. Those two blue and red dials set a unique address code for each switch.

Replace both of them with normal switches and your lights may work. Or at least you will know the switches are not the cause of things not working.
 
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Thank you! Not sure I'd ever figured that out on my own.

Aside from turning off the breaker at the house before pulling the Intermatic cover off, is there anything else I should keep in mind with replacement? Can I use a standard lightswitch from the hardware store, or is there something Intermatic-specific I'd need?
 
Thank you! Not sure I'd ever figured that out on my own.

If you were into home automation in the 1970's you would easily recognize it.



Aside from turning off the breaker at the house before pulling the Intermatic cover off, is there anything else I should keep in mind with replacement?

Nope.

Can I use a standard lightswitch from the hardware store, or is there something Intermatic-specific I'd need?

Nothing Intermatic specific.

Use a 120V toggle switch sized for that cutout.
 
Hey y'all! I'm hoping to wrap up my SLAM soon and get swimming, but that's a discussion for another thread....

I have an Intermatic pool/spa control panel, based on what I'm seeing on google it appears to be a T30404R. There are a handful of breakers in the control panel which seem to be labeled correctly. I believe a previous owner had a spa but it has since been removed.

The issue I'm having is related to the pool lighting. There are two in-pool lights and I can't seem to figure out how to operate them. Within the control panel, I have the "spa and pool lights" breaker turned on. Towards the bottom of the control panel, I have the following labeled "pool lights" but I have no idea what this or how it works:

View attachment 566388


While it's very possible the bulbs have burned out, I'd like to figure out how to operate these before jumping to replacement. Does anyone recognize this and what I can troubleshoot? There is a junction box near the pool which I have not opened yet, but I'm sure that will be one of the next steps.

Thanks in advance!
There is a small "button" next to the larger rectangular one on the "spa" switch. It should be slid upwards so that switch acts "normally" for an X-10 "light switch." Then, a quick push of the larger button should turn the spa light on if the bulb is good, gfci not tripped, breaker on. The switch makes no sound and actually always allows a trickle of power through it, so never touch the wiring of the output of the switch or at the junction box if the breaker is on. They can't be used with LED bulbs.
At the far right on the "Pool Lights" switch is a small "button" right at the edge. That is what actuates that switch. Its a true "on-off" switch. If that switch works there will be an audible click when it is depressed. If you don't have the indoor remote, just get a couple of light switches from a hardware store and wire them in.
 
There is a small "button" next to the larger rectangular one on the "spa" switch. It should be slid upwards so that switch acts "normally" for an X-10 "light switch." Then, a quick push of the larger button should turn the spa light on if the bulb is good, gfci not tripped, breaker on. The switch makes no sound and actually always allows a trickle of power through it, so never touch the wiring of the output of the switch or at the junction box if the breaker is on. They can't be used with LED bulbs.
At the far right on the "Pool Lights" switch is a small "button" right at the edge. That is what actuates that switch. Its a true "on-off" switch. If that switch works there will be an audible click when it is depressed. If you don't have the indoor remote, just get a couple of light switches from a hardware store and wire them in.

Unfortunately did not see this before I swapped out the X10 "switch". The back of the X10 switch matches this layout, with the two wires in the neutral slots:


I installed a decorator switch on these two neutral lines with no success. I'll have to troubleshoot a bit further.
 
Assuming everything else is setup correctly and functional, if I put the X10 switch back in and push the tiny button on the right side of it, is it possible my pool lights would turn on? If there is a chance of that happening, I'll probably put the X10 back in and try it out.
 
Assuming everything else is setup correctly and functional, if I put the X10 switch back in and push the tiny button on the right side of it, is it possible my pool lights would turn on? If there is a chance of that happening, I'll probably put the X10 back in and try it out.
If the switch actually works and is installed correctly and the bulbs aren't burned out and the GFCI is working and not tripped, yes