New Pool, Several Questions

[LynnOnTheWeb]

DOCTOPUS!!!!!

AKA, In Floor Cleaner Multiport Valve. I like doctopus so much better though!

--Jeff

Haha I got that term from my kids. They call my multi-port usb charger (one with many usb ports for your phone, iPad, other nifty devices) the doctopus. It’s kind of stuck and in my mind that’s the pool version. Plus I had no idea what it was called.

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

Air blower will go to the spa.

I added (horribly) the automated valves on the suction and return lines. Realistically you should be able to close off the 2 way valve on the spa makeup line, and you should be able to program your spillway to activate a couple times a day to keep the water in the spa changed out.

You should avoid using the chlorinator and primarily use liquid chlorine (which you said you are using primarily now). When you add the SWCG, you should try to fit that in the return line after the heater, and upstream of the automated return valve, that way you can send chlorinated water to either the pool or the spa, from the SWCG.


View attachment 487798


--Jeff

Ah of course. Air blower on the spa, that makes sense. We don’t use it because there is something weird going on with that too. That will be a later post.

I was thinking the SWG would replace the chlorinator, so go in that spot. Would you leave the chlorinator? I didn’t have one put in this pool because it couldn’t keep up with 94° water in our Texas summers in our last pool but I’m already regretting it on this one. I’ve read that I need to oversize it, so hopefully that will solve the problem.

 

[reggiehammond]

Absolutely ditch the chlorinator for the SWCG. Aim for 2-3x your pool size when purchasing.

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

Absolutely ditch the chlorinator for the SWCG. Aim for 2-3x your pool size when purchasing.

That’s on the short list. If I don’t get it installed soon I’m going to go broke from the price of chlorine in about 2 weeks when we move from “Almost Summer” to “heck’s Front Porch.”

 

[Turbo1Ton]

I was thinking the SWG would replace the chlorinator, so go in that spot. Would you leave the chlorinator? I didn’t have one put in this pool because it couldn’t keep up with 94° water in our Texas summers in our last pool but I’m already regretting it on this one. I’ve read that I need to oversize it, so hopefully that will solve the problem.

As Reggie mentioned, ditch the chlorinator. It does nothing but cause problems with highly concentrated acidic water. My personal preference would be to have the SWCG before the automated spa/pool return valve, and not in place of the chlorinator because you will not be able to send chlorinated water to the spa, except through the makeup line that is currently after the chlorinator. As I mentioned before, leaving that makeup line turned on all the time will cause excessive pH rise. Your in-floor system will cause the spa to overflow enough as it is, when it is running. And that may be enough to keep the chlorinated water in the spa (it is for mine), so maybe I'm overthinking the SWCG location.

Maybe one of the other equipment minded folks will jump in with some thoughts as well.

I think the SWCG would fit in either location. So I think you are safe either way.

The other thing you should really consider is removing the UV system. The UV does nothing to actually sanitize your pool, and actually removes some of the chlorine you are trying to keep in there. Here is some more reading you can do on it. UV Systems - Further Reading

At a minimum, just don't replace the bulb when it goes bad. Oh yeah, you have no idea when it goes bad because you can't test it to see when your UV production is too low.

I bought into the UV/Ozone thing when I had my pool built. My PB didn't push them but just had them as an option and I didn't do enough research ahead of time, and went for it. In the grand scheme of things, it was chump change, but still would have been nice to not have had to remove them from the plumbing setup myself.

--Jeff

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

As Reggie mentioned, ditch the chlorinator. It does nothing but cause problems with highly concentrated acidic water. My personal preference would be to have the SWCG before the automated spa/pool return valve, and not in place of the chlorinator because you will not be able to send chlorinated water to the spa, except through the makeup line that is currently after the chlorinator. As I mentioned before, leaving that makeup line turned on all the time will cause excessive pH rise. Your in-floor system will cause the spa to overflow enough as it is, when it is running. And that may be enough to keep the chlorinated water in the spa (it is for mine), so maybe I'm overthinking the SWCG location.

Maybe one of the other equipment minded folks will jump in with some thoughts as well.

I think the SWCG would fit in either location. So I think you are safe either way.

The other thing you should really consider is removing the UV system. The UV does nothing to actually sanitize your pool, and actually removes some of the chlorine you are trying to keep in there. Here is some more reading you can do on it. UV Systems - Further Reading

At a minimum, just don't replace the bulb when it goes bad. Oh yeah, you have no idea when it goes bad because you can't test it to see when your UV production is too low.

I bought into the UV/Ozone thing when I had my pool built. My PB didn't push them but just had them as an option and I didn't do enough research ahead of time, and went for it. In the grand scheme of things, it was chump change, but still would have been nice to not have had to remove them from the plumbing setup myself.

--Jeff

Thanks for the link on the UV System. I’ll read up.

You’re thinking here for the SWCG?

 

[Turbo1Ton]

You’re thinking here for the SWCG?

That's where I would try to fit it in. This way you can send chlorinated water to either the pool or the spa.

I don't know enough about the Jandy salt cells, but make sure that you read and understand the installation instructions, just in case the installer does not. We've seen many 'professionally' installed cells that were not installed correctly.

