New pump motor installed - ran for 10 seconds, made a pop sound then started smoking...

Jump to latest Follow Reply
IcecreamMA

IcecreamMA

Member
Jun 19, 2020
12
FL
New pool pump motor was installed, it was started up, ran for a few seconds then started smoking. After this first startup, there was spilled clear oil inside the back cover near the capacitor.
The motor will turn on and run for 5-10 seconds, then make a click sound and turn off. It's not tripping the circuit breaker. Nothing appears to be burnt around the wiring in the back panel. It's ran for less the 30 seconds in total.

The reason for the new motor is the last one burnt up last week after a particularly bad thunderstorm (for what it's worth).
It was 6 years old. It too made a loud pop, smoked and then fire literally started coming out of the bottom of it.
With this brand new one popping and smoking as well... could it be the wiring? Or was the capacitor bad on my new motor?

The motor is an identical replacement of the old one, so the specs are definitely correct.
It's wired correctly as it's just two hots and a ground. The pump is a Max-E Pro.

Could it have to do with the start switch? The metal piece that holds the springs seems off center relative to the prongs.
Any insight is appreciated!
 
Last edited:
IcecreamMA said:
I recently replaced the motor on my pool pump. When it was started up, it ran for a few seconds then I heard a pop and it started smoking. I took the back cover off turned it on again, smoke came from the capacitor and it turned itself off after a few seconds.

After this first startup, there was spilled clear oil inside the back cover near the capacitor.
The motor will turn on and run for 5-10 seconds, then make a click sound and turn off. It's not tripping the circuit breaker.
Nothing appears to be burnt around the wiring on the back, but the motor housing felt really hot for having ran less then 30 seconds total.

The reason for the new motor is the last one burnt up last week after a particularly bad thunderstorm (for what it's worth).
It was 6 years old. It too made a loud pop, smoked and then fire literally started coming out of the bottom of it.
With this brand new one popping and smoking as well... could it be the wiring? Or was the capacitor bad on my new motor?

The motor is a Century USQ1202. It's a identical replacement of the old one, so the specs are correct.
I can't see how I could have messed up the wiring, as it's just two hots and a ground. The pump is a Max-e.

Could it have to do with the start switch? The metal piece that holds the springs seems bent and I had to put it back in place
Any insight is appreciated!
Click to expand...
Damaged centrifugal switch will not open the start contacts and blow the start capacitor. Switch is often damaged when the impeller is installed if a 7/16" wrench isn't used to hold the shaft but it is held with something else. Have only seen 1 or 2 bad from the factory.
 
  • Like
Reactions: IcecreamMA
IcecreamMA said:
The reason for the new motor is the last one burnt up last week after a particularly bad thunderstorm (for what it's worth).
It was 6 years old. It too made a loud pop, smoked and then fire literally started coming out of the bottom of it.
With this brand new one popping and smoking as well... could it be the wiring?
Click to expand...
This is what’s concerning. It may not be related to the pump/motor at all.
 
  • Like
Reactions: IcecreamMA
Just to put a bow on this - it ended up being a bad starting capacitor (or switch) on the new motor. The electrical box and lines were checked and everything was normal. The motor was replaced with another of the exact same motor and it works fine.

I believe the centrifugal switch on the first motor I got shipped was defective / out of place which caused the starting cap to go out immediately.
As @1poolman1 mentioned, I can see how the switch can get damaged if you try to wedge something in there like quite a few amateur youtube videos show. I've seen dudes on some of these videos just ram screwdriver's inside, which seems like you're just asking to get the switch bent.
But for this install the cap was removed to make room and the correct 7/16 (or was it 1/2) was used to properly hold the shaft in place.

The pool is up and running now after 2 weeks... so that's good!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Kaylee34 and JamesW
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply