New SWG

[lagman]

Hi All,

I'm working on getting my very first SWG up and running and have a couple of questions:

1. I've been adding pool salt one bag at a time and checking with AquaChek strips. How long should I wait before checking after adding each bag?

2. What is the minimum pool water temp that needs to be reached before the SWG will work properly? Right now, I'm at about 57 degrees F.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[Texas Splash]

How long should I wait before checking after adding each bag?

About 24 hrs

What is the minimum pool water temp that needs to be reached before the SWG will work properly?

It can vary slightly. There are exceptions, but plan on anywhere between 55 - 60 degrees.

 

[Newdude]

1. I've been adding pool salt one bag at a time and checking with AquaChek strips. How long should I wait before checking after adding each bag?

Get a K-1766 and use that instead. It's the most accurate and the other methods leave alot to be desired. It's important because if you overshoot, you're draining accordingly.

The k-1766 is $30 and is a vital yet occasional part of your new testing.

 

[woodyp]

Please adda signature line to your profile listing g all your pool specifics.

 

[lagman]

Please adda signature line to your profile listing g all your pool specifics.

This is the current one as can be seen in my first post. Is this not sufficient?

 

[Texas Splash]

This is the current one as can be seen in my first post. Is this not sufficient?

You might add which test kit(s) you use as well.

 

[woodyp]

For some reason it didn't appear to me on my phone when I posted. Thanks!

 

[lagman]

One more question: The manual for my SWG suggests adding cyanuric acid. Is this recommended?

 

[Texas Splash]

The manual for my SWG suggests adding cyanuric acid. Is this recommended?

The SWG's for salt pools tend to operate more effectively with a higher CYA level than non-salt pools. Before you increase the CYA though, be sure to perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test if you haven't done so already to ensure you have no algae. Once you know you are algae-free, then you can increase the CYA with stabilizer. Since you are just opening up, you might do well with a starting CYA around 50-60, but in the summer you may see better results with a CYA of about 70 to protect the FC created by your SWG.

If you have any questions let us know.

 

[Texas Splash]

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After soaking for about 20-30 minutes, squeeze the sock often to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[Newdude]

Yes. Target range for SWG is 60 to 90, climate depending. You'll be fine on the lower end being up north.

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before adding significant CYA. SLAM FC is 40% of the CYA so you'd rather find out before and SLAM at 12 or 16 FC than 28.

Once your proven free of organics, hang granular CYA in a sock, carrot on a stick like in front of a return. Any brand is fine so long as it's 100% Cyanuric Acid on the bag. Come back later and it'll squeeze out. I walk away for a full day but you can sit there messing with it if you prefer. Liquid CYA is tricky because the bulk of the goods is sludge at the bottom of the jug and its nearly impossible to get accurate doses unless you use the whole jug. It's also spendy.

 

[Newdude]

Dang @Texas Splash you just double barrel Marty'd me. Bravo.

 

[lagman]

The SWG's for salt pools tend to operate more effectively with a higher CYA level than non-salt pools. Before you increase the CYA though, be sure to perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test if you haven't done so already to ensure you have no algae. Once you know you are algae-free, then you can increase the CYA with stabilizer. Since you are just opening up, you might do well with a starting CYA around 50-60, but in the summer you may see better results with a CYA of about 70 to protect the FC created by your SWG.

If you have any questions let us know.

Thanks! Can you please describe the chlorene loss test? The link didn't work for me.

 

[Texas Splash]

Basically you ensure you have a good FC of about 5-6 pm before bed. Personally I like to leave the pump running on low speed overnight. If you turn it off, make sure to turn it back on at least 30 minutes before grabbing the morning water sample. The SWG should have been off for at least 30 min prior to that final nighttime FC test. The in the morning, before the sun hits the water, test the FC again. If you lost no more than 1 ppm of FC overnight, you passed. If you lost more than 1 ppm of FC overnight, then the OCLT failed and you should go right into a SLAM Process.

 

[Texas Splash]

Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.

www.troublefreepool.com

To perform the overnight FC loss test:

If you have an SWG, tablet chlorinator, or other chlorine feeder, shut it off completely.
After the sun goes down, and at least 30 minutes after your last chemical addition of the day, test your water for FC using the FAS-DPD test making sure your FC level is at least above 3ppm.
Record that result. Do not put any more chlorine in your pool.
If the OCLT is in conjunction with a SLAM, the pump should already be running 24/7/. If performing the OCLT independently as a diagnostic test, it is vital the pump be running at least 30 minutes before the grabbing the nighttime and morning water samples for testing in order to ensure the water is properly mixed.
The next morning, as early as practical and definitely before there is any direct sunlight on the pool, perform the FAS-DPD FC test again and record the results.
If your FC level remained the same, or went down by 1.0 or less, the water is clean. There isn’t any living algae or other organic contamination in the pool.

If you lost more than 1.0 ppm of FC, then there is something in the water that needs to be removed and you should SLAM, or continue SLAMing, the pool.

 

[lagman]

Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.

www.troublefreepool.com

To perform the overnight FC loss test:

If you have an SWG, tablet chlorinator, or other chlorine feeder, shut it off completely.
After the sun goes down, and at least 30 minutes after your last chemical addition of the day, test your water for FC using the FAS-DPD test making sure your FC level is at least above 3ppm.
Record that result. Do not put any more chlorine in your pool.
If the OCLT is in conjunction with a SLAM, the pump should already be running 24/7/. If performing the OCLT independently as a diagnostic test, it is vital the pump be running at least 30 minutes before the grabbing the nighttime and morning water samples for testing in order to ensure the water is properly mixed.
The next morning, as early as practical and definitely before there is any direct sunlight on the pool, perform the FAS-DPD FC test again and record the results.
If your FC level remained the same, or went down by 1.0 or less, the water is clean. There isn’t any living algae or other organic contamination in the pool.

If you lost more than 1.0 ppm of FC, then there is something in the water that needs to be removed and you should SLAM, or continue SLAMing, the pool.

Just curious, what happens if you fail the overnight test but add the CYA anyway?

 

[woodyp]

Just curious, what happens if you fail the overnight test but add the CYA anyway?

The higher the CYA Level.....the higher the SLAM FC level.

 

[Newdude]

The faster burnoff of the higher FC gets real noticeable in the 20s. And with $5+ jugs, donating them to the sun and not the SLAM gets old quick.

If you have a problem down the roaf once the FC is higher, it is what it is. But it's wise to rule out a problem before raising the CYA.