And at the same time they are installing the SWCG they can remove the chlorinator. If you ever have a need to use tablets, you can always get a chlorine floater to put them in.

--Jeff

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

That's where I would try to fit it in. This way you can send chlorinated water to either the pool or the spa.

I don't know enough about the Jandy salt cells, but make sure that you read and understand the installation instructions, just in case the installer does not. We've seen many 'professionally' installed cells that were not installed correctly.

And at the same time they are installing the SWCG they can remove the chlorinator. If you ever have a need to use tablets, you can always get a chlorine floater to put them in.

--Jeff

Agreed. I likely won’t use tablets after the SWCG is installed.

After this pool fiasco I will absolutely have a full understanding of how the SWCG is supposed to be installed and be watching over their shoulder.

 

[newdude]

That’s on the short list.

Want a friendly push ?

1 gallon of 10% gives you 6.2FC in 16k gallons.

$5 jug = $0.80 per FC
$6 jug = $0.96 pet FC
$7 jug = $1.12 per FC

Today the Circupool RJ45, Aquapure 1400 plc and Pentair IC40 all are $1500. (Cell + Controller). For a DIY install, add $500 in parts / electric for $2000. For a professional install, double the unit cost to $3000.

Using the middle producing IC40, that's 4167 lifetime FC.

DIY install $0.47 per FC
PB install $0.71 per FC

The controllers should last 3 cells or more, and the next 2 replacement cells will only be $1050 for a 10 minute easy swap anyone can DIY blindfolded. The replacement cells will produce at $0.25 per FC.

If we average 3 cells, the controller and a full professional install, the IC40(s) will cost you $0.40 per FC. That's exactly half of the $5 jugs that you would be hard pressed to find. Walmart has been the cheapest at $5.67 and it's hit or miss for alot of of us.

3 pentair IC40 cells is the equivalent of *2016* jugs you won't have to lug. TWO THOUSAND SIX TEEN.

 

[reggiehammond]

Want a friendly push ?

1 gallon of 10% gives you 6.2FC in 16k gallons.

$5 jug = $0.80 per FC
$6 jug = $0.96 pet FC
$7 jug = $1.12 per FC

Today the Circupool RJ45, Aquapure 1400 plc and Pentair IC40 all are $1500. (Cell + Controller). For a DIY install, add $500 in parts / electric for $2000. For a professional install, double the unit cost to $3000.

Using the middle producing IC40, that's 4167 lifetime FC.

DIY install $0.47 per FC
PB install $0.71 per FC

The controllers should last 3 cells or more, and the next 2 replacement cells will only be $1050 for a 10 minute easy swap anyone can DIY blindfolded. The replacement cells will produce at $0.25 per FC.

If we average 3 cells, the controller and a full professional install, the IC40(s) will cost you $0.40 per FC. That's exactly half of the $5 jugs that you would be hard pressed to find. Walmart has been the cheapest at $5.67 and it's hit or miss for alot of of us.

3 pentair IC40 cells is the equivalent of *2016* jugs you won't have to lug. TWO THOUSAND SIX TEEN.

Today, at Home Depot: "Only $10!"

 

[newdude]

Today, at Home Depot: "Only $10!"

Yeah. This season (so far), HDX chlorinating liquid has pretty much been for emergency purposes only at that price. I didn't want to run those #s to make the comparison look unbiased towards liquid chlorine.

But since you brought it up, not me, that's $1.61 per FC in 16k gallons.

Heck. I'll buy anyones gol darn SWG at that price and we can split the savings.

 

[reggiehammond]

It's insane - the price is higher every time I stop by.
I don't buy it (Walmart is $5.40 FYI to anyone looking), but I enjoy the smug satisfaction of keeping track of how much money my SWCG is saving me!

 

[CraigChing]

Menards where we live is still 3.99 for 12.5% … as long as you remember to send in those receipts for the rebate!

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

Thanks for the push guys, I’ve done the rough math but never in that detail. Mind blowing. I’m on it, some of the other issues on my list have just taken priority. Maybe I’ll put a card on my home automation dashboard with “dollars saved to date” just for giggles.

I am looking at the DIY install route. As long as I can find good instructions and information (like exactly where to put in in the pump flow as we’ve been discussing above).

I’ve been reading up on the systems and see a lot about the CircuPool, but I wonder if part of its charm is the easy DIY install side of it. I had the Aquapure 1400 (a 2006 model) on my old pool. Brand-wise I assume I want to stay in the Jandy ecosystem since I’ve got the iAqualink system, right?

 

[newdude]

Brand-wise I assume I want to stay in the Jandy ecosystem since I’ve got the iAqualink system, right?

Yes. Sorry, it wasn't in your signature. The aquapure 1400 PLC puts out 1.25 lbs a day to the IC40s 1.4 lbs / 24 hours. It's only .6 FC difference per day and won't change the maths much. 9.4 or 10 FC a day is plenty either way.

 

[LynnOnTheWeb]

Yes. Sorry, it wasn't in your signature. The aquapure 1400 PLC puts out 1.25 lbs a day to the IC40s 1.4 lbs / 24 hours. It's only .6 FC difference per day and won't change the maths much. 9.4 or 10 FC a day is plenty either way.

Hint taken. Fixed.