New small pool, Ph reality check please

Jump to latest Follow Reply
S

Stogaguy

New member
Dec 31, 2023
3
Calistoga, CA
Pool Size
6400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
New to managing a pool and looking for a reality check on my chemistry. Specifically, the propensity for the Ph to drift up with new pebble tech. The pool small, 6.4K gallons (12'x20') and first filled at the beginning of December. Testing shows the Ph drifting up quickly. It will move from 7.5 to over 8 in a matter of a couple of days. This has me adding acid several times a week. My goal is to keep the Ph around 7.5 as this is the middle of the range recommended by the heater manufacturer. I have looked through the startup articles here at TFP and various forum threads on the subject. My questions as follows:

1. Is there anything about what I report that is atypical?

2. My assumption is that the speed of the Ph rise is related to the small size of the pool. Is this correct?

3. Is there anything I should be doing in addition to monitoring the chemistry and adjusting as recommended in the TFP app?

Most recent test results:
FC: 2
Ph: 7.5 (after acid addition)
TA: 75
CH: 300
CYA: 30
Temp: 69

Thank you in advance for your help.
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: First question back to you since I don't see it in your signature - what test kit are you using? Knowing that helps us sleep better at night. :) Also, this is an outdoor pool correct?

As to your questions:

1. Nothing really atypical. Make sure you have no sources of aeration (spillover, bubbler, etc) that could explain an increase in pH. Your plaster may still be curing as well which would explain the rise. Finally, you can allow the TA to fall a bit more. Let it fall down to about 50-60 and see if that helps. Continue to use the PoolMath APP which will monitor your CSI level to ensure the water is not too aggressive for the plaster. Most often our pools seem to like a pH around 7.7-7.8 anyways, but if the TA and CH are controlled, it's okay.

2 - No. All shapes and sizes struggle with pH from time to time.

3 - Other than item 1 above, watch your FC. It's a bit low (algae). Always refer to our FC/CYA Levels to be safe.

Hope that helps.
 
Texas Splash said:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: First question back to you since I don't see it in your signature - what test kit are you using? Knowing that helps us sleep better at night. :) Also, this is an outdoor pool correct?

As to your questions:

1. Nothing really atypical. Make sure you have no sources of aeration (spillover, bubbler, etc) that could explain an increase in pH. Your plaster may still be curing as well which would explain the rise. Finally, you can allow the TA to fall a bit more. Let it fall down to about 50-60 and see if that helps. Continue to use the PoolMath APP which will monitor your CSI level to ensure the water is not too aggressive for the plaster. Most often our pools seem to like a pH around 7.7-7.8 anyways, but if the TA and CH are controlled, it's okay.

2 - No. All shapes and sizes struggle with pH from time to time.

3 - Other than item 1 above, watch your FC. It's a bit low (algae). Always refer to our FC/CYA Levels to be safe.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply and addtional info. Tryly appreciated.

Using the TF-Pro test kit. The contractor left me with test strips but I quickly became frustrated with the difficulty of reading these and the suspect nature of the data they provided.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas Splash
Stogaguy said:
Most recent test results:
FC: 2
Ph: 7.5 (after acid addition)
TA: 75
CH: 300
CYA: 30
Temp: 69
Click to expand...
Since you didn't list Salt I'm assuming you don't have a SWCG. With a CYA of 30 and FC at 2 ppm your FC is at a critical low as your target should be 4-6 ppm.

Using your numbers above Pool Math shows a CSI of -0.27. If all numbers stay the same and pH drifts up to 7.8 you're still at a good CSI of 0.03.
 
cwswifty said:
Since you didn't list Salt I'm assuming you don't have a SWCG. With a CYA of 30 and FC at 2 ppm your FC is at a critical low as your target should be 4-6 ppm.

Using your numbers above Pool Math shows a CSI of -0.27. If all numbers stay the same and pH drifts up to 7.8 you're still at a good CSI of 0.03.
Click to expand...
Regarding FC, I have a Jandy TruGaurd Ionic Mineral Sanitizer. According to my pool contractor, this reduces the required FC to 1-3ppm. Interested hearing some perspectives on this.

Regarding Ph, I have a Pentair Ultratemp 140 heat pump. The manual recommends the maintaining a Ph of 7.4-7.6. This is lower than the TFP app's recommended 7.6-7.8 "ideal" range. Also interested in hearing some perspectives on this as well.

In response to a previously unanswered questions:
Yes, this is an outdoor pool.​
Chlorination via a CMP Powerclean Ultra VS Erosion Chlorinator​
I have updated my signature accordingly.

Thank you in advance for the help.
 
Last edited:
Stogaguy said:
Regarding FC, I have a Jandy TruGaurd Ionic Mineral Sanitizer. According to my pool contractor, this reduces the required FC to 1-3ppm. Interested hearing some perspectives on this.

Regarding Ph, I have a Pentair Ultratemp 140 heat pump. The manual recommends the maintaining a Ph of 7.4-7.6. This is lower than the TFP app's recommended 7.6-7.8 "ideal" range. Also interested in hearing some perspectives on this as well.
Click to expand...
Ah OK. We had better wait for the real experts because I don't have any experience with mineral sanitizers. Also, as far as the pH for the heat pump, I thought if the CSI was good they should be fine. Let's see what the masters have to offer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply